Tiderunner

This is slightly off topic, but can the fluid bed be used to powder coat spinner blades?

I have a eat gun but without a thermostat, and this sucker gets hot! I still find the alcohol lamp works best for me wihtou the need for thermometers, rheostats, etc. Keeps it at just about the right temp for BiSn jigheads.. as far as tempering to cure the paint. It took some experimenting, but With the jigs up to 1/2oz, They can with stand temps to about 290 for 19 mins. After that I shut the oven down and leave the jigs in. I've never had a one chip on me. Even when dropping on cement floor. Next toy for me is the fluid bed. After 20 years of doing this I'm still dipping in the jars.

Can you post a link to this? All that is showing up is a bill the allows lead ammo and fishing equipment on federal lands or lands regulated by the FWS passed back in 2017. Unless you're fishing in inland waterways regulated by FWS, any lead ban would still be in effect. I'm guessing if those inland waters are used for waterfowl hunting, which is regulated by FWS, the ban is lifted. Kind of a grey area. As I see it, a summons for using lead in lead free waters is something I should be worried about. I'll stick to on toxic.

It is interesting, melting at about 280F. Definitely not a candidate for powder paint, This is the alloy I've been using. The antimony makes the product much harder. It would have to be to take the ignition of a bullet. Also a bullet would require an alloy capable of high temps. Lead Free Bullet Casting Alloy Bismuth based 87.25% Bismuth, 0.75% Antimony and 12% Tin This alloy melts at about 395 F and is best cast or poured at about 500F

Ive been pouring jigs and weights in a bismuth alloy for about 2 years now. Certainly more costly then lead but a whole lot less costly than tungsten. I'm melting and pouring at about *500. You won't be twisting sprues off these items. You'll need gate shears to trim, and sandpaper or file to clean where you cut the sprue off. As far as powder coating, I'll powdercoat the next day or even longer after I pour to allow the items to cool completely. The I heat them gently over an alcohol lamp and dip them. Plan on ruining a bunch due to heating to a too high temp. I hang them once again to cool. And then finally heat them in an oven set at 275 for smaller stuff, and 290 for the bigger stuff. Jigs weights or whatever are hung in oven as it heats to temp, and once the set temp is reached I shut the oven off. Not as perfect a finish as a lead jig, but not too bad. Instead of powder coating you can also spray paint them. If I spray them, I but a finish coat of clear. Alloy I use is around $15 a pound. There is a learning curve to pouring the alloy as it behaves differently than lead. It expands as it cools, so at times it can be a botch to remove from the mold. No actually their always that way. Especially when pouring bullet type worm weights. For jigs I graphite coat the mold, and after pouring I give the mold a whack with a small hammer. Bullet weights are the worst! The pull pins are a royal pain to remove. I've tried using WD 40, Pam, and I'll be pouring this weekend, and I'm going to experimant with Never Seize. The items aren't as fragile as you might be led to believe. But are more fragile than lead. The way I test for lead vs alloy when I get sloppy on the work bench, I whack'em with a hammer. If it shatters- alloy. If it flattens- lead. As far as weight. Iypically pour 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 1/2oz items. Using the same molds as one would use for lead. Weight difference is negligible. Example... a 3/8oz jig should weigh .375 oz, where as an alloy jig will go roughly .355 to as close to.370oz. Density of course is different, so if you want a faster fall, just move up to the next 1/16 or 1/8 oz.

Therein lies the problem. What I've pasted below is all I see. No pictures, and nothing to click on /www.tackleunderground.com/community/uploads/monthly_2019_09/e9kEI2k.jpg.c5c4fe2b6ee921e704c3317430524e6f.jpg,monthly_2019_09/gMfDTjX.jpg.0bc5e3d4f7c87298a3bf0a95224f42cb.jpg,monthly_2019_09/sKocmtc.jpg.cf090e125defe0adf5d517630505d2cd.jpg,monthly_2019_09/swLlhZZ.jpg.48b21fe9497ff942f00405330f2128f3.jpg

This is sort of related to this forum. I'm always looking for something new so I always check the classifieds here. I haven't figured out how to open the photos that go along with the classified ads. Little help anyone? Please?

Doesn't Changeable Motor Oil do that?Looks brown, but then depending how you move it has either a green or purple iridescence to it.

The only twin tail grub mold I have seen that I like is from LureCraft. But in one of the photos, the finished bait is less than 4" when laid alongside a ruler. I tried to contact them to see if that because the bait hanging is 5 inches. But no response. I hate to spend the money only to regret it when it comes in. Any other companies out there make a 5" twin tail with thin tails? Seems like some of the other manufacturers all have some kind of ribbing or designs in theirs. I'll be using these as jig trailers, and plain on a round head jig. Yamo has dropped a lot of colors from their line up so I figured I'd make my own.

I use UV epoxy. It's pricey but the thin mixture goes a long way. In 10 seconds or so its hard as a rock.

Lunker City makes a helgie bait in a couple of sizes and colors. I plan on trying them this year for SMB, and you're right, they are like candy to the bass. Real ones anyway.

Absolutely! I had a recipe that mimicked Yamo perch color laminate. Had it almost perfect. Never wrote it down, and I've never been able to reproduce it. Close. but no cigar.

I'm not a lawyer, but I doubt it's copyright infringement if you use Gulp Recharge juice. It may be different if you're selling the baits. For personal use? Who will know? I have soaked my baits, mostly senko types in Berkley juice for 2 years now in what started as an experiment. No change in texture of color. The colors included laminates as well, with no bleeding. I'm not even sure if it made a difference in fish catching either. I just use a scented worm oil now using a scent mixed with worm oil that you can buy from any supplier., mostly to keep the baits soft.

Need something new in my arsenal, and like everyone else here I make my own baits. Now I want to make swim jigs. Which mold are you all using? There is Do it Bullet Bass jig, the Trokar Swim Jig, the Casting Jig? The grass jig? They all sort of look the same, except for the trokar which has a more pronounced angle. I'm open to suggestions.

I have a Do-It injector, and it has the locking pins on the nozzle.

Bass tackle has one that is similar. Not perfect but close.

I talked to the guys are Bait Plastics today. My thoughts were right for a change. Could be one of two things, Mix the hardpack at the bottom of the jug more better. I'm going to try one of those pant mixers you stick in a drill. And he also told me to make sure I heat the stuff hot enough. I tried to be really careful as this stuff seems to be super fragile with heat. I did get a number of re-heats with the stuff before it started to yellow a bit. So I added it to some darker colored leftover stuff.

So I ordered the Bait Plastics Ultra Clear Plastisol. Phone rings next morning, it's somebody from Bait Plastics, wanting to make sure I knew the correct application that plastisol was made for. I did. He gave me a little more advice on using it. I gotta give the company credit, I don't think too many companies would take the time out to let a customer know exactly what they were getting. OK, so hoildays are over. And today I finally get a chance to use the stuff. I did buy this as an experiment to try something, so it was no big deal if it didn't work the way I wanted, It didn't LOL. I tried dipping my homemade senkos and wacky worms show above in it. It filled the rings on the lures, and made the baits appear as though it was sealed in a tube. I was hoping the clear would be thinner. So again, no great loss. I will still use it for swimbaits, and who knows, maybe the super shiny senkos will actually catch fish. The bigger problem is the clear coating cooled very sticky, Tacky is a better word. If two baits touch they stick together, Not like glue, but like say, flypaper, I'm thinking it needs to be mixed more. Al I had to stir it with is a paint stick Measured the bottle opening ( gal jug ) and will get a new paint stirrer for my drill and give that a shot Didn't want to shake it, Can anyone here shed some light on why the clearcoat cooled in this tacky finish? I may call Bait Plastics for some advice. The baits are sticky enough that they even pick up all the dirt and whatever else is on my work surface. Like I said, this was only and experiment. I did add some clear to my colored plastics and sot a few baits, Came out great. But a bit too light, I added salt, and it killed the color some, same thing with 80 mill glass media.

I use the Berkley Gulp Recharge on a lot of my homemade stuff. Seems to work ok. I've had some of my homemade Senkos in it for 2 years now with no ill effects.

Tried to help out with this thread but when photographed the colors came out dull I've no idea why. I use spike it Phthalo Blue 112 which is close to cobalt or fluorescent blue. And Spike it Morning Dawn 160

Received the mold this week, but it's a Christmas gift so I won't be using it until after Christmas. In the meantime I'll send for some clear plastisol, and a flask of some type. This mold came from Jacobs Mold, and Machine. I ordered on Sunday, received it Thursday.And the price was right too! It's only a single cavity mold, so if I like the way it shoots , I may buy a second one to speed up production. ved

I use LureWorks Morning Dawn 160 to get the pink. Seems a lot easier than mixing colors to get one. Then my blue is a cobalt type blue. I cant you exactly what it is as the printing on the label washed off. I pour the dark colors first when making a laminate, then the light color so the hot plastic of the dark doesn't melt into the ighter color. As far as exact recipe, I can't give you that. Not because of secrets, but because of the different additives I use. I may make some with hardener, some with more salt or glass beads. Some guy helped me out one day, tournament guy. I told him I'd pour some not senkos for him. One color he requested was morning dawn. I made them to his specs, and when he got me he called me and told me they were perfect. He asked me to make more, and how much they would cost. Told him .30 each, and that the more he ordered the more he's save because of postage. Never heard from him again. Oh well guess he liked free better. But he also liked my Morning Dawn

Highlights, glow powders, pearl powders. More glitter colors than I'll use in my lifetime. I've got bottle and bottle of colorant. Some the names have washed off, so I have to play with those to see what they are. Some of those colorants look the same in the bottle. Sometimes, I''ll heat some plastic and play just to see what colors I can make, then add some of the highlights, and see what that makes and then add pearl...and so on. Who are the best suppliers of clearcoat plastisol?

I microwave my plastic, so I can use the pan method you use with a pyrex dish. Will be a while before the wife discovers the pan missing, Basically will be trial and error. The tall pyrex beakers actually hold over a quart of liquid, so while tall enough I really don't want to heat that much at once. I've been pouring plastice for over 20 years, so I'll probably figure it out eventually. My main reason for tall container was so I can dip the baits in the shape they were made, the hang them the same way to cool. Straight up and down the whole way.