SW Lures

Thank you, that's not good if it effects both. I'll just use another clear that would be up against plastic.

It is good to know. I keep my cranks away from other baits only because I'll lay them in box separate. Bad thing is I will lay poles with baits on them that could lay on another. I also had some thoughts about a hybrid bait. I won't use rustoleum on these. I have read something about this type of reaction, well melt down. Did the plastic react to the clear?

Funny you stated that Tracy. I got a site to allow me to put in a request not long after. I went a head and put it in on two sites. The one I'm in with seems interesting. I haven't had a chance to spend much time in the site yet. Dale

Wow I never would have thought epoxy was that close to water density BobP. My bad on that one! Dale

Etex is a two part. I've used about all clear coates mentioned so far in this thread, plus some others. There are several posting here that has many years of experience and are giving you good answers. I used D2T for years, but it has issues with some lures I make. To me it's a hassle to use, similar to Etex...IMO. I just started using DN and KBS (months). I thin mine less then most I think. I have no problems with either, even when I fish shallow mountain rivers. I tested each coating in the driveway off of rocks, asphalt and toothy hammers (framing). Each did fine but not as well D2T. I'm still using the two and I'm ok with the fishing life time right now. I wonder how long did y'all let the bait set between painting and clear coating? I also wonder what type of sealer was used if the bait was wooden? These questions are for the chipping off of the clear coatings. @ Reallison, remember D2T is a heavy clear coat. The weight even thinned will build up and change the action of the bait. If enough is applied any of them will do this. What I go by for paints and coatings, "keep layers as light as possible". I rather put a thicker coat on then two thinner coats, if the two would weigh more then the one, which is normal I believe. JMHO Take care, Dale

If needed Mark try Crystal Clear Super Gloss. This is what I use on jigs it's in a aerosol and I have also used it on cranks right over Createx and Wicked with no problems as long as I let the paints set up over night. I put it on to quick and the paint cracked, grrr. I couldn't remember the name last night so I went out and check. Both do just fine IMO.

Overall the clear is very light. This could be the best alternative for your baits and needs. I think you'll be happy with it.

I used it for a lot of my baits when I started Mark. It held up pretty good and still is on what I have left or what some others have. It gives a shiny look but not a deep clear look. I know this will take a lot of time, but if you give it a try let me know how it's doing for you. I put a second layer on when the first is still tacky. I normally put 4 coates on. I'm like DB it's very fast drying. I started using KBS and has some DN that I use. I haven't decided which one I like the best yet. I have a bait with Rustoleum on it that is 10 months old and has not turned yellow. I used it from early spring through the summer so it's done pretty dang good. The coat is a little wore but ok. I may put another couple of coates over it and see how it does. It still swims well and gets one here and there. Dale

I myself wear a dust mask no mater what. I use a dust air unit in my shop but I try to let this be the last precaution. I will also use window fans or whatever will move certain particles away from me. A dust gathering unit is very helpful in many ways, even if you just use a shop vac. I've been wanting to make a paint booth but I haven't done it yet. Even after quite a few years of painting. I would rather paint then take the time, I have got to make one tho. If I'm pouring lead even if it's just a few ballast weights I do it outside. I will wait for a good day and pour. If it's in the summer I will pour very early in the morning. Normally I do most of my pouring this time of the year. I never pour or smelt inside. Make a booth with a small filter and hook up a small shop vac if you have to or just get some small fans and mount them to the back of the booth. You can make this for a few bucks. I will design mine by vacuuming from the bottom like what car body shops have. That's just me. Take care, Dale

There are some that have been proven to be anti yellowing. KBS Diamond Clear, Dick Nite, Devcon 2 Ton and others. Since that clear that you used yellows, these people must be steering away from it. They will not use anything that would do this within an reasonable amount of time. My question and I believe some would ask you is this. What is the material, paint or whatever this clear coat is covering? This is important to what you could use. D2T is as tough as it gets, but it doesn't like edges. Then the others are lighter per layer, but if weight is a issue then these might be what you want. I'll set out and read from here on. There are ones here that is more experienced with the others then I am. Welcome to TU, Dale

Being new to making wire shafts, what is a good eye size for spinners? I'm using a set jewellers pliers and needle nose. Is a 1/8" ID pretty good using these tools? Just trying to learn about something I'm up to.

Look at it this way Fatman. You don't have to go and order much, you already have it unlike me. I don't know whether to smile or cry about that one?

For molds I must agree with Mr. Barlow. I do modify molds for larger hooks. However shank lengths, bends radius, gap and then the eye are slightly design different. These all have certain uses, but don't fit all molds. Again I use what the mold manufacturer recommends or will fit with no leakage in the mold. Hard baits is all in the bait performance and the fish species that I'm after. Lately I have design the bait for the right size hook and hook up possibilities. At first this seemed odd to me but it has shown to be successful. Dale

Ok Mr. Hopkins if it is you please hook us up! Pun intended. By the way assuming it's you that's not surprising how Mark discribed the video. Still can't get it, grrrr. Yep a fan, Dale

Went there three times, but each time Facebook had several reasons why it may not be showing. One of them was it may have been removed. Now Mark when you say talented, I really wanted to see it. Dale

I agree with Ben. I have never read that article, for me every dog will find a bone by searching. I taught myself by just trying something different and then another. I did read about the caps years ago. Something else I should mention is in my first post when I was teaching my helper, I was showing her how to spray in very low pressures 8-15 lbs excluding primer/sealer coat. I have to say she has really took off with painting. Hmmm.......never mind there's a child labor law, oh well. Lol Dale

I can't remember seeing one. I thought it would be somewhat easy to find.....nope I was wrong. I dug around a little bit and it was a no go. I seen a lot of fly charts but no regular type hook reference chart. If it's out there someone around here will know. I'll keep looking tho, I wonder if there is a such of a chart. I normally look at the bait and the species that the bait will be used for and get the right size hook to fit the duty. Its also the design of the hook, type of bend, shank and extra heavy or not. Weight class, I guess you would call this. A cross reference chart is not very relevant to me. Dale

I know this isn't tape, but have you thought about copper leaf? A little finicky but works well. I started working with it not long ago. Dale

You are doing pretty good no matter what. Your thoughts about what you want to do will be good ones, IMO. I have a habit of trying to visualize the species. When painting I'll bring out a picture. That's what I just did with your bait. Getting old is tuff! Lol DALE

Very nice AC!!! You've been practicing.

I have a few, when I get back to the house I'll post the one I last used. Dale

Try LPO like advised above. But I'm like Smalljaws about glass rattlers. Most I've seen is somewhat small. They give a click mainly, I haven't used them in awhile. I make my own for hard baits now.

I have got frustrated trying to get a similar colors/shades in gizzard shad baits. I set back and took a look at a good pic of a shad. The main color/shade is silver, this of course can be done with foil. I dulled the foil by dusting a thinned down white. Then I put on scale material. Tune down the transparent gold with copper. Do the areas that requires this (rear of the bait), bleed over to the blues using candy. I very lightly give a shot of candy red on the edges of the blue just because I ended up liking it. The problem with this is the scales don't stand out, but that ended up ok to me. I just never fiqured out how to get dark shades in the outlines of the scales but leaving the silver look. The other dark colors helps tho. To be honest I will work on this again soon. It's close but just not where I want it. Dale