Josh Buck

Awesome! There is a little learning curve but i enjoyed learning. Merry Christmas!

I have only built three rods, but I bought a turn-key rod kit from Mudhole that was on sale for $161.99. It came with all the parts for one rod and the FSB-2 kit. I am satisfied with what I purchased. If I were going to build professionally or do a lot of butt wraps, I might upgrade to a power wrapper on tracks.

I don't know if this will work on nickel, but it does work on steel and aluminum. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV-PItEcLXY

Im sure it would be close, but with the one i made, after transparent paint, was brighter than glowing lure I had seen before. I was going to use it for trolling 25+ ft deep for walleye at night, but my dad and I still arent that great at it. Im not sure how long the glow powder stays illuminated. However, i thought if i could make one without batteries, i could troll the same area longer, without having to reset.

I think Livingston Lures makes one with the sound and illuminated eyes. The one I made was a one and done prototype, just to see if I could make it work. I would not have been able to change the batteries. I started to design a battery compartment, then realized that it may be possible to build one like the flashlights. I haven't really thought about it much in the past year or so, because I have almost given up deep trolling for walleye.

It would work like flashlights that you shake to charge them up.

I did once. I never tested action of the lure, just the light. I used 2 small button batteries to power one led. I had it rigged to only light up when it was in the water, but the batteries still died or a connection was broken a few days later. I would like to work on a Faraday effect lighted lure, I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

I just noticed that if the search brings zero results in hard baits, and you remove the + and search again, it doesn't search in hard baits again, it searches all content.

The search function in the upper left works for me, however I mainly just use a single keyword. The keyword has to be at least four characters, or it brings up zero hits. So when I searched for KBS I got zero hits, but I typed in diamond and there were pages of results. I usually prefer the upper left search because it is easier for me to direct the search from all content to specific content, usually only on the hardbait forum.

When adding prism paper to the inside of some lures to mimic a reef runner naked paint scheme, I used a product called 5 second fix. It's one of those as seen on tv products, but it worked really well, was clear, didn't leak, and super quick. After it was set with the blacklight, I just trimmed off the extra with a knife and sanded flush. I actually found it in a Family Dollar store for $10 and it later went on sale for half price.

Use the following info at your own risk. Since that is an AC motor you would need to purchase a new low current AC to AC transformer that goes from 120V to 24V. You can get them at https://www.mcmaster.com/#plug-in-power-supplies/=187575g or here https://www.mcmaster.com/#7708k21/=1875c71 Just remember it will still be alternating current coming out of the transformer so there is still a shock hazard. The rest is up to you, if you want to plug/unplug, use a switch, and so on. Be careful, and don't work on it hot, and wire it so that no one can come into contact with any live parts.

I was impatient with the crackle medium I bought. That's when I tried the glue. I spray my base color or color I want to shoe through the cracks, get the second color ready in the airbrush, brush on a liberal amount of glue, spray the color to be cracked quickly and a lot of it, then heat set with heat gun. I use the direction of the brush strokes to determine how it will crack (vertical strokes=mostly vertical cracks). I will guess for a completely random crack pattern that you should have enough glue on the lure that you can't see your brush strokes. As far as cleanup, I just throw the cheap brush away, and wipe up any spills.

I try to paint the lightest colors first, then follow with the darker colors. Other than that, I would mask off the area and lay a light coat of white so there is more contrast.

I don't know if you could determine the location based on that. The more I look into it, I think I was wrong in the picture I posted. I think that may just be showing a relatively hard bottom, that's what it would look like on regular sonar. If the info on Cabelas is correct and I did the math correctly, then when using the 455hz setting, the amount of bottom scanned is approximately equal to the depth, and the 800hz setting is approximately half the depth. So in 20ft of water the 455 hz is scanning roughly 20ft of bottom, so a stump would be within 10ft of either side of your boat. 800 hz would be about 10ft of bottom, 5ft either side of boat.

That is how I read mine, but I may be wrong. Sorry if I am starting to confuse you, I am starting to confuse myself haha. Also youtube has tons of videos on how to read down imaging and so on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG8HkZIB2Eo This guy covers down imaging starting around 3 minutes in.

Since you already have it, I would try it. But I think that battery, even if it were brand new, wouldn't last the whole trip. But I have been wrong a time or two.

No problem. Another thing I have noticed with sidescan possibly down scan also, the speed can affect the quality of the image. I think my optimum speed is between 2 and 6 mph. If you are barely moving or sitting still and fishing, a leaf could theoretically make a bar if it stays in the cone too long. If your unit has the capability, after you have found structure and are fishing around it I would switch back to a regular sonar screen. I am afraid to say to use a lawn mower battery. As long as it is 12 volt it would work, but probably not for very long times. First I would try turning down the brightness level as much as possible, as long as you can see the screen. I am using a 27 group deep cycle for my starting battery and sonar battery, but it is on its last leg. I have to turn the brightness down until I can just barely see the screen, and then it still will draw too much out of the battery and make it go haywire. I still have more than enough juice to crank the big motor, and that is what I have to do. Start it up and let it idle for 30 seconds or so, turn on the sonar and change the brightness level quickly. It's not annoying enough to get a new battery yet, but it will blind you at night. I think I am about to switch it from the cranking battery over to one of my trolling motor batteries. Just hang with it and you will soon be finding stumps, big rocks, bridges, roadways, foundations, creek channels, etc. Anything to keep from draggin that anchor.

I am no expert and have never used a Lowrance, but I'll try to answer your questions as correctly as I can. The new screen problem may be a problem with the battery. My Humminbird completely freezes if the battery starts to get low. I will assume you have the trolling motor and sonar on the same battery. My suggestion would be to upgrade the battery or get an extra for the sonar. The white dots are theoretically fish, but could be leaves, or turbulence in the water. From the description I read on Cabelas on your sonar it is a dual frequency, with my sonar I can use either frequency or both at the same time. The size of the cone is relative on how deep the water is (shallower water = smaller coverage.) I think my sonar has a 30 degree cone and a 60 degree cone. On the regular sonar screen I can tell which beam is picking up the object in the water by the color of the object on the screen (red is the narrower beam, and yellow is the broader beam.) I can only guess about the location of the structure (I hardly ever use the down imaging alone, usually paired with regular sonar or sidescan), but I will try to attach a photo on what I think. If you see a tree on your screen, chances are you passed right over it or just next to it. Best way to find the tree again would be to throw your buoy, then turn around and scan next to your buoy and see if you still find the tree. Or toss your buoy and fish something weedless around it until you hit structure, then fish the lure you are wanting to try. With the down imaging, I don't think that the rotation of the trolling motor would have much affect on the image. Side imaging will be skewed with rotation of the boat or transducer A round cloud looking object is usually a ball of bait fish. Longer or thicker lines or bars could be fish, but could also be a limb with few or no branches, or if fishing around docks or marinas it could be the anchor cable. The other main thing is to just get used to the thing by using it. I have had my sonar for almost 6 years and it is now outdated (Humminbird 798) and I am still learning how to use it. The user manual is boring and sometimes difficult for me to understand, but it will help to look it over. Hope this helps some.

If you are meaning to cut the scales out of the stencil plastic, then heat and form, I don't think it would work too well. It would just suck air through the holes, and not conform to the lure shape very well. I apologize if I misunderstood your question.

Just did a search and found this website. It has a lot of different sizes, colors, and shapes of sequins that may or may not work for you. http://www.ccartwright.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=6 This company is in Arkansas, so I don't know how cost effective it would be. Maybe you could find a closer source with similar stock. Hope this helps. Josh

Thanks. So far it works pretty good for me. It's not nearly as harsh on the lures, unless you soak a cloth and leave the it on said lure for an hour. That's why the lip is still cloudy, I had to sand out the cloth impression. I didn't want to risk putting epoxy on the lip and have to try and remove it later.

Hello everyone! First time posting, but I thought I'd give my thoughts on this. I have had the same problems when stripping down Bomber 9A's. All of the lures I stripped down were cloudy and had a greenish tint to them. I tried acetone, but the acetone loves to eat the plastic. Even a quick dip would damage the plastic when it was flashing off. So recently, I stripped one down with DOT 3 brake fluid, sanded, sanded some more, wet sanded with 400 grit, and wet sanded with 1500 grit. The lures were still cloudy, but they were pretty transparent when wet. I decided since it was clear when wet, it would probably be clear after clear coating. My suggestion would be to check them underwater in the sink. That may not be the issue, but as you can see below, where it is clear coated, it is pretty transparent. Hope this helps, and yall have a great day! Josh