Will Wetline

ChrisNick78, Living and fishing in Massachusetts, my learning curve casting and painting non lead alloys began in 2012 and I am now quite comfortable with materials and procedures. Over a year ago I responded to another MA angler/lure maker about my experiences casting and painting bismuth/tin alloys. You can read it here: https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/184855-pouring-and-painting-lead-free-jigs/ It's a lengthy post, but if you read it to the end, you'll have the information to get good results right off the bat. Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.

I believe cadman gets the credit for the idea of using Christmas ornament hangers.

Yup. This works fine.

Thank you for posting these great ideas!

Thank you, Shmido, for sharing the techniques you've developed.

The 281 alloy melts at too low a temp to fully cure the powder. The quote below is from Kurt Urban at CS Coatings: "Powder paint needs a minimum of about 275º to achieve the chemical cross-linking for a complete cure." If you're on BassResource.com search for my post, "Six Degrees of Separation." I'm now casting Rotometal's Lead-Free Bullet Casting Alloy with good results. https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/ I cure the powder at 325º for an hour in Eastwood's oven. As an aside, I'll mention that if you purchase this large capacity, made-for-powder-paint oven, spend an additional five bucks and buy an oven thermometer - the dial temp on my oven is off 50º! After this curing procedure the jig heads easily pass my "whack on vise" test. To avoid muttering and cursing, liberally apply Drop Out mold release. It's available from barlowstackle.com. Bismuth expands as it cools. The 88/12 alloy is hard enough so you can grip the casting in the middle - not the sprue, not the hook shank - to remove without marring it. So, if you need to fish lead-free as I do in Massachusetts, go with the 88/12 alloy or pewter (at even greater expense and lighter weight).

These are what you want for larger, heavier split rings: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Texas_Tackle_Split_Ring_Pliers/descpage-TTSRP.html

Yup. 2017 was my first season throwing this rig, having bought the Do-it mold to make the head the previous winter. It was no surprise that, working it on a 6 1/2' or 7' ML rod and 6 lb. fluoro, it was a smallmouth slayer.

I have not used traditional west coast patterns. I think a majority of steelheaders that fish this river that drains into Lake Ontario fish egg pattern flies and nymphs. I have had success with the size 6 white bugger shown in the photo above. Here's one steelhead that liked it:

I like your idea and your wit, Tuna!

I just painted a batch of Midwest Finesse jigs and tried the above method of clearing the eye. I let the jigs cool first so the paint pushed through wouldn't be sticky and stringy. This worked great. Thanks, cadman!

Sunday morning chores are done and there's time to tie a few before the football game.

If you decide to buy, know that https://www.tjstackle.com/ makes and markets one that works just fine for less than half the price of others on the market.

I've been using the 3-D eyes from Barlow's and LPO for several seasons and have simply pressed them on firmly and went fishing. I've had only two come off. Reading through this thread, I like the idea of topcoating with Hard As Nails. Doesn't take too much time, glosses over my fingerprint and should add additional security. A magnetic tool strip came in handy as you'll see in the photos below: