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SW Lures

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Everything posted by SW Lures

  1. That could be it. Especially if the paint has froze. Dale
  2. Never had that happen to me when I used it. Matter of fact the ones I did are still going strong. You may not be using the same thing. The paint may not be the same either. I use createx and wicked (wicked mainly). I just did some this weekend, they look good. I'm waiting on a airbrush to get here to use on mcu, it will be dedicated to mcu. I'm going to give mcu a try. But yet that product has/is working very well for me. Sorry to hear about the issue you have, Dale
  3. We have had a hard discussion and there is nothing wrong with that. You have two interesting designs. The paint is just fine. I am my worst critic, I would say you may be the same. In time look at your first scheme and a recent scheme you will always see the earliest one being better. The reason is that you will learn if it's important to you to get better. Good luck in everything that you are doing. Keep us informed. Dale
  4. Another interesting design. Interest in how it does.
  5. SW Lures

    Squidly Jig (™) 1

    Interesting design, either saltwater or fresh it may do great.
  6. I do agree with you Dave about a attorney for a patent. I really agree with you about selling your idea to an established company, however in my opinion you have got to be protected here also. Well it's really beyond me and I just enjoy making the lures. As I have stated I only need my hobby to pay back for expenses. After that I'm way ahead in my opinion. Have a great day, Dale
  7. Yes you should always put the eyes on before the clear coat in my opinion. I also give them a little extra by using glue also. Then I clear coat, this will help hold them in place and also help give the eyes a natural look. I have never had any side effects from coating over the eyes. Take care, Dale
  8. I use a set of "helping hands", it's a electronic tool. Really good for a lot of uses. It has alligator clips on it and adjustable. However even these don't stop misting on other baits. Look at YouTube and you will see where some use individual holders for each bait. Sorta like a lollipop stand, you put on colors for each bait until you finish that scheme then you start again. Each holder is placed in a predrilled base plate. I'm getting ready to make one myself. You can get clamps on Amazon, eBay or you can use the large clamp paper clips. I can't remember the proper name for the clamps, sorry. I will also make a individual base plate(s) if I want to put a bait down, for heat set or just to clean my brush etc. Hope this helps, Dale ps, I just remembered that since I'm not putting the lips in until the end of the process I will use a pin to hold the bait, not a clamp. Clamps would be for plastic blanks, which would have lip in place.
  9. @ Slimy Number one, If you looked up the US. Gov site you will see that I was originally correct it's $35 by digital not $114, $85 by paper. So sorry, second thing I said basically is the same thing that this Australian (assuming, he is) is talking about if you would read the first paragraph of my last post. Writing, mailing it to yourself...just read up on it. It really doesn't matter as I have already stated. Have a great day, Dale
  10. I use these types of fitting all the time. That size is a normal size reducer. Try a plumbing suppliers too. Some airbrush sales supply this fitting to. Home Depot, Lowes, plumbing suppliers; you should find something at any of these as long as it's NPT, there are many other thread types out there. I'll just throw this out there, it could even be a hydraulic type connector but I doubt it. Most of these places has a sample board with different size and types of samples (threads, sizes, etc.) that you can match up with. I'm wondering if this hose is NPT. Some of these sales people just don't know what they are seeing or just say this. Make sure first what type of thread that you have at the hose. I'm pretty sure that the compressor would be NPT (US, National Pipe Thread). Good luck, Dale
  11. First of all welcome to TU. That is about what I got out of the time that I spent researching. The design copyright seemed to be more to the main stream of most people's capabilities. However this seems like a false image when just a slight change in the design can make your dream go up in smoke. For me I figure to just make some different crank designs and see what happens locally. If nothing else it will pay for my expenses of my habit that I got and my enjoyment (making lures). Got one job, and at this point in my life I don't need a second. If I did make a second job for myself, I wouldn't have any time to fish. Just my old selfish opinion. Later, Dale
  12. I have played around with the contoured lips and are still working with them. I believe in what Mark has stated, two fold. My opinion is this, the shape of the bill can move the bait in a "pitch and yaw" action. The shape also focuses the water into a confined area at the nose of the bait. This is depending on the shape of the bill. If your bait is design/shaped properly for this type of bill shape the movement of the water around the bait creates a much more aggressive action. I use ss tubing in different sizes to form the contour, with a heat gun and a ss hose/tube clamps on lexan. The clamps allow me to tightened slowly. Have a great day, Dale
  13. That's what is known as a "Poor Man's Copyright" Ben. It may stand for that year as Kent stated. Copyrights have gone way up since I looked at them last, $114 US. Patents are $500/+ US. Dale
  14. Very nice thread so far. I'm not from Missouri but I do follow their motto. I am going to look into this more, it's an interesting topic no matter what. I have heard that a copyright is less then fifty bucks. But a patent I'm not real sure about, even with me looking it up once I believe. Very nice and informative, Dale
  15. One more quick comment and thought of mine. "At what point of making baits are done for fun or when does it become a job". People come by now or call and tell me what they want and I make the lures for them. It's still fun. That's what's going thru my mind. Dale
  16. Yeah I have to agree that it's pretty tuff to protect your creations. However if your really in with doing this I would start by creating a LLC. Then go after a copy right. Yep it's pretty discouraging but the people so far are right.....it's hard to protect. There was a person here about a year or more ago that had their company name pulled thru the mud by a person making inferior products similar to the company owner's. That was going to court but I never heard the results. I'm getting close to having to make a somewhat similar decision myself soon. It is starting a company or not and stay relatively local to regional. But heck, do what you think is right for you. Take care and good luck, Dale
  17. As Aulrich has stated about profile gauges, I agree if you are up for shaping them it's pretty fun. I also agree with reverse engineering. I have only reversed engineered to make one crank. The remainder I made from an idea. However I use the profile gauge once I get a prototype made.You can get pretty close each time. I get some ideas from the cranks being manufactured or has been. Most of the knowledge tho came from here at TU. These people has helped me a lot in one way or another. Making them maybe something to think about. But buying and painting them is easier. Take care, Dale
  18. LOL Ben, I seen something like that. I have to tell this story.....The guys, way back in the day took can foods and put them on a compressor motor to warm them up. One gent took a can of pork and beans and did this. About five minutes later a boom was heard. The can of pork and beans blew up all inside of the motor compartment. The good thing was the side doors was close. I looked around and I asked "did you open the can in some way". The answer was, "nope". Pork and beans was everywhere and took time to burn off. I would think a lure is most likely the same way. I'm sorry I had to tell that story since it related to the topic in some ways. Dale
  19. I was asked to make these darts.That is what I was taught to call them, many years ago. I don't have a picture of them but I believe describing them will do. All I need to know is what type of hair is used on them. The hair seems very fine. I also know that light weight feathers can be added. I make other wire jigs, etc but I have never made/tied these. The jigs (lead head, ball shape) are used with ultralight tackle. Thanks, Dale
  20. I was asked to make these darts.That is what I was taught to call them, many years ago. I don't have a picture of them but I believe describing them will do. All I need to know is what type of hair is used on them. The hair seems very fine. I also know that light weight feathers can be added. I make other wire jigs, etc but I have never made/tied these. The jigs (lead head, ball shape) are used with ultralight tackle. Thanks, Dale
  21. Actually a "fusion" or weld, if done properly is much stronger the the plastic or steel. In my profession the joining of plastics is referred to as fusing. Fusing by a heated plate then pressure is put on the two pieces. However in joining large plastic tanks the joint is referred to as welding. It's welded like a TIG process. Interesting that in that industry it's referred as welding, when friction and pressure causes the joint. I will have to watch the video. Thanks for the FYI, Dale p.s., It was interesting. Would enjoy setting down with Marilyn and chat about painting lures. She must be a treasure trove of knowledge. Unbelievable!!!
  22. I would say that the set up is quite difficult for someone new to use it (I have not). I would think that the process will become much more main stream for making lures in time. Once understanding the nuances as you call it, it is my opinion that it will get to a point of putting one out one after another. I have a duplicator (homemade), that can get close to the original every time. This is unlike the 3D printer if I'm correct. 3D's are on target every time. I set down one day after running out 8 lures out in about 30 minutes, and thought about shaping every lure by hand. This would be much harder and slower. Even with that being said by hand intrigued me. So I started doing them by hand and I have never looked back. Well that's not totally true, I'm trying to figure out where to put the duplicator to get it out of my way. As you said Printers will find there place in this craft. But for me I love using my hands to create a lure. I wonder did the old timers think like this about plastic lures or any lures using modern tools? I will still take a wooden lure over a plastic one. Oops, that makes me an old timer.....yep! But all has their places. Old sayin, "to each their own". Which makes it interesting. Have a great day, Dale
  23. Just hanging out?

  24. I am just hanging out and reading all this knowledge that is given here at TU.

  25. SW Lures

    Clear Bills

    I thought so. I have a friend that has developed a product that is like the liquid plastic you would put on a wrench handle but much thinner. The product was developed for another application. The product goes on and dries but he believes that on lexan it will stay together and roll back as you insert the lip. This will create a dam at the lure surface where the lip comes out. The epoxy will seal there and make a better connection between the two surfaces. It will be a barrier for paint and Turkey seal this area off also. You would just peel it of with a small knife. I'm going to see how it does and the way it reacts with lexan. If this works I'll let you know and when he will be putting it on the market. This may take some time. I'll start testing it tomorrow. Thanks, Dale
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