Chuck Young

This could be a starting point for some. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30pcs-45mm-Frogs-Body-Baits-Semi-finished-Product-To-Making-Fishing-Lures-Tackle-/371567991407?hash=item56832d9a6f:g:t-oAAOSwFMZWrJRQ

I got my compressor , Badger 150 airbrush, and paint for $90 on craigslist. Best money I ever spent,

Watch your language! Some of us don't like readin words we can't understand!

Heat expansion and incomplete drying of paint will both cause crackling. So will improper surface prep, contamination of lure, occasionally (but rarely) a lack of tooth. Using incompatible materials to glue down foils (like E6000 or rubber cement) will cause the same effect. I now glue foils down with the same epoxy that I topcoat with.

Post a pic and you will get some suggestions.

walmart carries it. It goes by a couple names, depending on how old it is. You can find it in the floor care section.

If you are getting them from Dinger Baits, you wont find better quality. Dakota Lakes Tackle also sells a .5 with squinty eyes included.

A whole tree would make a nice big lure!

Nice!

I found a source in NH. Goosebay Lumber sells clear paulownia 4/4 to 8/4 for $10.50 per board foot. Evidently marine wood suppliers are a good place to check.

The 9 oz size is now 8.5 oz. FYI

I look forward to trying this. My biggest concern with pledge is adhesion. I have has great results with transparent base, createx, and reducer sprayed at a low pressure through a fine tip. I think most people spray too much paint (a habit I am still fighting), forgetting that the clear-coat is going to magnify those colors. I like my pearl and iridescent paints too much to give them up for dyes.

In the USA, manufacturers vary in quality and consistency. The same is true in China. Some have excellent quality control, and will produce exactly what the customer wants. Others have virtually no quality control, and punch out quantity on a budget. Some diligent folks in the USA have done their homework for the rest of us. They have put together a collection of quality lure blanks. Often they pay to have special molds made to get exactly what we want. They require higher standards from the manufacturers, and get better results. It seems to me that $2 vs $.70 is a small price to pay.

Check the last few posts (page 4) on the "blank crankbait body" link. Excellent posts there.

Just superglue your mouth and nostrils shut. Guaranteed you will never inhale fumes again. JK Great info Travis!

Mark, Ben and Glenn - the most important part of any fishing ensemble is the nut that holds up the rod.

There is a ball in the bottom slot for weight transfer, but the chamber might be different. It barely shows on the W lure site. It is also a sinking lure. Not sure whether yours was or not. The lip does look a little narrower on this one.

according to 3M a p type filter should be used for super glue fumes. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31997-spray-paint-booth-work-center/?p=261230 http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31895-airbrush-booth-cat-approved/

Opening a door and windows and blowing a fan provides haphazard ventilation at best. Building a spray booth is fast and cheap. A small plastic bin makes a great paint booth. Cut out the bottom and attach a small window fan. By using cardboard or plastic board joined with duct tape, you can duct the fumes away from you. At first, I just vented them to the floor. Now I vent them out the window. If you have a vented bathroom fan, the process is even simpler. A few modifications to make it more functional: Glue strips of swim noodles cut in half to the top. Plunge cut slots with an exacto knife and mark them. Now you have a place to put your lure holders and lures. This really helps with production painting. Another strip or two of noodle material can hold your scale masking materials. Roll them onto spindles and insert them into the foam. A media and airbrush cleaner can be made out of an old plastic coffee container with a few paper towels in it. Link it to your fan with a piece of vacuum hose. Glue a sheet of craft foam on the end of the vacuum hose and cover part of your fan with it. This causes enough vacuum to hold it in place and to vent fumes. You might as well glue a holder for your airbrush on there as well. and a hook for holding your cleaning brushes. And while you are at it, why not stick your scissors, knife etc into the foam to keep them handy.

Another excellent post and link from Ben. I suspect you need more pressure and air flow than the average airbrush compressor as well.

Given your favorable review of this product, I may have to order a few of these myself.

A transparent airbrush medium is the proper medium to use. It is paint without the pigment. You are supplying the pigment. Createx paints have a pigment size of .5 microns (.0005 mm). wicked colors are .1 micron. So I suspect that you will continue to have problems spraying that pigment. Just because the hole in the tip says .5 mm that does not mean that .5mm is available. There is a needle in there too. You may be trying to spray a pigment that is too large (.004" is 101 microns. 200 times bigger than airbrush paint)

All the more Createx opaque white for MEEE! (insert evil laugh)