SW Lures

Let us know how it is today or after you paint one. Dale I wanted to add this. If you are paying premium prices for a product (Etex) use that for the eye of the user (fish too) and the sealing of the paint. Especially when there is a product out there that will seal the wood, but you never see, use that one when it's cheaper and it does the same thing other than the look. It does make my poplar harder in my opinion. I broke wooden blocks that had it on them and some not. Two things for the buck, since you fish for Musky's.

Yes sir, I dip them. I started brushing it on. As most as everything else it depends on humidity. It drys quick tho, and I wait till it's just hard enough to be able to touch but a little soft. I like doing this for tacking with the next coat. I guess that really doesn't matter tho, it's just something I do.

I doing ok, but not like some other years. Heck I haven't had a lot of time. Making baits tho.

By the way, it goes a longgggg way. If you are putting out a lot of baits, you may be good. Still I would like to know your opinion DoubleT.

I do all my hardware except for the bill. I want everything to be sealed in place. Becuase I don't do anymore to the sealing. Two coats normally creates a shell over the bait. This is when I sand. Howdy old buddy! Dale

This one doesn't feel tacky after full curing Gliders. I wrote about this when I first started. I put a bait underwater under water over night. Gauge the moisture of the lure in different location and found it to be the same as it was before. Y'all should remember my days of a Mad Scientist. Everything did had to be proven. Either way it doesn't really matter, I'll just keep on keeping on.

It's all in what you are going to fish for. I'm not a liker of brass wire, I really don't know why. Other than my like for ss so much. I am thinking about brass for ballast. But if your happy with it than that's great. What I'm finding out about bait making and painting there are some different ways to do the same thing. It's what you like and the only way to know is to give it a try AND new ideas. Dale

Well I agree with letting baits totally dry. Just try it DoubleT, give it time to dry. I've been using this product and for over two years. After using it I never thought about anything else. Just do a few and you'll know what I'm telling you. Other than me I have never seen anybody here using it. PM me once you give it a try. Take care

I would give it time from my experience. Something went wrong on some wiooden baits when I started making wooden baits, I take mine time and let each part cure. Sealing over night, paint scheme over night and top coat maybe several days. But when I'm at full speed making baits this doesn't interfere at all, there is to much going on to slow me down, Assembly line type building. This fall I'll start again. I've never seen aby air bubbles in this sealer. A slow stir and go in a few minutes. Heck it doesn't separate anyway. No stirring really needed. I keep it mason jars and labeled. Dale One more thing if you don't put them on a turner (if dipping), make sure you turn the baits slowly in the solution. You mentioned Etex, which makes me think you are using a turner. I use KBS and I do this with that. Air pockets can stay in the drill/hanger holes with the hangers in place. This solution will dry pretty quick to touch. Let me know what you think.

DoubleT, Minwax Wood Hardener works great. Cheap, brush it on or dip it. It seals the eye holes also. Hang it nose up if dipping and put a bent out paper clip on the tail hanger. Let it set for a day and sand it lightly (400). To make sure of something....we are talking about sealing the wood not the paint job right? If you are it's great for sealing the wood. More course wood I may wood put on more. I work with more dense wood. I put two coats on. It soaks into the wood on the first coat. I've got a few baits that are several years old, no water intrusion yet. I plan on using these in the spring, Striper run/spawn. I also test baits with this on it only. Dale ps, it does harden the wood. I took a framing hammer and gravel driveway on non finished and finish wood. You'll be happy with it.

Yep, Porkmeatballs. In time it can mess with your nervous system not to mention respiratory system. Don't be scared, just be respectful to what your dealing with. Be knowledgeable and protect yourself, you will be good. Dale

This is my take on this topic. Have you looked around your area that you paint at, then reach down on the table that you are working on and gently feel the objects in the area. Notice where you don't feel the paint droplets. How far do you feel the droplets from the paint area? Now how far is your face from that bait area. That point should be made. Any paints! Next know what paint that you are using. What are the microns that the paint puts out. Match your protection (PPE) to the paint solvents and microns particles. Dale

Well can't add much to Dave's comments. Number 1 he and others help me to understand these issues that I ran into. I came to TU thinking I had learned everything on YouTube to make a deep diving gizzard shad.........wrong!! First off, I agree make one change at a time. I didn't and got hung up because of it. I thought putting the tow eye out on a long bill and a angle close to perpendicular of the horizontal center line (x line). Well two out of three, plus weight location was a nightmare. I ended up with the tow near the nose on the bait. The bill change from 2" from the nose to about 1 1/2", still perpendicular to the center (I got right). Ballast moved way forward to a point the tail of the baits sticks above the surface. That bad boy will get down there now. I know it runs more than 25'. Yep, take one thing on at a time. Dale

Dale

ditto BobP, I agree about SS. I use 308, difference not worth talking about. After about 50-100 hanger/tow eyes I've finally really like how they turn out now. Dale

I use .30 TIG SS welding rod. I use jewelers pliers and have very little problems. Using this type of "wire/rod" I have no distortion from any fish hit within reason. I can make a nice tight circle. I just use two regulars pliers to twist, one is grinded smooth to use at the eye. I'll use a vice with wooden jaws when I have a lot to do. Yep it takes time to get the hang of it, but is well worth it. Just my as Ben would state, Dale

I agree with Gliders. I hurried through some work twice and had an issue, cracking. If I waited overnight to the next evening....no problems. Dale

No hack, that's a great job. Travis you are getting me more intersted in replicas. I could go back to just painting plastic blanks. I really like doing things like that. I would think there are some people out there that are willing to like them too, if you get my drift. I'm going back and zoom in again. Lmao Thanks

I just notice your post, the site didn't show someone posting on this thread. I'm going to give this a try when I get a chance. Thanks for the post. So the pigmentation has to be put into the mix, that could make it complex. Soft plastics can be painted and the sealed. I have been asked to enter into a local/national art contest. I believe I may carve the fins in for this one time. I have a new brush on the way for fine painting and to see how good this product is too. I'll read up on silicone for future needs. By the way I believe that bait that I decribed earlier was done by carving like Monte SS stated. Thanks.

Very nice! I've had art work to trick me before, so I have to ask. The plating on the back of the first pic, is it plating or painted? I'm interested in rust looking paints as this one has, well I believe . I believe that model makers use this often for an realistic look. Thanks

It is amazing how the tow eye location can make it or break it. It seems that a standard stick type bait with a lip does better near the nose. On the other hand a lipless bait does better up the back. But with a flat head on the bait the eye is still relatively close to this area. Interesting for sure, that's why we do it I guess.

The two bait maker's above is dead on. It takes time for someone to learn what changes will correct issues. Depth of a bait diving can be all of the above, Like Bob stated it takes info to answer each question. Post a pic with detail info, that would help.

Thank you Jonister. I've got and idea with this. Make a few molds, then put this into the mold and press it. Remove all excessive push out. Then let dry and clean up. Like I have stated this will be just for show. Dale

Glade you got it fixed. I had the same thing happen to me but on the back. It was just what Gliders stated. Mine was a different top coat but the results were the same. I now allow for maxium curing time. I had a fishing trip and I rushed that one bait through. Live and learn I guess. 21xdc is correct also about the bubbles. I suggest to not use heat on top coats. Let it cure on it's time. Take care, Dale

Thanks Mark, yeah the milk jug did ok but I just couldn't get the look I wanted. It may have been more me then anything else. I am still willing to have more suggestions. The site didn't show Joinster comment, sorry I didn't have chance to comment when you sent it. Yes please post some pics, if you don't mind. I'm very interested. MonteSS, same with you as Jonister, I didn't see it. Yes it is very nice work. Yeah I could carve them out when I make a copy of a fish. Which would be on point if I would do it right. I was going for cheating a tad by having some already to go. When someone ask for this type all I would have do is get the body and match up the fins. Thanks all, Dale