Jump to content

SW Lures

TU Member
  • Posts

    1,258
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22

Everything posted by SW Lures

  1. What I was told as a young person; "A person who doesn't make errors, is a person who is doing nothing". The shame is when people don't learn from their errors.

  2. what I was told as a young person; "A person who doesn't make errors, is a person who is doing nothing".

  3. I hate to say this Jdeee, I still have a river runt. It's in a old box somewhere. V-man, I never waste anything, this includes any errors on my part or others. I just store them away for future use. I truly believe that this design can work. I'm not as confident in the depth. I will maul them until I can't use them anymore to see if I can't get it to work. I have three with tie hangers at different location. I believe the lip needs to stay at the length I have it, to be successful. Now this was/is my thought about moving the tie hanger further away from the nose of the bait. The pull of the cranking in will bring the y plane more towards 90% (or the x plane). I don't believe it will take much. I believe it would be more towards what Jbeee was stating, about a 45% or so. I also want it to rise slowly, just enough to have a chance to get out of structure. I'm setting here hoping what I am think is right. Maybe I should not have replied...oh well that's not a first. Lol Dale
  4. My test's failed miserably, with the deep divers that I have been designing. The remainder came through with flying colors once I put more weight in all of them. I have moved the tie/tow line further out on the lip of the divers. So far so good in a float test, swim test. The bait was running at about 70° down with some wiggle but acting like a parachute. I'll try again this weekend to see what the depth will be. I won't be disappointed if it doesn't get to my depth I want. This is a learning process for me. I have several more bodies ready to experiment with and can make more quickly. I'm pretty happy with the out come of the baits. I have one design that I have not really seen before (I had to search hard to find something even close to the design) that I'm very happy with. I'm really surprised that it did as well as it did, beautiful action. I have some minnow style baits that run very true with a nice wobble and to 6-10'. I need to design more of them to have a wiggle for colder water conditions. My problem is, I'm limited in time. Boo...hoo...hoo! Got to work, ugh. Take Care; Dale
  5. Only good wishes for you. Dale
  6. Thanks for sharing Gino, that tells me that I'm heading in the right direction. My baits are sealed now and I will be doing float test today with and with out full gear. I will pay attention to the way each sets in the water. Then I'll do a small pull test to see what kind of movement that each has and then tomorrow we will find out for sure. A few young gentlemen want to help with dropping of them out from their boat or visa versa and watching them dive from that drop. Afterwards do some fishing. I believe they have a eye for one of these baits if they come out right. I'm just fine with that. Again thanks for all the info. Dale
  7. I don't think you have. It is most likely a sealed unit. However I differently agree with Ben and the water traps. I use one myself for my shop. This is all the way to painting. There is a bleed off on the bottom of the tank on up right models and on the side near the bottom for the pancake type. Every time you shut down for the night make sure you bleed it off, moisture will come out also. If you don't the tank will rust out in a short time. I also recommend to get a good regulator to put near you with a quality gauge on it. This allows you to adjust easily. These models come with a ok regulator and gauge. The gauge needs to be big enough to read easily and in small increments to get to levels of pressure you will need. Happy painting! Dale
  8. I enjoy the people here that have been around in this craft for awhile discussing a topic. So much good information and creative thoughts come out of them. Even with me being here at TU for such a short time. Where I'm testing at is a area that has a known depth (in general) and a clay bottom. Also is somewhat free of structure, I hope. I will get a good idea of what the lure is running. My issue is that I have never really made a crankbait before. I figure to have a few blow ups from some designs, which is ok. I'll learn from them. Mark I agree with your thoughts of using a proven design. As I state earlier I started this to create a design that I could not find with a color scheme that I have not seen. These designs I hope are not the ones that go..... BOOMM! Take Care; Dale
  9. Been working on it Dave. As some of you know, I'm working on a lure to reach 20-25' without any assistance other then the trolling of the boat. I have design a crank with a slim profile (width) and a tall height, heavier wood, bill design concave just at about a 1/32" from center and weighted appropriately I hope. I will test a couple of these this weekend in a trolling test. I also can advise anyone that is new to this craft, read Dave's post somewhere in the forum and his suggestion to a thread of the engine of a crankbait. Very interesting read and has made me rethink what I thought I knew. It actually enhance my thinking, the read made me think deeper into the topic. I have even come to thinking of the bill as the starter of the engine and the line tie as the battery cables. Heck of an analogy right. Lol I started this because I either could not find the shape or colors scheme I wanted (a typical baitfish in that area). There maybe a reason for this, wish me luck. I'll keep y'all informed on how things goes, maybe in another topic thread. Take Care; Dale
  10. It's lower in price then the UV clear I'm looking to buy. Two pints or a quart of this is $90. Ugh.......
  11. SW Lures

    "jigs"

    I have forgot all about them, as you can see I was out in left field somewhere. I'll give these ideas a try. Thanks; Dale
  12. SW Lures

    "jigs"

    Thank you Jordanlures, I believe you are talking about the scrapers like "Red Devils". Honestly I have never thought about using them. I will give them a try. Since my last post I have learnt how to smooth the baits out better. I'm also experimenting on a "sand tumbler" to smooth them out also. This tool is looking promising. I will take you advice. Thank you and welcome! Dale
  13. When it is boiled down, creating something is just rewarding when that project comes out right (your idea of what's right). Do what interest you, which will make it fun. I myself came from wire baits, then blank painting and now carving. I'm having a blast with the carving, you have to set yourself up in tools for any of the specialities. My suggestion is to read up on each and pick the one that tweaks your interest and fits all of your criteria. But read and ask questions, there are some very experienced people here and will give you good advice. Dale
  14. Give jannsnetcraft a try, they have 3"X1' strips.
  15. At this time I'm working with cedar. Even if your working with balsa, I'll still be eager to read your results. Dale
  16. I'm new to crankbait carving, not painting of blanks. So my concerns is of the water proofing of the "prototype" for testing. Tell me if I'm wrong, but what I get out of this thread is it can be used as a sealer (Eagle Supreme, which I can get). Then a water base color (Createx) scheme can be put over the sealer. There seems to be a consensus that a Created Clear Coat should be put on at this point just for a buffer from the paint and the clear coat. Finally the Eagle brand can be used as a clear coat. If this can be done, heats sets are a must for the paint and a cure time is needed for the Eagle. Is sanding need between layers of the Eagle on the sealer coats? Am I right? Thanks for your thoughts. Dale
  17. Holly Molly Archimedes', but yep it is true. The rumor is that Archimedes' learnt this while taking a dip in a public bath. That goes to show, you can learn something anywhere. I couldn't help it. Dale
  18. If possible I would repair the one you have also, while you are getting the new one. The reason is that having multiple brushes allows you to paint a series of paint layers before cleaning. Some good advice from the posts above. Dale
  19. My wife and I went through something similar, this is what we did to help with the stress that we were going through. We set a amount of time a side just for her and I even if it was just a thirty minute ride. We tried to act if it was the last time we had together and enjoyed each other's company and held those moments (a smile or a joke) until the next time that we had together. We tried to talk about anything but this main stress issue. Give your wife sympathy for her concerns, because she is only there because of you, your family members (always try to remember that). Stress can bring down a mountain, try to tame the monster. Just my two bits thrown in. Hang in there, I have a lot of respect for people who does what you two are doing. Dale
  20. I've been here but a short time at TU. In that short time you have helped me several times. I echo everyone's sentiments....Get Well, we need ya. Dale
  21. I have just now design a bait that I have been working on. Being new to carving cranks, I going to read and learn from some of the best about this subject. I believe my design will be one for this type of a process in the future. I'm a journey type myself, but to create a design to mass produce for selling, this is another journey to start later. Keep giving out the knowledge, Dale
  22. Yep, either now or in the future type looks smaller then it did in the past.I like leaving little details now and again on a baits paint job. They are hard to see at times when you are cutting a stencil out. I have one more for you, if you have a blank that just doesn't fit your fancy use it as a backing when using a knife or etc. If these baits are really small, pin them down for safety sake. The blank will give some resistance to the knife. Dale
  23. One other item that I think is very helpful, even if it's not for cutting a stencil is a magnifying lamp. Dale
×
×
  • Create New...
Top