Chuck Young

These things are all the rage. But I have never seen a school of minnows so densely packed - not even in a bait ball (Just saying). But if you want a challenge, there you have it.

Where you put the weight on your lures makes a big difference. The higher in the lure the center of gravity is, the more unstable the lure will be and the more lively the action. The closer to the lip the weight is, the less the action will be hindered. For walk the dog type of baits, weight is placed more toward the rear. There is also the concern of how the lure sits when it is at rest. Do you want the nose down, nose up, or level? The type of wood you use and the purpose you have in mind will determine how much weight you need to add. These are just some general principles which you can use to experiment with your lures.

I would like to add that I am not a big fan of very thin paints - like Com Art. Some like the fact that you never have to thin it. But in my mind, if you cannot change the viscosity at all, you lose a lot of options. Sometimes I spray thicker paint a low pressure. Sometimes I do detail work that requires being close to the lure body, but I don't want the paint to spider (spread out like little teardrops). If your paint starts a little thicker than you need, then you can thin it to do whatever you want with it.

Wicked differs slightly in its composition, so it cannot be mixed in liquid form with Createx. It bonds with Createx (and other acrylics) once heat set. Wicked is compatible with Createx transparent base and with the high end reducer. There is a big difference in pigment size. Wicked has a smaller size pigment ans is less viscous. For many applications, you do not need to reduce Wicked. As for sealing wood, or layering different mediums (laquer, epoxy, moisture cure urethane, etc.), I have a theory that each of these substances expands and contracts at different conditions. So as much as possible, I use as few mediums as possible. I often use runny superglue to seal raw wood. It penetrates well, and has a lot of tooth for paint to bind to.

You have some great advice here already. Whatever you use for paint, make sure it will stand up to UV. Createx is used to custom paint motorcycles and the like. The Createx high end reducer works on all acrylics that I have tried. I am a firm believer in using the name brand reducer. It cost pennies per application and performs flawlessly. NEVER pre mix an entire bottle of paint. I use bottom feed and have found that mixing small amounts in the feed bottle works best. If some paint starts to get clumpy, discard it immediately. If it merely thickens, you may be able to reduce it to the correct viscosity. As far as how much to thin it, thin it until it behaves properly. Sometimes you want it to spray a very thin coat from a distance, to deepen or blend a color. Sometimes you want a thin detail line or spot. Seldom do you want it to "spider", which happens if paint is too thin, a too much pressure, or sprayed too close. I use few opaque paints. Learn to paint in thin layers. Fluorescent, iridescent, pearl, wicked detail, and transparent paints allow the underlying color to show through to one extent or another. Transparent base and/ or reducer can be added to a color to make it more transparent. To take full advantage of your airbrush, you will need to use an adjustable regulator. The pressures I use vary greatly. Base coats may go on at 30-35 psi. Details like spots, gills and fins use pressures in the low single digits. If you blend your own colors, keep track of the number of drops of each color and write it on a chart (along with a sample), on adhesive labels (which can be put on your spray jars). Createx does not advise mixing Createx paints with their Wicked line. A hair dryer is sufficient for heat setting between coats. You don't need a lot of heat. I usually use the high setting. Some have even used their airbrush to set the paint by just allowing air out of their brush - no paint. I don't have the patience for that.

For fins you can cut your own stencils from a piece of flat clear plastic.This stencil will be good for all lures of the same length. I usually punch a hole where the eye is. This helps with aligning fins the same on each side. For small lures, I have been cutting a full size front fin (pectoral) with a smaller rear fin. I custom blend a transparent orange and spray at an angle from the front, so it fades away in the back. For larger lures like yours, you can do the outline of the stencil, then use an edge to add lines to the body of the fin. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/18419-f14-trout-par-seriesjpg/?context=new

The random stripes on the brookie were made using the stuff Mayberry mentoned. I double masked with the grain oriented horizontally and vertically. I got it recently at Hobby lobby (Metallic tuule - I think is what they call it). Mdot uses this a lot also. I thought it would look cool and suggest the random curved lines on the back of this species. And Mark - I think it rates as at least 2/3 of a pun. PU

An uncanny likeness?

Just posted some new pics in gallery. Let me know what you think .

Update: Two versions created. Version one is bulkier, heavier, with a more rounded profile. It wobbles about the same as the one on the Japanese website. Version 2 is thinner, flatter, and wobbles more quickly. The one Sticko created is thinnest and wobbles even faster. Version 1 weighs in at 15 g. Version 2 weighs in at 14.4g. Both are equipped with Mustad 9175 single hooks and single split ring. Body length is 9 cm. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/18418-vibrating-jig-front-profilejpg/?context=new

Sounds like you do not want to buy in bulk. When I was learning I bought a lot of blanks from W lure. They stratify their discounts, and have sales every month. Shipping is free to US, but can take 3-4 weeks. I have found their quality pretty good. Weights are consistent. But I test each lure blank before I paint and ship. Some of their blanks are fantastic. Start off with just a few. Try new ones that are on sale. Here are some that I like: M 219, M505, m589, m616, m647, m515, m549, c187, m591 (thru wired), L572 .

Fly fishing! I love it!

Thanks Woodie!

I got similar results. Good job.

I have a lure blank that wobbles on the sink, although more slowly. Some of the features that contribute to this seem to be: a blunt bottom, a fast sink rate, and proper weight distribution. Moving the weight up a bit in the lure might make a faster wobble on the sink. The absence of a belly hook helps with both weight distribution and vortices. Too much weight and you will get no wobble at all. I see a lot of fiddling in your future!

I was thinking the same thing as many others. Basswood is going to perform differently than the resin / micro-balloon version. The weight distribution is going to be quite different A master mold without joints and mounting hardware would allow you to refine those points for the final version. Nice work on the carving. Enjoy the process! And please keep us updated.