SW Lures

BobP, I have read several threads where you write about rod bond paste epoxy. I think that's interesting how and why you use it.

I agree with much of the posts about siphon and lager cups. I've have or used both. If you are not painting many baits you will be happy with the smaller cup. Give some thought about the needle size to. I'm like Woodie, don't go so small that you are restricted or so large that you can't hold a line. For me I like .30-.35 mm for general painting. Good luck, Dale

Thank you Travis. I don't use screw eyes either. I've made a jig to barrel twist my eyes and to twist spinner wire, so it's no need for screws YET. I'm not going to say I won't. With that being said I'm interested never the less, I have always been like this. You never know from things like this how something new comes out of it. It's always worth looking at things differently. That's my two bits worth! Have a great one, Dale

Before what Glider and Dave recommended. Take some wood dust and act like you are sanding the wood with it. This is called "burnishing the wood". It will make the wood have a polish look, rather then the fibers being broke down and hanging away from the baits body. Then you can do the other techniques. You won't have a problem then. Dale

Certain baits I make are used in rocky bottom rivers, boulders actually. The lips hold great even with the baits being trolled and banged up against them. I drill "support holes" or slots in the lip. The CA glues are not quite instant in this application. I have the first bait that I made using CA glues and its fine as far as the glue is concern. It has been retired just to display. Some time's I wish I had more time. This is very seldom tho. To me each product has its purpose for each individual. For me it's speed due to my time that I have to build the baits. Once the glue prove to me that it's durable, it's what I needed. Example, I haven't truly worked on a hard bait in a good month. Been working on some wire baits. Cedar has an oil in it, could be the problem. Being dry wood it should still have residue in the wood. The epoxy may not like it as well. As Travis stated, so many variables. I do know this...CA works great for me until my latex gloves get glued together. Lol Later, Dale

The residue was my concern. Thanks

I have a habit of just saying super glue as you stated Travis. I actually don't use that brand name. I went out and checked the bottle comment one more time and the bottle does not show to be an epoxy. However I do know I read it somewhere, just don't remember where. Also yes I read about its true name years ago when it first started showing up on the market. I know I've been around for awhile. So from now on I'll call the adhesive, CA glue ...until I find where I read that at. That's what I get for commincating with chemist. Any ways since we got that out the way let's hear the results. Dale

Once you posted I read the thread. My hacksaw was busy so the hanger was used. However it was plastic and I cut the hook off and put that end in a vise. Worked and works great!

Yep, that's super glues. Read the bottle and it states that it is a epoxy. I'll call it a glue for this.

Tell me if wrong, but a glue like super glue is a epoxy. It's just not a two part. The reason is of its chemical make up. Each should be about the same, I believe the glue maybe a tad bit stronger for this type of test. I have come to the point like Travis now. But for chuckles & curiosity, I'm in.

That's a good one Ben. I have had a mesh move on me because I didn't have it tight enough and secure. That's one of the worst things to happen IMO. I'm real peculiar about it now. Do you let the adhesive set up a little? I'll give it a try soon. Dale

I've never painted one of those but the joint look similar to some I make. If the rubber band is hard to get in there, try liquid frisket (spelling), this is what I was told. Put it on the hinge and clean it after you are finish. Now...I couldn't find it around here. I ended up using white out for paper correction. WORKED Great! Now you will want to keep the bait straight and tight as you paint and seal. I got this one from Ben, use a wooden coat hanger (or something similar). Set the hanger up side down. In the arm spread set up a rubber band holding device. This will hold it tight till you are ready to take the bait out. Its a very nice way to do this. As far as blasting try baking soda, a little less harsh then a light sand. Although you can turn down the pressure. I agree, you'll get it. Take your time. Dale

This is one reason of many that turned me towrds making my own. I have had this problem and as Ben stated that the company sent me a replacement. That's what hapened most of the time. As most has stated give them a good go over and get them sealed before getting them wet. No matter where you get them from, even with good quality control some get through. Dale

I was up early this morning and got a tad bored. I got on Facebook (not a all time user) and was checking it out, then got to wondering about groups on it for lure builders. I went through a couple of sites and notice there was not a lot of info about baits. A few around TU has stated that these were more show then tell type groups, your dead right about that. Dale

I felt the same way about the V, that it concealed the hinge in the see thro look. With me learning I did the double V just to do one. I cut the angle down to 70° which made it look a little better to me. Then I laid the hinge pieces a little deeper in the two pieces. This bait seemed to have more action. Maybe because of the pressure on the front of that piece (joint). Honestly I thought that this type of joint could kill the action when I was doing it. That's just me, willing to have a failure to learn. This time I got lucky. Thanks, Dale

Was that cup shape facing the rear Mark? I have another question Mark? You told me once that a X cut may not swim as well as a V cut with the point of the V facing the head of the bait? I could have this wrong but I felt this is a good time to reask the question. There is a reason that I ask this. I made a flat side 8" bait with a X cut (double V) and has done very well right a long with a V. Both caught the heck out of fish, I was told. I do know by doing test that the action was pretty good, well enough to let them go. I'm just trying to understand and fine tune my knowledge. Thanks, Dale

Glade to hear that. Sorry for the pool tho. I go to a river near by in the past and check the running line and action of the baits. Depth was the issue, lost a prototype when I first started making them. Looked dang good until I lost it. Oh well, learning curve I guess. Dale

LMAO Fishermanbt, I didn't want to get the memo. Since I was forewarned it wouldn't have been pretty. I do want to start on a few things but I guess this will give me time to complete what I needed to do. Sorry to hear JR and about the first day of hunting Fishermanbt. Better luck from here on out. JR there are different types and recovery is different for each person. Since I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night that's just what I hear. Dale

The hinge in a swimbait can be done by eye screws, stainless steel wire or by a pin. I recently started building these, I made some for Mucky with a dual hinge from wire (.30). A friend took them up north a month ago and got some very nice walleye. I'm working on a Thunderstick with a single hinge its done well during testing. Mark cautioned me of the single hinge because it can roll in the rear piece. So I added a small amount of ballast. That did it. Mark and a few others are the ones that knows about the pin hinge, I've never done one yet. When your ready to build one I have a trick to find the alignment of the hinge points. Dale

Now that I have some time. When I change ballast location and/or bill angle I print another page with just the shape on it and add the new locations and degrees. I know the bill that match that design because I have saved that info. I scan it back into the computer. Then I save that page and start another and copy and paste with a snipping tool on pc's or for me grap. I put multiple patterns on one page. Now I put these on the material to make the bait out of (refer to last post). As far as learning to carve and symmetry first your absolutely right. Then learn where to put ballast, bills/lip and the tow eye. Remember what I posted earlier and Mark made me understand. Do your drilling and lip cutting first when you are doing a bait that you will use. Even now while practicing I would get use to doing these. As far as the airbrush question...you will get all kinds of answers. When I first bought a quality brush quite a few years ago I got a Ewata. Overall I like them a lot Recently I got a Paashe Talon with three sizes of needle assemblies. I am enjoying it very much. All are gravity fed. I am looking at the Paasha brushes (set) for powder painting. This brings us to needle size. I like detail at times (ie, gills), then don't need or want precise detail in other times. That's why the Paashe.... I have three brushes in one. Most here I believe will say .3-.35 needle size. This thread ought to be very interesting from here on. Later, Dale

IMO understanding the material that you are going to use after having an idea. If it's wood, know what type that you can get or afford. If wood is going to be used, know how to by it correctly. Others words know what you are buying. Once you get this down my suggestion is to lay out a bait shape on a piece of paper. This includes lip cut at the angle you want. I put a center line in two areas on the paper. I get my symmetry correct as best I can for now. This two dimenions of the bait. Go copy the drawing. Keep one for later. Then I take put the center lines on a piece of wood that is cut to minimize waste. I put the paper shapes on the wood using wood glue. The lines from the paper are matched with the lines on the wood. I allow that to dry. The stencil on paper become pretty hard and will stay there until you want it off. I have a band saw to cut around two dimensions. Also cut your bill slot with the wood still in a square, rectangle shape. Drill your holes at this point to. I use files to remove and shape the wood. From experience and luck I put ballast and hangers in the wood. Then I seal the wood very tightly. I put hooks on the bait and go test it. I this point I may have to adjust the ballast and hangers. Once I get the bait the way I want it. I take the other copy and put the final locations for ballast and all other information you want on it. Scan it into a computer for future work. Keep all info on each bait you make including pic. I use program like excel, mine is numbers. That's just a sample of how to, there is much more, jigs I made, how I drill through long baits etc, etc. Now go get your material to shape and go buy all the hardware you need. Then we will start in the next part of the equation. Work calls, hope I don't have to many typos. Dale

Ron I'll absolutely agree about the time it takes to get a scheme the way you like it... sometime. Lol I work on a gizzard shad that seemed to be forever. My problem was getting a very slight blue to come through the silver. I was asked to make some more, I hope I can. Dale

I use what Bob and Mark has told you. If possible go with the circuit board. I used lexan then started using CB and love it. However like BobP or Travis told me some time ago if trolling in a rocky condition lexan may be better. That is correct because of the banging around off of the rocks. Dale

I got to say it's one of the best Mark!!!