Tiderunner

Got my stainless rods delivered the next day. Help when the supplier is only about 20 miles away. Skipped dinner and went right to work. Had 12" rods cut each to size. Mixed some plastic to play with. Coated the rods with pure silicone lube. Heated, poured my first ones, and was immediately disappointed. I poured some medium plastic from the bottom of the bottle and for some reason, they came out gooey. NO hard pack, no plastic left. Can't quite figure that out.rod didn't center right, color cols blew through the side of a senko. Called it a night after that Tried again today. Big improvement! Had some Medium stretchy plastic, added glitter and went at it. Come out pretty ok with the MF medium stretchy. Clear outside silver glitter, and a purplish core. Cuz you can center the rod, but it made a nice line through the senko. Rod didn't need any polishing. The pure silicone is wicked slippery. I use it to lube my injector. There is going to be a learning curve I can see that. BUT! The rods with shipping and tax was $14 vs $145 for a true core shot mold. One issue with my mold, it's a CNC mold, not a cheapo, and it has one port for shooting on top, while to baits shoot perpendicular to that. Had the baits been in line with the injection port, all would have been right with the world.

Found a supplier not too far from my home that sell stainless steel round rods. Cut to whatever length you need. I ordered 6- 12" long 1/8' diameter rods that I can cut to fit. Price was negligible.

Seeing I pretty much only use MF plastisol I'm pretty sure what I was using was MF hardener. The LC I have now is a pain in the keester to work with. I'm with you nearly impossible to work with. I ordered my last quart of hardener and stabilizer 3 years ago, so I use very little of the stuff. Been pouring around 30 years. I know the process, can't remember what brand I last ordered.I've tried other brands of plastic. Shipping brings the total price. up to around that of MF. So I stick with that. When I ordered lure craft I had ordered beads or hooks or something. so I added hardener to the order.

Some time back I bought a hardener that was clear, or close to clear. The label had worn off and all print was gone from the bottle. Anyone know who might sell this type of hardener? I've since bought a bottle of hardener, I believe its Lurecraft brand that is a paste PVC resin type. Hard to use. Doesn't mix well no matter what I do. Doesn't allow me to make clear baits. Can't use it for reheats so I can dial in exactly what I want when making recipes. In short I hate the stuff. I want my clear one back! Can anyone here help me out?

OK so the bug has me.I want to try this! Where do I get 1/8 inch rods?

I make tones of baits with different color tails. and tons of laminates, and never had them separate. Is it possible there's something oily on the mold that's preventing a solid bond? On your hands? Or maybe plastisol needs to be mixed more? I know there are times when I don't mix well enough my finished baits have an oily feel to them. Are you using a thermometer to check your plastic temps? I've had some baits now that are three years old with no issues.

While I don't know about shooting smaller cores, I do see in those videos, that once the original bait is injected with the rods in place, the bait is removed, and the tail cut off. That creates the vent that you're looking for. If you notice in the videos the tails are the same color as the injected core. At least that's what it seems to be in the videos I saw.

Wouldn't you have to cut a 1/8" groove in the mold at each end to let air out, and to keep the rod centered?

Not worried about not getting it. I was hoping to get it before Christmas though as it was going to be a gift for my son. We pour baits together and won't be starting until after the holidays, so no big deal. I did order the mold that weekend, and right now shipping is backed up as the systems are overwhelmed. Fed Ex, UPS, USPS are all behind on shipping, I do like the idea of the 10 cavity molds like you do. Can get more done in less time. Plus I pour some clear baits, that after reheating the plastic a few times aren't so clear anymore. I have a 9oz injector that should be enough to fill a 10 cavity senko mold. And would still keep baits clear. Or I can pour say 20 at one time and be done and then move on to a new color. Maybe I'll just wait on the core shot senko mold. And get the 10 cavity. I love saving money by pouring my own baits...LOL Isn't that why we all got into this? To save money?

Adding a few new molds for winter pouring. So far added a cut tail worm mold, a craw mold, next up a core shot senko mold. I want to add swimbait mold next, but what I'm looking for a I can't find. Looking for a 3.5"-4" core shot swimbait mold. Anyone know of any manufacturers of that type of mold?

AluminumCNC are the only type I own except for two old silicone molds from when I was first starting out. Pricey in a sense that they have a 10 cavity coreshot stickbait mold, when another producer has a 5 cavity mold for half their price. Their stuff looks top notch, but the size of some of the molds puts a lot of their molds out of reach. Both are top notch makers. Doesn't mean I won't buy other molds from them. Just can't afford to drop $200 plus on some of their molds.

Interesting. I've been pouring tails for years, and never had one separate. I don't use a tail mold though. I just pour the whole bait in the tail color I want. Cut to size I want, then put cut off tail piece back in the mold, and pour the main color. I may cut tails for about 10-20 baits, the pour the main color.

Sent in my first order with them. 5.75" cut tail worm. Anyone have any experience with the company? I probably should have asked first. LOL. Looks like quality made stuff. Looking forward to getting it in, and pouring my winter away. I like some of their other stuff as well, mainly the core shot stickbaits. But pricey! As always, too much month left at the end of the money,

Ordered the 731 creaw from BTS Single cavity. If its the one I want I can order another as it would still come out the same as a two cavity mold. Now I' have to make a laminate plate.

Thats pretty much the lureworks type. I even mixed plastic in a small jar with the hardener and shook the snot out of it, mixed into my pouring plastic and stirred some more, then stirred some more began heating, stopped, heated more stirred, and I still got lumps. even heated slow. I also poured a few dozen wacky worms the other day, and I though they were too soft. I bagged them today. What a difference once fully cured. It doesnt help either that I have two bottles of something that its contents took the writing off off the bottles. Turns out their both softeners. One sinking. Baits were wayyy too soft.

a little pricey ( all their molds are ) but they do have some great stuff. Its a half inch shorter and I know there is a cnc mold out there 3/4 inch shorter, for half price. I dont mind spending but I'd want to be sure of the closeness of the finished bait. If I could get my hands on sample baits poured from both mold makers to compare it would definitely help. Body contours, weight action etc.

Soooo. since I can't find the kut tail worm mold, I was thinking of trying to make my own. Am I to understand that the silicone can hold up to the high temps for pouring plastic? And how does this stuff pour? is it a thick stuff, is it a liquid? Seems easy enough to make the mold 'cept my art ability sucks.

I bought a nice grub mold from him right before he shut it down I was more than happy with it. Now that I think about it, I've bought molds from pretty much everyone. Just ordered the craw mold today from Bass Tackle.

What is everyone using for hardener? I used the MF plastics in the beginning, Then I used LureWorks. The MF was much better for my use. I don't use much hardener, Ive bough 3 pints in the last 4 years, and still have 2 left.

Of course not. I wouldn't have enough dollar bills for fishing stuff if I did.

Mine weigh about the same. I use a combo of salt and 70-100 glass beads. I mainly add salt because I've given up trying to make clear baits. Ive tried using only glass but still not clear. Color I'm most trying to duplicate is Yamo 197 It.s nearly impossible. And after the first reheat the plastisol stsrts to yellow even at low temps. adding stabilizer is no help because it has a yellowish tint to it. That's really the only color I have problems with.Yamamoto 197 Deadly on clear water smallmouth in these parts

Looked through their entire website. Not what I'm looking for. But they do have a lot of aluminum molds at reasonable prices I'm intersted in. The Ktworm mold is the one I'd be most interested in. But I've only found the 5.25"

I know this post is from another lifetime ago, but I can never seem to get my baits that clear. I do have a question though. Have you ever weighed your stick baits? I try to get my 5" senko type as close to 10g-11g. Thats what most senkos I've weighed come out to.

Same here, I've been using the same recipe pretty much, and have been for the same amount of time. The inside of my injector is scored, but if it's still functional who cares? I've only replaced on O ring during this time.

Then go first class in a padded envelope. The cost will be around $5.00. And maybe take a day longer for delivery