Chuck Young

Great comment, Dale. I hadn't really thought about that, but it makes total sense. When you get into salt water lures, the wire diameter usually changes with the ring size; so I expect the larger rings are stronger. But equal wire sizes - definitely go small!

I have noticed the same thing, mark. I bought some of the spring steel rings at Barlows. They definitely are more user friendly. But I think the stainless rings are stronger. Then there is the rust factor. Any newbys are advised not to open any rings more than absolutely necessary to get them started.

The color really came out great! I'm gonna try me some cold dye too!

Nice idea. How fast do you have to work so the two halves join? Or is this a none issue?

I personally was not bothered by the post or pictures in the post. I found both educational. I'm sure this was a tough call for the moderators. The only suggestions I would give to improve would be more instruction and reasons for using glass beads. How you came up with the idea and fewer pictures with more comments on the pictures you show. Try not to be offended. There are so many opinions on this site. We are bound to rub each other the wrong way once in a while. I'm sure you will agree that we all benefit from different points of view more often than not. Please do not take this the wrong way. I hope you will post this glass beads info again, but with a link to the pictures in the gallery. It was a great post and I was glad to see it. Many others will benefit from your insight if you just do it a little differently.

shocking!

My computer prints ok, but there is something wrong with the spell check. Hope you guys can help. How do you get the white out off the screen without scratching it?

I saw a video done by Stimpy where he sprayed a mold with high gloss paint to get more shine.

Coffee scent no longer works on the Connecticut River in the college town of Dartmouth, NH. They all want half caff mochachino caramel lattes with a double shot of espresso. FLYERS - you gotta love em.

Most worming occurs in less than 17 ft of water. Actually around here most lakes / ponds are 15 ft or less. Red doesn't disappear until 17 ft. Violet is the last to disappear at 116 ft. Of course water clarity might affect that as well. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/p5P6UMGiT7o/hqdefault.jpg

Some use .041 stainless wire from Harbor Freight. It is pretty cheap and comes in a coil. If you stretch it, putting one end in a vise and pulling until it just starts to give, it straightens out great.

Sorry things are so bad. Please stay in touch on TU. I suggest posting your inventory to classifieds.

Here is a jig you could use. Best with squared stock. but you can also use balsa wedges to hold rounded bait in place. The saw is a couple of hack saw blades glued together. Assemble the jig first, then cut the angle to depth with table saw blade set at the proper angle.

fire perch". Createx colors are: white base, Flo yellow, Upper, socket: flo green Upper & top: Mist Pearl satin gold Apply scale mask Line up comb on gill plate to paint stripes: Thinly apply Wicked sepia or Transparent black. : Top, socket: Wicked sepia or Transparent black. Unmask backbone: Wicked sepia or Transparent black. small areas on belly, bottom of tail to represent pectoral and anal fins: Flo sunburst Throat: Pearl white Optional: sides and top: quick spray of Pearl satin gold. If you apply layers thinly, it really glows but still has a little flash.

Here is a jig you could use. Best with squared stock. but you can also use balsa wedges to hold rounded bait in place. The saw is a couple of hack saw blades glued together.

If you do not have a disc sander, buy a 7" metal cutting blade that fits your Table saw and a 7" resin fiber sanding discs in various grits. It is a great way to add another tool to your shop if money or space are at a premium.

For consistency when cutting your own lips try the template print and glue method. Cut them a little big. Then clamp and / or glue a bunch together and sand them to final shape on a disc sander or belt sander. This should yield much higher consistency. If you do not have a disc sander, buy a 7" metal cutting blade that fits your Table saw and a 7" resin fiber sanding disc 50 - 80 grit.

Right next to Mick Jagger's!

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Aww shucks ... you're making me blush!

When spraying, it is all about viscosity - the ability of a substance to stick to itself (for lack of a better explanation). Each substance has its own viscosity. This can be adjusted with the proper reducer, but only to a certain extent. With a clear coat you are not doing detail work, your goal is an even, uniform coat. An expensive airbrush should not be needed. Also you have a wider range of viscosities that will work. Good luck, and remember that figuring it out is half the fun! Kudos to Dick Nite for helping you in this regard. That is what all suppliers should do.

Bloxygen is argon, the heaviest (most dense) of the inert gasses. Some have suggested the use of "dust off" or similar compressed air on you tube. But I have had problems with these alternatives. The argon will settle in the storage container and keep any oxygen from reaching the clearcoat. It is the proper thing to use for such storage. Here is some interesting anecdotal info on argon. Helium, another inert gas, is well known for its ability to raise the pitch of your voice. Being lighter that air, it is easily expelled. I have heard report of some people trying argon to see if it would lower their voice. It does, but it also settles in your lungs. If not handled correctly, you can drown on it. One man was reportedly revived by being hung upside down by his ankles, allowing the gas to flow out. As a welding supplies salesman I know that there are safety issues with argon in enclosed spaces. A friend of mine died in the 90's from argon. As always, know what you are working with, its dangers, and possible remedies.