Chuck Young
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Everything posted by Chuck Young
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New patterns from Chuck's Custom lures. Most of these Craw patterns are in my SS series -
A plastic tote with a fan mounted in the back. duct work can be made out of cardboard and sent out a window. Or use a bathroom fan and one of those flexible ducts and send them out through the sill. Here is what I use - with many items attached to turn it into a work center. If you plan on spraying laquer, please note additional comments about fan selection
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I love this topic. The postings give several ways of accomplishing the same thing. If I were doing this with Createx paints I'd start with something like this: Base coat: White bottom: Flo sunburst Above this: Sky blue Mask Over blue and to top: O white top to upper 1/3: tan (faded) Remask in different spot Above blue: T leaf green sprayed at an angle. unmask top and tone: T leaf green Remask in different spot random sporatic pattern: T dark forest green. unmask perhaps a touch on top: same Shadow stencil: Candy black (1 drop T black, 3 drops T base, reducer to taste) top and tone: same. You may have to experiment a little - esp about when to put those blue lines.
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Mixing epoxy with sawdust or micro-balloons makes it easier to sand. But i only do that on the outside layer. I anchor the wire with superglue, but use 30 min epoxy. The extra time allows it to soak in better. Some epoxyphobic (did I just invent a new word?)plastic can be used to keep it from running out of place or to make it conform to the curve of the body.
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where to find strike king kvd 1.0 square bill crank bait blanks
Chuck Young replied to Rnd101's topic in Hard Baits
Avid bass tackle has a LC 1.0 squarebill. -
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3 Way Hairball Perch – entered 2018 Bodt length: 5-1/4” Overall length: 6” Weight: 1-3/4 oz. Hooks: #2 and #4 VMC trebles Paint: Createx paint applied by airbrush, and brush. Buoyancy: slightly negative with a slight nose down orientation in water. Sink rate: 2 seconds per foot . Construction: carved Basswood – harvested at home, dual hinged, 4 dual “v”section swimbait, Through wired to hook attachment points with .041 wire. Wood is sealed with superglue, finished with 30 minute epoxy. Top fins: split saddle hackles epoxied to topcoat (can be easily replaced). Tail: Two saddle hackles set in a slot in tail end. Pelvic, Anal, and pectoral fins: Bonded maribou fibers (pectoral fins mounted on outward angles. Innovations: True perch profile Dual “V” shaped wooden sections do not allow light to pass through the joint between sections. Hybrid hinge – thru wired to hook hangers on bottom, Pin and eye on upper hinge. Innovative holographic finish (my invention, I believe) resembles scales, provides great highlights, and generates a slight color shift. Pictures do not do it justice. Dual attachment points Front attachment: It hunts side to side as jerkbait. Will do a 180 in the right hands – then the maribou does its thing. It holds depth all the way to boat from 1 to 2 feet. It swims with casual action on retrieve. Rear attachment: Lure hunts side to side and up and down as a jerkbait Lure holds depth all the way to boat from 3-5 feet It dives quickly to 3 feet Vigorous swimming action -
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Layered construction and innovative holographic finish gives this lure truly life-like highlights. Pictures do not do it justice. -
As for applying epoxy with a gloved hand - please excercise caution. A gloved finger can act as a squeegee, resulting in thin or even dry spots. That lure looks great! But one lure is not a guarantee of future success. A thin, fine. but wider brush is speedy and much more consistent. Try thinning out a 5/8" fine hair brush. When you get it right, you can clean it with denatured alcohol and reuse it hundreds of times. The right tool allows us to do a better and more efficient job.
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It is not necessary to use the syringe. My experience is that they are not that accurate and you have to verify volume visually. I but the 8.5 oz bottles and use small "Nyquil" cups to mix in. I apply two equal size beads in the cup. I also use the volume of the bottles to verify by setting them side by side and comparing the two meniscus. That serves as a guide after the fact, telling you if you have been erring on your measurements. You can then make adjustments. The lines on the bottle are useless as each printing varies. You have to miss by quite a bit to mess up the results.
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Mark (and anyone else who cares to comment), I have noticed that all glow powders are also fluorescent (glow under UV light or blue light) even when their charge is gone. I know many fishermen spray a fluorescent topcoat over their lures. It never occurred to me to do that with a weak glow topcoat. I will have to give it a try and see how much it actually glows. As for whether it obscures the paint job from a fishes perspective ... I guess you would have to ask the fish! Or talk to someone who knows more about the biology of fish eyes, lenses, and coatings than I do. I think it is like deer - who see that UV dye added to most detergents like it was lit on fire. It would make sense that fish are more sensitive to UV than us, since that is the light that penetrates water best. It also may vary from species to species. Walleye and crappie may see things differently than sunfish and bass. There are probably filters out there in some scientist lab that allow us to see exactly that. Then there is the aspect of whether we paint lures to attract the fish or the fisherman. We probably all do both to one extent or another.
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I do all my painting now with a fine tip and nozzle. I just change the regulator pressure (30-35 psi for a base coat, well below 10 psi for detail work). If you don't have a regulator / water trap, get one. It makes a huge difference in your work.
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I use a Badger 150. There is a PTFE seal between the paint chamber and the air chamber. The needle goes through it. Not sure of the design of your brush. But there probably is a seal like that on every airbrush. A leak in that seal will cause your brush to pulse, then eventually to do nothing but push bubbles into your paint cup (or jar). You probably solved your problem. Just keep it in mind for the future.
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Great comments. We all mess up the mixing process at times. And the second coat of epoxy does a good job of repairing things. But only if you don't try to clean the tackiness off somehow. Interestingly, fiberglass boat builders use a special epoxy that remains tacky when layering fiberglass or glueing joints. It lacks a wax that would otherwise cause it to cure without tack. So the tackiness does not mean that the epoxy did not cure. Nor does it imply that the final coat of resin will not bind.
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I agree with Bob. The best glow powders tend to use large particles that do not go through an airbrush very well. I have the Createx transparent base (basically paint with no pigment). But it seemed to me that you had to spray it all on too thick for my taste. Also I like the idea of having the powder closer to the surface of the lure. So I mix my GID powders with epoxy topcoat and brush them on over a white base coat. It goes on thicker than the "paint" version does. But no topcoat is required. At times I apply another GID color mix to the top of the lure (usually a jig). I don't think you can put a lot of detail on a GID finished lure. Nor do I think it is necessary. Details would tend to be overpowered by the glow.
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That is a great tool, Pete. I have a carpenters version of the same tool. The 90 deg angle is bisected by the 45 degree angle. So a line drawn along the 45 deg line bisects the dowel. Do it in another spot and the intersection is the center of the dowel. Yor tool is much better than the carpenters version as it is scaled down to the relevant size.
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Alumilite white compatibility with styrofoam
Chuck Young replied to Hillbilly voodoo's topic in Hard Baits
Despite the rude reply, I would not mess with styrofoam based on what I see in those pictures. Many plastics feed on each other. Sometimes a temperature difference of 1 degree or a pressure difference of 1 millibar will change the results. So might a slight change in the styrofoam or molding process. Best to check with the manufacturer. The good folk at Alumalite have reportedly been very helpful. This is the last comment I am going to make on this matter. So if someone else absolutely has to have the last word, go for it. People on this site do not have to agree. The variety of viewpoints is what makes it work so well. There is no need to downgrade the view of others by calling their views conjecture and yours fact, or by calling those who disagree with you ignorant and stubborn. -
Maybe it is a cheapskate thing. I still wear a pair of Jack Benny shoes with the safe built into the sole. So my 15 cents is always secure. So sad that Jack died at the age of 39.
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Alumilite white compatibility with styrofoam
Chuck Young replied to Hillbilly voodoo's topic in Hard Baits
I am sorry, but when I look at that cutaway view, I see of two bands melted styrofoam. That is a classic chemical reaction. It is changing from a foam to a dense liquid, and then to a denser solid. Both the origional posters observed the same thing. Any melting at all is going to throw off balance, buoyancy, and consistency. Depending on the size of the lures, you may or may not be able to get away with it. Most lures are not the size of the cup used in the experiment. The smaller the lure, the more impact that weight distribution is going to have. I would seek an alternative. -
Alumilite white compatibility with styrofoam
Chuck Young replied to Hillbilly voodoo's topic in Hard Baits
What you both have described is a chemical reaction with the styrofoam. Clearly it is not compatible. The manufacturer will have some alternatives. Also check out some of their videos on You tube. -
Also be aware that a flat sided bait, a tall bait, or a long bait will slow your roll. Weight can placed closer to the front of the bait as some have mentioned. Also it can be placed deeper in the lure, but still below the x axis, to quicken the action.
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I reuse my brushes all the time, and have no problem with hardening or debris. I use denatured alcohol for cleanup as the vapors are less harmful. 1)Use a blunt, straight object to squeegee remaining epoxy from the brush. 2) Place a small amount (1/8") of DNA in the bottom of a mixing cup. 3) Alternate working the brush in the cup and drying with a paper towel. 4) When brush is clean, replace the DNA with fresh. Use just enough to saturate the brush. 5) Work the brush, then wrap bristles with a small section of paper towel. Leave it on till the brush is needed again. This draws out the remaining epoxy and DNA. The paper towel will harden instead of your brush. If the brush has hardened - it is too late for that brush. Breaking the bristles will soften them. But it also breaks up the epoxy coating the bristles. Hence the lumpy finish.
