SW Lures

Yes Sir Mr. Hopkins. That's what I'm talking about. Lol The bottom one is it a top water bait or does it dive do to the head design? I would think it's a top water. I also notice that you kept the tail area flatter for the action I would say. What's the depth that they work in? I was thinking about thinning or keeping the head flat on the top and the shoulder area. The other option would be to make the head down and angled, sortta like a lipless bait. But after seeing these, the lip seems to look just fine. Well that leaves only one more question for me, will my design catch fish? Thanks, Dale

We have salamanders around this area that are a beautiful purple with white spots and some ugly as heck brownish color. Then there is the mudpuppies, well what we call them. They have got my attention by fishing with soft baits that have done pretty well. I have already made one that looks like a large tadpole/mudpuppies. I also know some that use live bait. So I want to make some swim baits that look like the salamanders. Now I'm thinking about the head and body that looks like a lizard, flat horizontal head with a long thin neck. I was thinking about shorting the neck. My concern is the head shape and the way it sets horizontal. Has anybody tried this type of swim bait? Basically, is it doable? I could use the head as a diving mechanism or just swim it on the top and not worry about depth of about 2-6'. I'm going to carve the four toe feet tight in the sides like a swiming amphibian would do. I'm thinking about 6-8". What ya think? Dale

You can I would say. I did it with wood on a bait that I have now. It doesn't always come out the same every time but each one catches fish. I'm just getting into pouring myself and have found with a few helping me here, is that your density of a solid pour will be different. With that being said the action may not be the same until you get the ballast in the right places. Even my duplicator is not exactly the same, grains breaking out, sanding etc. I believe you can and you will be happy with it. I'll stop here and let the ones that are more knowledgeable then me on this tell you more. Good luck, Dale

Honestly I wrote that wrong, meaning one or the other over foils not both. Dale

I have a question that I thought would get some interesting answers. It is, have any of you ever designed a very good swimming bait (master) but did not turn out a good resin/foam bait? That would just make a person's day. Dale

I agree with Bob on the quality, I was making a point about taking care of anything tools. All my nail guns, sanders, grinders, etc are PC's and Milwaukee's. Traps catch all types of contaminants. I understand about the compressor being oil free. Just sayin, Dale

Interesting Dave. I'm going to start off slow. Make a desired design and give it a go. While on the way I'll start learning about resins. Seems straight forward. We'll see, Dale

I have been using a standing craftsman for years. So long that I forgot the size. All I suggest is to put moisture traps and even a oil trap. I have a moisture and oil trap near the compressor and two moisture traps at the drop for my paint area. I don't have problems with any thing. However my maintenance may help with this. After each days use I drain the tank. I never hold air on the shop system over night. I also have pipe traps in the system. The tank releases the water. This helps with the life of the tank also. Hope this helps, Dale

I understand Travis and yes this explains why you use it. I'm going and get the things that I need to carve in more detail work, as I do the other baits and fish. Winter is on the way and will give me time to get it going. As you can notice I'm not in a rush and I'm deliberate as I move forward. All my regards and thanks for your info and time. Dale

Thank you very much Travis for the info. Yes, in time I'm going to start a company up and this info is very important to what I'm thinking about. I can't remember the names but one type is the standard silicone the other is a harder silicone. Each company has there own names. What you use has to be degas (vacuumed) the other companies claim theirs don't need to be. The others claim it is because of the viscosity. Is one better then the other? Other words why do use Smooth On when it needs the other step? That is where I am going with these baits. I want to start carving detail work in them. Yes I know it will change the buoyancy in each bait and when I start casting the buoyancy will change again. I also agree that price becomes a after thought in time. This is not a issue with me anyways. I'm doing this because I enjoy it. I know I have a question after another but this is the way we learn. Even at my age I keep learning with help. Thank you, Dale

I have a few more questions. How long does a mold last? Next one is, I notice that some compounds are a harder silicone and would seem to last longer. Is this true? Dale

I'm not trying to have harsh debate but a discussion. I am looking into start pouring, so this question can help me. Excluding top water and deep divers, we as fisherman and bait designers (different levels) fish primarily in water of 5'-10', 10'-15', 15'-20'. Assuming this is a true statement then you need to design a bait that you like to work in each level or just one or two of these areas. This would include a lip angle for this depth. I have a dozen designs that I have created. Some may work better in shallower water and some work better in deeper. I would make a mold with the lip angle that would give me the best results and I would not have to cut them in after the pour. The ballast is just something you would have to deal with in a shaped bait. When I first started I built a jig to make cuts for lips in the baits after shaping, it did ok but sometimes I had a slip. This is not fun after taking so much time in the carving of the bait. Knowing the extreme importance of a square lip to the bait I started cutting them in with the wood being square in it corners. Drilling the ballast in at this time to. Thanks to some people here. My question is why wouldn't you do this at this point? The ballast is just something you will have to deal with the drilling, unless there's a technique for it. If I had three baits in the 5-10' depths then there are three there and maybe a few in each other depth. So I have about 9 molds. A person doing this for some sometime like Travis, that's a easy amount. Now he does not need to worry about fittings a lip. As I stated just trying to learn, Dale

Thanks for the replies. I'm going read up on it and give it a try soon.

I know another thread is going on about silicone molds, but Ravenlures is asking about a specific question. I searched for molds, pouring, silicone etc. No can find. So here's my questions. What type of silicone compound (brand) would you recommend for baits? I have been reading about it but I'm still unsure of what I'm getting ready to get into, any suggestion would be appreciated. I will be pouring baits from 2-8" & some swimmers. This being said, how many 4" (whatever size) can let's say 5lbs. would do? Thanks ahead of time, Dale

I haven't poured any baits yet, but I do a lot of trolling in the spring. There is much more stress on baits while trolling. I'm just putting it out there. The next topic that I wanted to put out is you may want to create a prototype and make a mold, for the lip issue Eyectcher. I'm getting interested in the pouring of blanks. The reason is to be more consistent in the baits. I'm also carving more then painting. I enjoy carving but I really enjoy painting. I need to look into this and some prices, Dale

I'm not ACarroll and I'll let him/her answer his or her side of that question. But you don't need all types of high dollar tools. If you have a good hand saw for small pieces of wood, a good carving knife or files, sand paper, pliers, vise (helpful), paint cans from hardware store and a imagination. You will find that you may need other small tools that I didn't mention. A lot of us have the power tools that speeds up the process, but to me that doesn't mean nothing. The enjoyment is what matters and getting better each time I try. So....no you don't need high dollar tools to do this hobby. I just had mine because of what I have done in the past. Make it fun and take your time , Dale

The carving reminds me of Solarbaits. I believe in time, I will be heading in that direction. If so I need to learn about molds and pouring. I just like that type of design. Dale

Got some pics, got things to do but one evening I'll get them posted this weekend. I can't get the light right to show the work. Either way I'm going to post a few. I'm going to get some more pic's mid day tomorrow outside if possible. I got some leaf today and I want to pick up some candy paints or thin some down on a few bait tomorrow to. Can't go fishing so.... Dale

Jr, that's interesting how you laid the ballast over, running nose to tail on the front section. Dale

I use the light layers as describe above. Then as I spray clear coat I use a soft opal fire flake/clitter. It pops! I took a dusting of black sealer over a solid white sealer base coat. Then I put on light layers of wicked pearl red. After that I took createx sunburst and laid misting coats until I got the color and look that I was after. This was for one part of a 8.5" bait. I sprayed clear coat with a .66 needle and with an small amount of flakes/glitter. I really like the look. Worried that it may clog tho at a bad time. What about candy colors over some pearls or foils. Anyone ever tried it? Never used candy's yet but this would give a reason. Haha Take Care, Dale

BLT, you use a oven? Just curious.

Red hot lead, nope. I put the setting on about 6-7 with a Lee Pot. Of course using quality lead is a must. I can understand the low temp. but 6-7 works on mine with barbs. Slag is cleaned out at the beginning and at the top of the pot if it not cleaned out. The oversize hook and modifying the mold was per Do-It. I have quite a few molds like this. Big D your dead on to with the soot it does help with the release of the lead. Try what's has been stated and if doesn't help then don't use it again. I always respect the people's opinion here, even if I know that I can do something or it works for me. With this information Swampman you can find your way and correct your issue. Good luck on the pours! Dale

I wonder why remove them. If the bait was made that well I would look at another way. Like covering the joint with a product like I was told about by Travis, liquid fresket. I found that white out works well to. I use a very fine brush to cover the joints. It worked! However you will need a jig to hold the bait tight until you are completely done with the bait. Using a clear coat will need some thought of what you will need to do while drying. If the eyes are in bad shape, that is another story. Hurray for Strike King, Dale

I agree with the above suggestions and two more. On what has been stated about pre-heating the mold. When doing this run about 8-10 runs of just lead pours to get the mold hot enough to allow the lead to travel to the bottom of the cavity. If it takes more then do it. The next thing that I can think of is a couple of questions. Are you using oversize hooks? If so did you modify the mold to allow the lead to run by them? I bring this up only because I did this when I first started making jigs. The area between the hook and the mold needs to be enough for the lead to run. If it takes a longer time the lead gets dam up. Dale

Again Centigrade, wow!