Chuck Young

It is taken under a very weak uv light, toward the blue end. Any uv hardening light would show up the fluorescence much better. A black light also works. I use it to test fluorescence underneath transparent colors. I like to experiment with various degrees of realism and fluorescence for different situations. I think uv colors are under rated and have added more to my repertories as time goes by. It is not unusual for me to do three different uv versions of each baitfish.

You mentioned fluorescent colors and perch. I like to combine the two in a pattern I call "fire perch". Createx colors are: white base, Flo yellow, Upper, socket: flo green Upper & top: Mist Pearl satin gold Apply scale mask Line up comb on gill plate to paint stripes: Thinly apply Wicked sepia or Transparent black. : Top, socket: Wicked sepia or Transparent black. Unmask backbone: Wicked sepia or Transparent black. small areas on belly, bottom of tail to represent pectoral and anal fins: Flo sunburst Throat: Pearl white Optional: sides and top: quick spray of Pearl satin gold. If you apply layer thinly, it really glows but still has a little flash.

That was an excellent link! Thanks for sharing. Now I really am going to have to buy a lathe. Thanks a lot, edge crusher

What a sweet idea!

It must be weighted that way so it remains horizontal on the rise. I have been following this thread for a while. What happens when you cast a vibrating lure in a softer material for a better mouth feel? For the trout I mean.

Does anyone know how many lure painters it takes to screw up a light bulb?

I like ebay and hate concrete floors. 5 minutes on a concrete floor and I can barely walk. However you can ask your local hardware store to stock what you need. If you use 4 or more a year, they will gladly add it to their inventory. Believe me, I serviced hundreds of hardware stores in my career. Most of them survive on fewer than 3 turns per year. I am a big fan of supporting the little guy.

Nice! These should work great on hand carved lures. And I like your double stencil idea. I bet it gives you great depth. My wife doesn't let me play with sharp objects anymore: So I'll have to cut them with the knife when she is not around.

Only fish with Barry if you don't mind losing.... your pride I guess. Who really loses when you are fishing?

Like I tell my girls... It's ok, you are both pretty. I have learned a lot from both of you on this site. I didn't see anything in those comments I considered disparaging to those painting blanks. Even if someone does, they have a right to that opinion. We don't have to feel bad because someone disagrees with us. I will continue to do what I consider right. For me that includes both painting plastic lures - some of them knock offs that are better than the origionals. It also includes designing my own wooden baits and working with others proven designs. The different viewpoints and experiences posted here are very enlightening. I have posted some ideas that were way off track and was happy to be corrected before I really messed things up. I find I cannot learn without making or admitting mistakes. That is why I love this site.

Glad to help! Lots of people willing to share on this site.

I designed a very flexible lure turner and lure holder system that handles swimbaits well. For swimbaits I use alligator clips mounted on cheap plastic paintbrush handles. Insert them into the foam in whatever place you need to stretch out the bait. Put them on hook hangers also for added support. The foam holds more weight than you would imagine. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31513-high-volume-cheap-lure-turner-lure-holders/?hl=%2Blure+%2Bturner

I have an airbrush that takes in from underneath from jars or from a cup you put on. There are better airbrushes with just a cup. But I keep a 4 oz jar full of water. When I change colors, I tilt the brush to the side, hold the straw to the brush, then remove it until all the water goes through the brush. I do this repeatedly until the water comes out clear. At the end of the session I do this again then finish with the restorer Mark recommends. I spray a little in the cap as I apply it to the brush. It keeps the end from clogging. Before painting, I run water through it again. On the rare occasion I run laquer through it, I clean extra well with laquer thinner then water.

Coming up with a lure you can patent is harder than coming up with an origional country song. In my opinion, Dale SW has outlined in this forum all the elements to incorporate in a lure to make it hunt. In my opinion, the S crank copied him to get it to do what it does - HUNT.

Welcome to http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31562-vacuform-machine-for-clam-shell-style-stencils/?hl=stencils http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31513-high-volume-cheap-lure-turner-lure-holders/?hl=%2Blure+%2Bturner

But I do have people coming up to my boat buying lures from my well stocked tackle box.

No body goes fishing with me anymore either, Barry!

If it results in symmetry, balance, and uniformity, I am all for it. I feel as Dale does that much work needs to be done in the square to accomplish that feat. I would add that, when it comes to lipless and swimbaits especially, a top coat that is too heavy or uneven can ruin all previous efforts.

I use these medium weight binder covers. They are readily available and fairly inexpensive. They cut easily with an end mill Dremel tool (kind of like a tiny circular saw mounted on a post). and are plenty durable as long as you don't step on them. If you do a searh in homebrew tools, you will find vacuform machines, including mine that makes stencils in a mated pair. These stay in place really well and you never lose the other half http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31562-vacuform-machine-for-clam-shell-style-stencils/?hl=stencils

Great contribution, Mark! I love the punch stop idea. Closing the r bend with braid first occurred to me when I was 13. I just didn't like the line sliding all over the place. Now that I read your comments, I am going to start doing it again. IMO it won't reduce vibration a bit. The distance between the line anchor and the reinforcement is minimal. Vibration will still travel through the wire. If you want more vibration, switch to piano wire. It was made to vibrate.

However you spell it, I use it on my lures all the time. I have a nice balsa slim minnow with a lovely sleeveless gown.

Thule is a meshy fabric that was used in the 50's to puff out poodle skirts. They sell it in fabric stores. You can find a lot of different fabrics that add variety to scale masking patterns. Most are 48" wide and at $2 - $7 per yard, it is pretty cheap by our standards. I use 9 different materials for scale masking or foiling.

Let it fully cure for 24-48 hours. Then a thin coat or two of createx transparent base helps prevents dulling. Once topcoated it shines pretty good.

That is one shiny lure!

The best metallic silver and gold paint I have found - other than spaz stix - is rustoleum 2x ultra coverage. It can be decanted into an airbrush cup (using a 1/2 to 3/4" straw taped to the nozzle) and cleaned with laquer thinner. It adheres to plastic, is inexpensive, and readily available in wall mart and hardware stores. It does not give you a chrome finish. But when applied with an airbrush it is pretty good. Createx wicked metallic gold is excellent as well.