The silicone pad does a couple of things, the padding will help stabilize from moving and can take quite a bit of heat.
depending on the thickness and make-up of the holo-tape.... you can heat and form it to just about any shape then you can use a sharp razor to cut it out properly (always pull the blade towards the glue side from the non-glued side )
To me it looks like contamination on the paint..... meaning that either you got oil from your hands or something like that on the bait or the paint was not fully dry.
Just my .02
AGAIN YOU SHOULD WALK BEFORE YOU RUN, different blades require different spacing to allow flow without disrupting the other blades flow....I am not saying it can't be done but you need to build some regular blades that actually work before you take on more complex spinners.
I would suggest that you use the search tab above and see the different path and angle that each blade uses.
Just because someone else made it work does not insure that you can right out of the gate.
In the future if you are going with a double blade design, the clevis will have to be separated to allow for clearance depending on blade size and style.
A couple of things stand out right off the bat.
1. your blades are fighting each other...clevis on top of clevis I have never got it to work. scrap the double blade for now.
2.add 2 beads minimum for ease of blades turning
3. true inline blades have a whole in them and do not require a clevis.
4. your wrap at the bottom of your spinner is not sufficient... at least 2 full wraps.
so ditch the double blades for now, always use at least 2 beads and always at least 2 full wraps top and bottom.
Location and type of forage would greatly determine the colors you need.
Basic colors: white, black, green, purple, yellow, red and burnt orange but as you go down the rabbit whole.... the sky is the limit.
If one person was always right he/she would own the fishing industry, but that is not the case!!
We all have had great years followed by not so great years.... as conditions change from year to year so does the fishing.
Changing wire size on so on you can get to where you need to be, but it is all about your exact needs.
give us specifics and most people can probably help.
current is tough too fish but cfs and flow rates do not very in mathematics.
Then it boils down to blade, type, size and total weight.
Tuna, the best way I have found is build to what exactly you want to the style of fishing you do!!
I personally have my spinners built from .23-.73 ounces and most of the time I just slow roll them to were the blades are just turning, sometimes the blade stops and starts ( on purpose ) that is where I get my bites as far as speed.
Both large and Smallmouth eat it that way for me..... best large just over 6lbs... best Smallmouth just over 4lbs slow rolling spinners.
when you say inline this is what I think of....
Inline Spinner Blades Brass Finish Lacquer Coated Sizes 1 - 6 - Barlow's Tackle (barlowstackle.com)
blade thickness to me does not matter as much as target weight of the total spinner, I think that once you really get into building spinners instead of buying them, you will find blade size to weight is very important. it allows you to fish it the way you need to..... mass produced ones have a tendency to be just around what you need not dead on.
My .02
Not saying your math is right or wrong, but there is a difference between book and actual life. The Colorado is still stable and stays in a straight line on a retrieve even with a 7.1 reel, with the math saying it would run to the right is not so.
simple solution... make the the modification and put it on a tuned 1.5.... it will track straight.
don't have the money/time to do more.....I am on call 24/7/365..... it is just what I can do with the time I have left over.
So I wonder how many ideas have gone by the way side just because.
The funny thing is I have a few more things that I am working on that are actually working versions.