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azsouth

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Everything posted by azsouth

  1. azsouth
    Table saw, chop saw and a belt sander... you can make several hundred in about an hour. Blades for the table and chop should be 80 teeth minimum.
  2. azsouth
    here is a place that sells some https://backwateroutfitting.com/product-category/lure-building/unpainted-lure-blanks-lure-building/unpainted-big-game-lures/
  3. azsouth
    thanks for putting the video up, good stuff here.
  4. azsouth
    you can use a toaster oven for bending and forming lexan/polycarbonate. do not exceed 300 deg f. you can make molds out of pop or any heat resistant material. just my .02
  5. azsouth
    Colorado blades thump hard, lure parts online is the place I get mine or Ebay.
  6. azsouth
    The bait on the right has waddle type action that wakes, same principal of a jitterbug but on steroids.
  7. azsouth
    Very nice! just remember it is not people you want to make happy with your baits....it's the fish.
  8. azsouth
    Mason jar with saran wrap under both pieces of the lid.....DO NOT USE A PLASTIC CONTAINER!! I have kept it in a mason jar for over a year with no problems.... My .02
  9. azsouth
    nice set up! you don't have to go any more tech than what you have.... you have a couple of options. 1. use a moisture absorber product, be careful most of these product create heat when absorbing moisture.. the more moisture the more heat. 2. hand warmers, use a hand warmer inside with your camera.. can't remember exacts but I think it is around 88 deg f for no fog on lexan/plexiglass. I would personally go with the moisture absorber if you know that you don't and will not have a leak.
  10. azsouth
    With the problems your having either the paint is not dry or there is contaminant on the baits. Another big deal with any finish is the temperature....is the temp below 70?
  11. azsouth
    heat is the answer, but it is still a chemical reaction....when it is in the 90's here it speeds cure time up.
  12. azsouth
    use a light coating, anything heavy handed will either hide the foil or run. Be sure and not touch the paint on the foil until after the finish is on.
  13. azsouth
    pictures would probably help but remember glide bait are very touchy when it comes to weight and distribution.... pay attention and take detailed notes....heavier weight closer to the joint usually works out better. I am guessing you are using wood because of the amount of weight you are using on it. Weight can be your enemy ….too much will kill/deaden or make it uncontrollable lure action. Also each piece needs to be weighted accordingly, if you are using 2/3-1/3 joint for length then the weight for each piece should be pretty close to that.
  14. azsouth
    if you are in freezing weather it will dramatically effect curing time, I rarely deal with the freezing temps but there are a ton of guys here that can tell you how to heat your baits properly for those temps! sticky after 12 hours for me boils down to poor mixing. My .02
  15. azsouth
    In my opinion repaints ( done right ) should cost more! with just the sanding and prepping time alone you really don't make much money, if at all. There is a night and day difference between a repaint and a new blank.
  16. azsouth
    Basically boils down to quality control, normally the more expensive baits are good to go, less expensive=sanding, prepping, and tuning. Best blanks I have personally bought have been from Dinger Custom Baits. My .02
  17. azsouth
    fish eyes in the finish are usually caused from some sort of contamination....oil from hands, paint not dry. start there and pay attention to every detail while finish is being applied. Second coat on top of a bad coat might work, depending on if the lure is clean. My .02
  18. azsouth
    with lexan/polycarbonate you can heat and bend, or heat to mold. Anytime you are heating or cutting use well ventilated areas and proper safety gear.
  19. azsouth
    just a mere flesh wound! my baits take a beating also....nothing I have seen will hold up to rocks and fish for long.
  20. azsouth
    If that is a canvas joint, it will only take 1 drop of finish to ruin the movement.....I am talking from my own experience. 1. brush on finish segment at a time. 2. spray on finish with masking tape or rubber bands to keep finish out of joints. My .02
  21. azsouth
    Ice season, what the heck is that?
  22. azsouth
    it is a good air brush, good starter for sure.
  23. azsouth
    yes sir, check with your local glass shops for scrap lexan/poloycarbonate. most shops will throw small pieces away as soon as it is cut, so talk with them.
  24. azsouth

    IMG_0473.JPG

    azsouth posted a gallery image in Trophy Room

    IMG_0473.JPG
  25. azsouth
    let it soak in cleaner solution ( warmer the better ) being very careful push in a small round file and try to turn it... be firm but gentle. Too much force will completely ruin the brush. if you used anything other than a water based paint it's gonna be even harder.
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