SW Lures

Oh yeah, don't watch the cutter! Lol Watch the stylus mostly. Also I'm going to put a guard around the cutter. I grip it away from the working end and never adjust during the cutting/shaping unless cutting it off....but you know how that is. Dale

For the life of me I couldn't remember stylus!! As much as I have said it in the past. I have different shapes that matches the different bits/cutters I have. Some I made, some a friend did in his machine shop. What you can do is get the general shape then switch bits and stylus to a more detail cut inside the work piece or around the piece. This includes baits. You must get more light handed and slow down while doing this. Dale

Now that's about it Mr Hopkins. Really don't think it gets much better. Is that duct work tape? Very nice Dale

Yep I saw that one Mark actually a different but similar when I started making mine. The one I made is very similar to another one. This one can do detail and semi flat profiles plus baits. If I remove the clamping system for baits, I can set up for other work with different (monted) type of clamps. It's not limited other then size. I can reproduce unique round or oval picture frames for example, in one piece. I have another tool plate that I can put in a high speed router. Dale

Yes Glider, it is very important that the holding board does not move and everything is square. I did turn the end around once. You just see the original rectangle shape. Didn't do it again. You can do one side in a minute or two, flip it over and your finish. Lay it to the side, after you get through cutting/shaping the baits out you just trim off the ends and clean them up. If I go back to using it for baits again I'll put spacers in there to shorten up the wood. Also I may tack glue sand paper to hold a little bit better. I haven't had trouble with movement, just to make sure. That master was the first bait I made. Once I got the bib/lip and balance right it turned out to be a great lure.

Just the amount that I have done of it. I see what you are saying Hughesy. Plastic is the only thing I have used it on. Some types of paint (manufactures) doesn’t come off as easy either. What clear was on the old baits that I have done must not have been there at all or hardly none. It was you I believe that turned me on to using it in a post you made. I’ve never damage the detail of a lure yet. I only use pressures that gets the paint off, no more. Next time I may just try the whole lure out “of mine”, not someone else’s. LOL

Thank you Azsouth. I have very little time to enjoy working in it now a days. When I do I make it worth it. Someday I may have more time? Thanks again,

First off I’m not no expert on posting media and new to Photo Bucket. Bare with me here. Ihttp:// This the side view of the duplicator. http:// Another side view http:// This my bait tree, prior to painting or after. http:// This is a look at a master and where a copy will be done. http:// This a view of the rail system. http:// This is a front view of the duplicator. http:// I wanted to show my turner. Heated, sealed and filtered. http:// The inside of it. http:// My band saw. http:// My project at the moment...a mess!! While I’m at it, here is what I told y’all about patterns to cut out. This has a thru wire in it. I do it differently now. http:// I also talked about changes and color and splattering effect here’s what I have taught my Grand. This is her painting, not mine. She’s BETTER! LOL http:// And another, http:// Ok thats my story and Im sticking to it!!

Nope Ben there is not!!!!!

A few months ago the people here tried all types of chemicals and techniques to remove paints. Nothing totally worked, different outcomes happened. I guess that it was the paint type, plastic used to make the baits, etc. As BobP stated it's not the way, unless you find something we hadn't tried. I use backing soda for things like this to get into small areas. Sanding with very light grit (240-400+) is my preferred method then complete with the blasting. I don't do this very often at all, but this does work for me. The blaster I use is for other things in the shop mostly.

Ok, since I did build one (duplicator). I know I could build one and thought it would be something I could use for more then baits, which I have. It took me about 72 hrs. of work. Kinda not sure of the real time because I was designing and building a turner box (heated, filtered). I had pipe, wood, skate board (figure that one out), aluminum stock, hinges, screws, bolts, routers, grinders, bits, etc. I saw one being made on YouTube. I added in some bells and whistles. I thought about the duplicator holding up over time and how versatile could it be. So I designed it that way. Its not a 1000.00 mechine, but for the buck I'll put it against any of them. It is a single item duplicator, because of other uses. Other words you have a clamping board that holds your master on one side and your working piece on the other. A follower (can't remember the correct name) over the master and a router over you working piece. Routing bits are bought according to the contour of the master. It takes about 5-10 minutes to duplicate a normal size bait (2-4").....really not much more time for a 8-12" bait. Saw off the excess wood. 80 grit sandpaper, some 200 +/- grid and your there. Detail work would be done at this point, gill plate, etc. or you can cut them in with the duplicator. It is for speed to me, but as you do sometimes in life you realize that's not as important as you thought. In a day-8 hrs. I can probably cut, sand and be ready to seal about 30-40 baits depending, maybe more. Con's, wasted wood (clamping ends) baits are no better then the master, not as satisfying to me. I'm here till...if you have any questions. I tell you what...I was going to send some pic's to V-Man, I'll post in another thread tomorrow morning.....Dearest want my audience at supper somewhere and now!!!! Hope no typos. As Ben would state, just my

It is probably speeding up, as the group start completing different parts of the program. I have some years to..... I may be seeing things to.

Someone turned me on to leaf/foil. I believe it was you Travis. I like using leaf with candy type colors. My clear coat over Wicked colors does very well. I'm am very happy with this technique. I'm still learning new ways of getting different schemes. Once confident with doing this I'm going to try some left over real gold leaf that I have left from a consignment that did some time ago, nothing but a "show and tell" bait. Its going on a desk.

I'll get some pic's today with some close ups and get it to you Dave. I'm a type that makes things work with what's at hand. You'll see what I mean. The duplicator does great but when the wood is in the clamps, some wood is wasted. I have just gotten to a point of likeing to shape by hand??? Just like it. While doing it buddy I'll give you a tour. I also like being a "McGyver" type.

Dave I don't think you need this but if you want a pic of my duplicator I'll sent it in a pm. I don't usually post many pics because photo bucket, me and the posting site just get along. But if you do I'll show you. Works pretty well. Made from scrape parts and wood. Cost me 20 bucks and that mainly was for the legs and frame, I had everything or found what I wanted. There are some detail cuts and drill locations and how I got around something's of using wood.

Has anybody said anything about the "notification" box? When I first open it I can't read the notification topic name. The area is black and the type is barely noticeable. Once I open a topic by guessing where the wording is, it's white and the type is black which makes it readable when I go back. Keep it cool Curt, sounds a tad bit of frustration. We're good and yapping. Dale

To get lines, unique colors and multi color schemes you can dip. I just finish some jigs with a white first coat then tried a orange. This turned out as a rose color tan. It seems you want what I call a dusting look of the colors. To get this you are going to have to tap our spray. Even spraying has a technique of doing it, air pressure distance and the size of the paint particles makes a difference. The liquid I have never tried. The thin stiffer brushes will give a more smaller and somewhat concentrated area of paint. A wide fluffy brush will give you a dusted look with the right amount on the brush. A ladies "blush" brush does some interesting patterns. Yeah I know......I stole one from my wife and modified it a bit...shhhhh. Try different ways, you would be surprised. Take care,

I got to agree with Travis. As far as taking time, anything like this has a tendency to take time. It's all good.

When I started desgning a particular bait for trolling. It is shape similar to a shad and 3.25" long and slab shape. I put a angled tombstone lip at 2" from the nose of the bait. It spung like crazy as Bob stated. I took off 3/8", took away the angle and rounded the front edge. The bait stop spining and had a aggressive wiggle. Being new to making lures I thought the length and width would get the depth I wanted. This is not true after designing more then 18 baits and well above a hundred baits, more towards two hundered. I'm not as experience as most here, but have learnt what makes a bait tick. There is so many things that gets a hard bait to do what you want. Shape of bait (including length, side shape, height, symmetry, etc), dive angle (which includes ballast and location of it), tow eye location, lip/bib location and angle with length-width, drag from displacement of water, speed of retreive or trolling. And don't forget if your on a flowing water rather then a tidal water or lake, is are you retrieving against or with the flow of the water. Oh heck I'm tired from typing. You get the idea. You'll get a little unstable wiggle with 2, 1 will give stability with less action. But I'm saying this without seeing the bait like I do when I'm shaping mine.

Tell me if wrong, but if the pic's are relative to the topic then it is allowed. If your just out to put baits to sell on a thread it is not allowed. And I'm surely not the powers to be!

Gliders you know me I try not to do any harm to no one. Matter of fact I defend everyone's ideas. Some how people reads my mind and think my last post as me being rud.......please don't. I was making comment on the multiple pics happening and Glider writing Oooops. Everybody please read this.... I was NOT referring to your baits. I don't do that! That's the problem about texting, forum and such. Reading could be takin wrong. I do not friend someone that I don't respect. Also I made comments in the gallery about your quality of work. No apologies from me, because I did not mean anything by it. Just playing with your...Ooops. TU take care, I'm over this. Dale

I would feel the same way Jeff. Don't give them a inch. Sorry it happened and Go get um. Our bank/card personnel has called us before because of where the cards were being used and the amounts. It was us because each was in different areas of the country. This happens every now and then. The point is the bank was proactive. Which I differently liked. Dale

If you are not using adhesive aligator electrical clips are used by many here I believe. I use the heavy spring paper clamps. I want it to be held tight. I hate the clips hanging on the material or slipping. I maybe going to adhesive myself. Dale

I believe I maybe able to design and carve something with a tad bit of practice. Very nice work JR. Yep I'm interested in some tutoring with POP (plaster). I have some high magnifying lens and detail tools to creat scale patterns, gills, eyes etc. So yep I'm in! Let me know. Dale

Gliders don't feel bad. I've seen a few do this all ready. I know when I post a pic it's not going to be pretty. I haven't posted pic's much. Now with the new abilities of the site that will change. Dale