Jon P.
-
Posts
37 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Jon P.
-
I as well am making a glide bait right now, i plan to pour a tungsten powder/resin mix into a hole in the belly.
-
Hey folks, recently I've begun discovering that my capabilities as a lure manufacturer are being undermined by the speed at which I can make lures. a batch of five baits can take nearly an entire day, which in the broad scheme of things, is unacceptable. I was hoping some of you could provide me with some tips to speed up the process. one of the things I'm definitely curious about is a dipping base coat that could take some of the finnicky-ness out of base coating.
-
do any of you know of any clear coats for lure craft that can pass through an airbrush ? i was using cs coatings uv blast with a brush but it was weakening paint and smearing. could it be passed through an air brush?
-
actually that custom feather cutter is a great idea! and it's funny that you mention roman made, making a bait that is better than the mother is one of my top goals.
-
hold-over trout glidebaits and my little brothers first hand painted bait
Jon P. posted a gallery image in Hard Baits
-
- 1
-
-
- swimbaits
- glidebaits
- (and 2 more)
-
I always play-dough coat anything that I don't want painted. as for getting rid of the finish use a light grit sand paper and use rubbing alcohol to clean the surface
-
thats why custom swimbait guys make the real dough
-
if you sell on ebay you can use the bidding function to use limited production rates to your advantage. if people see your products on social media (pinterest, twitter, instagram, etc.) and they want them, they will gladly pay for them competitively sometimes paying twice the original price. think of it like chumming fish, if you dump out an entire drum of chum the fish will have more food than they need and slowly swim around eating their fill, but if you let out a small amount of chum at a time they will be much more vicious, fighting to the death for the smallest chunks of food.
-
If i want to add a blade to a offset wide gap hook I use fly tying thread and tie a metal loop near the head and put a swivel blade on it. also i would recommend looking at owners ultrahead series of jigs, they would take the addition of a blade quite well.
-
also remember that the lateral stipe extends to the gill plate, and is more red than pink on the gill than the rest of the body
-
personally I'm still hung up on jump frogs, I definitely value action over aesthetics.
-
I'm looking for a similar product for making swimbait suppressors and I've been looking at Solar-EZ soft. but it sounds like you're looking for something that can coat a large surface, which might be a bit spendy with the Solar-EZ.
-
for carving knives just buy a frost's mora 106 carving knife and call it good. They're incredible nives. *knives
-
Ok, I see how that would be helpful, thank you.
- 13 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- swimbait
- wood working
- (and 1 more)
-
I work in a fly shop so finding materials really isn't an issue, but do you think that marabou would be shapeable enough? I'm looking for a pretty "on the dot" shape.
-
This is a very similar idea to my idea of forcing the plastisol through a foaming soap pump, which do you think would be more effective?
-
hey folks, recently I've been working on a trout swimbait and one of the things I've decided to do with it is to add frog hooks concealed as fins on it's underside. originally i was going to mold the fins out of plastic but that raised some issues with its durability. so i decided to tie the fins. i was hoping someone could help give me some ideas with making the fins. I'm thinking either dyed turkey feather sandwiching the barbs of the frog hook or buck tail. I think I would have problems shaping the bucktail and the turkey feather might affect the swimbaits action. any help is appreciated.
-
my current plan for the joints is to take my unshaped blanks, mark out the guidelines on which I would like to cut the bait, cut it with a coping saw, glue it back together, and shape it.
-
How about a fine bladed hacksaw? The smaller blade may make control easier.
- 13 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- swimbait
- wood working
- (and 1 more)
-
Dowels, work quite well as well.
-
Hey folks, my current swimbait project is coming along nicely, I have a few bodies ready for carving and I have a paint plan set out and a I'm just about ready for making moulds. However, there is a small road bump. I have very few power tools and cutting joints I proving a problem. My tools of choice are as follows; chop saw, handheld jigsaw, woodworking vice, handheld drill, belt sander and a dremel. I was hoping some one could tell me how to make a joint with those meager tools. Note: Hardware is not a problem.
-
Here is an idea I've toyed with, but never tried; get a foaming soap dispenser and fill it with your plastic of choice (in liquid form of course) then pump it out of the foaming soap dispenser and into an injection mold syringe and from there to your mold. When the baits come out they should have about the same consistency of a sponge. Now dip your baits into a bucket of non foamy plastic to give it a protective coating. In theory this should work, but I haven't used soft plastics very much.
-
Hey folks, just wrapped up my near final trout swimbait painting pattern with a few pointers from a local taxidermist. I excluded a few of the steps that I was given for the sake of simplicity (one of the ones I'm going to use is a layer of gold above the lateral line, hence the "near final") and it came out pretty dandy. I painted it on a TP roll so that I wouldn't have to waste another blank. https://mobile.twitter.com/bassosaurus_rex/media/grid?idx=0
-
Do you work independently or for a company? I work at the kingfisher fly shop in Missoula MT and I tie flies in my free time for a little extra $$$ on my paycheck