azsouth

I believe that will do well.

section before the tail, fat if you want to effect the whole bait, skinny if you want just the tail to move without affecting the front of the bait. I personally use both depending on what the fish want.

Any new design is going to have hiccups, Just remember to take good notes. Resin will make it easier to copy each bait exactly. Tail design can/will have a large impact on how the bait moves, thicker tail section has a tendency to move the whole bait while the thinner tail section has less whole body movement with more deliberate tail movement.

Usually with shallow diving baits line tie is closer to the bill and deep diving further away. Keep in mind 1/8 difference makes a noticeable difference on how the plug reacts. Personally without knowing weight and buoyancy I would put it 1/8-1/4 away from bill. My .02

yes sir, good place to buy.

Yep #1

As everyone said, 6-4 size treble hooks

I ( should ) always bring multiple lips to test, funny I have thought on previous builds that I had the bill dialed in....and not be dialed in and should of brought more styles of lips. A big part of this is understanding what effect each bill has on the bait

My first pick would be a coffin bill, then triangle with 1/4" round points, Larger baits like that you could use 1/8 " Lexan or polycarbonate but it might not have the durability or just go with 3/16-1/4". Don't make the mistake of thinking that all plexiglass is the same!! Lexan and polycarbonate are at the higher end of the realm and better properties when dealing with Mother nature.

Truly what sets the pros and non-boaters apart is tweaking the baits to get intended results. This is where it comes down to just changing hooks, snap rings to different size. Along with changing paint schemes. If I am throwing any mass produced bait, it is modified in some way shape or form.

Not an easy question to answer, it will hinge on a few things just to start. 1. action you want to produce 2. single piece or jointed 3. size and weight of bait 4. buoyancy 5. depth you want to achieve. with the above info you can pick the style of lip and general lip placement. pictures with size and weight would allow a lot of insight and get more people to chime in.

Swing for the fences! I would think permission would be in agreement terms of the site, yes.

Nothing worse than finding out a bait is killing them and your out! I had a soft bait that was discontinued but I had people over several states find the last ones in stores.... bet I went through 5000+

Paint splatter or drips should not be a big concern, Most of the paint through airbrushes need to be thinned therefore extending the paint. If your worrying about the cost of painting most any bait, I think you're going down the wrong whole because you will lose more time and money on so many other things that will cost a lot more than spilled paint.

I do the whole bait..... patching is just for a day or so. My .02

A v block is the best for cutting perfect angles on round pieces. You can spin test it then cut your lip slot. How To Make a V-Block on the Table Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America - YouTube

Yes sir, I have found several color variations for the desert southwest, I did use mass produced colors as a starting point but tweaked the colors over the years, some are fairly close variations while others literally I have had people laugh at until they see how they catch fish. 5 different variations of the 1.5 just with paint, total about 20 different variations of the same bait with finish, snap rings and hooks. Sometimes it was as easy as just lightening up a color or 2 on a bait, Other times very bold colors instead. One of the main differences that I do is fade/feather my paint into the next color and add a highlight overall that can only be seen at direct angles. I am always pushing the limits of the baits with weight, multiple coats of finish, split rings and hooks size.

A lot of good points in all the previous posts. I think it boils down to belief in what you are throwing, I do not paint huge details into any of my baits ( I don't sell them ) but they pretty much outperform the mass produced baits, Color to me is very important, just small variances in colors really seem to have a major effect for me, Along with changing snap rings and hooks. One thing that we really haven't discussed is the finish, The baits that I finish definitely have a thicker, heavier finish than any mass produced bait, I don't know if that is one of they key ingredients but it works for me.

I think you are not taking everything involved in painting and finishing each bait. Personally have won more tournaments on my own baits the any other baits....I will be the first to point out not because they are better than any production bait company but it is just different enough that the fish haven't seen it 1000+ times. I have done a lot of different combination's that are just good paper weights, on the other hand I have found a few paint schemes along with hook and snap ring changes that absolutely outperform any mass produced bait about 8-1. For me it all boils down to hard work put in=more quality fish caught. Start with a paint scheme that you know produces in your area and tweak it. With some dedication and many hours on the water you will find that combination.

I would say wood drill bits and some ss wire you got your custom mold. 2 pieces of 1x3 clamped together and drill the meeting point pull apart tape wire to just below bottom of hole and re-clamp boards back together, make sure wire is straight and in the middle of whole. pour in lead you are done...... different size bit to adjust weight.

covered in thread below...my diving bills keep falling out.

for got to mention it is cheaper if you buy the 100 lot size.

I have used these with good results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Pack-Spinner-Lure-Bodies-Tackle-Making-or-Slip-Sinker/120549415572?hash=item1c114e1a94:g:B7oAAMXQU6tQ~eOf

Wow looks great! any video of it working?

I build baits from scratch and I was also a Glazier, never have had a bill fall out! as a matter of fact I have broken baits trying to remove the bill that I installed. Vodkaman is right about scuffing the slot!! I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. 1. Prep bills by drilling approx 1/2 of thickness or a little less on both sides and stagger divots from opposite side. 2. Spread whatever adhesive you use on the bill making sure it is in the divots you drilled, doesn't take much. 3. Attach bill to lure and let dry for 24 hours. 4. Try to remove bill without breaking lure or the bill.