SW Lures

Jrhopkins, I'm sorry I didn't see your post yesterday. Ben's came in before yours, I guess. Yes I know about the people here and there knowledge. I just don't always have the time during the week to put pic.'s, other then making a quick post. I work a lot. I will give it a try this evening. I have some on my phone. Take Care, Dale

I use all of the paints that you mentioned. However very little opaque' s. Colors that I use the most?.... I guess that depends on what I'm making at the time. Decide what schemes that you will mainly being doing for awhile. I know by just starting out paints seems overwhelming. Sealers are the must I use, this not a "paint" tho persay. As far as blanks, you will get much advice about this. My opinion is deal with the ones that uses their product themselves. There are a couple of these people here. One that may not be here on TU is dakotalakestackle. I don't paint plastic blanks much anymore myself, I'm like Ben I make my own. Welcome tho to TU, Dale

That's what you get for using a pad that has auto correcting and not proofreading Ben, Lol....grrr. Let's try this again!! A 8" swimbait, and yes Mark I'll watch the height of the hinges. When I start a prototype I draw the pattern (profile) that I want. Then I scan it into the computer. I then can run it off in paper form and glue it to the wood using wood glue, this is after marking center points in both X&Y lines on the wood. The lines will be there on the wood until I don't need them any more during the shaping. Having that line I learnt for y'all. So I can put the hinges into the drawing once I find the best location for them and ballast. So in a way Ben I do have a swimsuit on my swimbait. I do have picture's to, but I will not post, I don't want any warnings. Thanks, Dale

I agree totally with Mark. Your get it I'm sure. Understanding what one color can do with another makes a difference. For example a white primer with moderate layer of black then a layer of createx pearl pineapple will give you a nice frog color of green. As you get that type of understanding, then you can move to mixing paints. Take your time!!!! Just MO, good luck Dale

I have just laid out a 8" swimsuit (Musky). I cut the joint in a single V shape. I will take the edges off the female side of the cut to allow more movement. I've seen what Mark has done for a joint connection. But for me I need to crawl first. I was thinking about making a ss hanger type connection. I haven't cut the shape out yet, the bait is still in a rectangle shape. The joint and lip is cut. Since this is my proto I don't know where to place the ballast. I can glue the joint back together (temporarily). My questions are, what is the best way to lay out the hinges? Did I go about this the right way? Show I have changed the process to this point? Is there anything that I may run into from this point forward that may create a issue? Thanks for your advice, Dale

I just completely forgot a thread that is pinned to the top of the forum here in hard baits that you may not have seen. Look at the "cook book" thread, very very good paint schemes there. Talented people in this thread. Dale

Another suggestion, try googling "how to paint crankbait". Refine your search as your questions goes to another topic. There is a lot of visual information. Then come here to refine even more. That's what I did when I started painting and making jigs. Just my 2 bits. Dale

There's a thread that has ask question about what you are asking. But I'll help, paints; most use createx paints, some use wicked (still made by createx). I have some opaque colors and inks but mostly transparent, perals. I use auto air for sealer/primer. I'm sure that there are other brands that are just as good. Not guns, but brushes which has been chatted about a lot. My opinion is that a quality one is the most important, whether it's a Badger, Iwata or Paasche air brush. Compressor; a good compressor that can give you a constant pressure (flow, volume). Whether it a quiet model or a load shop model. Normal pressure is about 40 psi and down that we use. You will need good gauge that you can see and a quality regulator. Some even have a secondary one at them. Some brushes have a fine tune one built in. Stencils; you can buy them for plastic blanks or make them yourself for plastics or wooden. Knowing if you shape your own wooden baits, your size consistency will not be the same for half profile stencils. A hair dryer or a heat gun is needed IMO. For heat setting your paint. Homemade tools, jigs. There are to many to mention here. Other topics are in the forums. Up at the top of each forum page there is a search box, where you can find information. There is a "How to do" site here also. I hope this helped, Take Care, Dale

I like using black also as a base sealer/primer. Using certain colors over each (white or black) primer will give you some nice different shades to build off of. Example, using transparent or....any for that matter except opaque colors. White primer will give you a brighter color or shade. Black will give a darker and richer shades. This also depends on paint and brands. Heck you can thin opaque colors and do some nice schemes. If I was talking about this subject, we could talk for quite some time. Texting is just not the same. Just experiment on some practice piece first. In time you will find things that you are looking for. Good luck, Dale One other thing, I have primed part of a bait with one and then the other or misting/dusting over each. Just to get a certain look. Then on plastics, the ghost scheme. a dusting.

It's a journey or the challenge as they say. If you leave the hobby it lures you back. We try to create the perfect bait to the fish or we try to paint a masterpiece. Oh well, it's what floats your boat. But whatever it is for each of us......we all got the virus. Welcome back, Dale

Welcome, yes there are some very talented people here. Enjoy, Dale

I have been using a heat gun from the beginning of my painting, about 6 years now. I had the gun for powder coating, for a much longer time than that. I heat set by using the gun. I have bubbled one once, got to close for to long I believe. I try to take my time, after stripping the lure. Yep, the learning of what to do makes a difference. I have found that Wicked paints get pretty hard. I'm starting to move away from Createx. I'm really getting to like Wicked. Take Care, Dale

My answers and opinions, 1) compressor, what do you need? Does it matter how quiet that it need to be? You do need a reserve of air to continually paint. 2) paint, TU has a sponsor that has very good prices. I buy from Jannsnet at times. I use wicked now, tuning out createx brand. Auto Air for a sealer/primer. 3) blanks, again TU has sponsors. Jannsnet has some Dakotalakes has them. It is a preference to each person in my opinion. But others will give you some other good places. Actually some have their own blanks. I'm going to get with one and get some from him soon. There is a lot wrote about brand name blanks and knock offs and can be found by a search. I am now make my own blanks (wood). I find it more challenging although I still paint plastics. 4) taping bills, I have in the past, just put tap across (perpendicular to the) nose of the bait. Now I take time to wrap the bait. 5) clear coat, I'm switching to another coating. I wanted to get with Ben before I do. So I'm neutral about this for the time being. 6) stencils, Yes indeed, I enjoy making them, whether the stencil is a half profile type or a lay in place type. It's the challenge of being a good craftsman and artist for me. It's also a hobby at this time, making cranks. However I enjoy doing them. Take Care, Dale

I know I'm a little late on posting on this thread. I designed and made a duplicator for cranks and anything else that I need to duplicate. I know it's not the machine that is being discussed. It does a great job, but after sanding the cranks and trying a few by hand. I found myself liking to do them by hand. Although I can "crank" them out if I like using the duplicator. LOL Seriously, I do like doing them by hand. Just my two cents, Dale

My scheme of a shad turned out great. The rock fish liked the scheme also. The shading was the issue. Now I have to work on the way the bait does while trolling. Someone wrote in a thread that cranking a bait in is different then trolling. He/She was exactly correct! Lesson learnt. Dale

I clean mine simular to Mark. But don't do a total cleaning to much, it takes a toll on the brush. I totally agree with Fogaddict about a brush. However I also understand about financial means. Buy what you can and save as hard as you can. Dale

I was starting to wonder if there another terminology to quarry. Thanks let me know when you can, I would like to see it. Dale

I was looking for videos on this technique for brushing powder on. I couldn't find any. I could be looking in the wrong quarry. Any help would be appreciated, Dale

Thanks both of you, Psilvers yes keep me updated please. Dale

I use powder in as fluid bed. Never used a brush for jigs. I do paint hard lures (cranks). What is the needle size that would be right for powder? I have .30, .35. I would buy another for powder if I need to. I really would want to keep these that I have dedicated to the water paints that I use. Thanks for any thoughts, Dale

I use nothing but powder. I just sent out about 400 bucktails and spinners .5-1 oz. I used some myself on a trip that I just came back from. Banged them off of rocks, throwing and trolling. Some scuffs, but no damage. Losing them in the rocks is another story. Lol I have been asked to make some smaller jigs. I'm moving down to 1/16-1/4 oz., I'm sure it's going to be some differences. A learning time for me. I'll be reading some before I start. Looking at misting some other colors in with the primary color and eyes. Dale