DiametricD

I recently had a problem with my line tie in a few lures, I mistakenly moved it up a half cm and my lure had zero action, then I moved it down to under half the lure height and I had great action. I think moving your line tie should work. Look at your lure from the side profile, make sure that the line tie exits at or below the midpoint of the height. From the front of the lures the line tie looks like it will be about halfway back on the lip. Good luck! Harrison

Thanks for the insight Reno, everything you said makes intuitive sense to me when I think about it. I've just started studying this hydrodynamic world in detail, I have an academic background and love me a little book learning. Also I moved the weight upward in one of my designs and that nailed my desired amount of "roll" action. This is very addicting.

Thanks for all the help! I am going to try reallocating ballast close to the cg and a couple new lip angles. I just built a hacksaw balance beam and it works great Ben. Thanks for the insights about body shape J, my lure is fairly flat sided so I think it will be the ballast change which gets the roll i want. I remember having an old round fatrap as a kid, it had a really wide wiggle to it. My next bait I'm making is going to be a shallow running walleye minnow and I'll be sure to give it a good flashing roll to grab a few walleyes attention, thanks goolies. I am thoroughly addicted now, I talked to a buddy who does CNC work for 2 hours yesterday about how to use it making baits. Luckily he takes his service fee in beers so my shoestring budget will stretch nicely. I've got to save for another couple months before i can get an airbrush setup and join John in the world of real lure painting. Cheers, Harrison

Hi all, I've been reading a ton on this forum and found so much helpful information, thank you all. I've made a few cranks based on others designs (Paul Adams Phox Minnow and one other), and they turned out great. I've designed my first simple shad style bait and it swims with a very "tight" action. It's made from basswood and weighted with lead split shot sinkers (size 7 in front of hook hanger and 3/0 behind). I want to give my next iteration more "roll" and a "wider" swimming action. I've attached a picture and the current design drawing. Can anyone give me their intuition on how to do this? I think that a wider lip should help give it a wider swim, also I could maybe make the body wider as well. I'm only guessing though as I have very little experience. thanks, Harrison