Jump to content

Tiderunner

TU Member
  • Posts

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Everything posted by Tiderunner

  1. Adding a few new molds for winter pouring. So far added a cut tail worm mold, a craw mold, next up a core shot senko mold. I want to add swimbait mold next, but what I'm looking for a I can't find. Looking for a 3.5"-4" core shot swimbait mold. Anyone know of any manufacturers of that type of mold?
  2. AluminumCNC are the only type I own except for two old silicone molds from when I was first starting out. Pricey in a sense that they have a 10 cavity coreshot stickbait mold, when another producer has a 5 cavity mold for half their price. Their stuff looks top notch, but the size of some of the molds puts a lot of their molds out of reach. Both are top notch makers. Doesn't mean I won't buy other molds from them. Just can't afford to drop $200 plus on some of their molds.
  3. Interesting. I've been pouring tails for years, and never had one separate. I don't use a tail mold though. I just pour the whole bait in the tail color I want. Cut to size I want, then put cut off tail piece back in the mold, and pour the main color. I may cut tails for about 10-20 baits, the pour the main color.
  4. Sent in my first order with them. 5.75" cut tail worm. Anyone have any experience with the company? I probably should have asked first. LOL. Looks like quality made stuff. Looking forward to getting it in, and pouring my winter away. I like some of their other stuff as well, mainly the core shot stickbaits. But pricey! As always, too much month left at the end of the money,
  5. Ordered the 731 creaw from BTS Single cavity. If its the one I want I can order another as it would still come out the same as a two cavity mold. Now I' have to make a laminate plate.
  6. Thats pretty much the lureworks type. I even mixed plastic in a small jar with the hardener and shook the snot out of it, mixed into my pouring plastic and stirred some more, then stirred some more began heating, stopped, heated more stirred, and I still got lumps. even heated slow. I also poured a few dozen wacky worms the other day, and I though they were too soft. I bagged them today. What a difference once fully cured. It doesnt help either that I have two bottles of something that its contents took the writing off off the bottles. Turns out their both softeners. One sinking. Baits were wayyy too soft.
  7. a little pricey ( all their molds are ) but they do have some great stuff. Its a half inch shorter and I know there is a cnc mold out there 3/4 inch shorter, for half price. I dont mind spending but I'd want to be sure of the closeness of the finished bait. If I could get my hands on sample baits poured from both mold makers to compare it would definitely help. Body contours, weight action etc.
  8. Soooo. since I can't find the kut tail worm mold, I was thinking of trying to make my own. Am I to understand that the silicone can hold up to the high temps for pouring plastic? And how does this stuff pour? is it a thick stuff, is it a liquid? Seems easy enough to make the mold 'cept my art ability sucks.
  9. I bought a nice grub mold from him right before he shut it down I was more than happy with it. Now that I think about it, I've bought molds from pretty much everyone. Just ordered the craw mold today from Bass Tackle.
  10. What is everyone using for hardener? I used the MF plastics in the beginning, Then I used LureWorks. The MF was much better for my use. I don't use much hardener, Ive bough 3 pints in the last 4 years, and still have 2 left.
  11. Of course not. I wouldn't have enough dollar bills for fishing stuff if I did.
  12. Mine weigh about the same. I use a combo of salt and 70-100 glass beads. I mainly add salt because I've given up trying to make clear baits. Ive tried using only glass but still not clear. Color I'm most trying to duplicate is Yamo 197 It.s nearly impossible. And after the first reheat the plastisol stsrts to yellow even at low temps. adding stabilizer is no help because it has a yellowish tint to it. That's really the only color I have problems with.Yamamoto 197 Deadly on clear water smallmouth in these parts
  13. Looked through their entire website. Not what I'm looking for. But they do have a lot of aluminum molds at reasonable prices I'm intersted in. The Ktworm mold is the one I'd be most interested in. But I've only found the 5.25"
  14. I know this post is from another lifetime ago, but I can never seem to get my baits that clear. I do have a question though. Have you ever weighed your stick baits? I try to get my 5" senko type as close to 10g-11g. Thats what most senkos I've weighed come out to.
  15. Same here, I've been using the same recipe pretty much, and have been for the same amount of time. The inside of my injector is scored, but if it's still functional who cares? I've only replaced on O ring during this time.
  16. Then go first class in a padded envelope. The cost will be around $5.00. And maybe take a day longer for delivery
  17. Guess I better get my order in if I want delivery for late December.
  18. I just fish my craws on a round head jig. Bare. Although I have been tying some matching bucktails lately to use with craws, but haven't tested them thoroughly yet, because it seems every time I want to get out the conditions suck. My son will fish craws on a EWG hook, and an unpegged bullet weight.In a day fishing smallies we may go through 3 dozen baits. Snagging has gotten better since I started pouring tin jigs. Non toxic laws here in New England. The slower fall of tin jigs keeps them out of the rocks longer.
  19. Now that I'm using wacky worms and Neko Rigs more I went back to a softer bait. I want that thing wiggling like a pole dancer when it begins the fall. And for a softener I use the MF sinking softener. I test my baits by taking a commercial bait and wiggling it in my hand, and then repeat the process with my homemade baits. I do weigh my baits to get them as close to an original. Between 10g-11g for senko types. And between 8g-10g for my wacky worms. That's about as scientific as it gets in my laboratory.
  20. Anyone know is manufacturers are making a mold that comes close to Yamo's 6.5" Kut Tail Worm? Or the Daiwa Yamamoto 5" Fat worm?
  21. Ok How do y'all prefer your baits, soft with no additives? Supersoft? Or going more towards the Harder stiffer side? For me I prefer stiffer with my wacky worm stuff, and softer with my stick baits, and grubs. Been using MF soft sinking plastisol, adding salt and glass beads and more softener and even adding Clearosol to make them a bit clearer, though you don't get many reheats with that blend. . And for the stiffer I use salt and hardener.
  22. I've pretty much settled on the Bass Tackle 731. Seems to be the closest to the Yamo Fat Baby Craw. Which we fish on a plain round head jighead. Reasonably priced as well. We fish a lot of rocky areas for small mouth, and needless to say lose a lot of jigheads and plastics. So at their price I can get a 4 cavity, make a ton of baits, and not go to the poorhouse.
  23. Tiderunner

    Craws

    Who makes the most realistic crawfish mold? Looking for a 3.75" mold similar to the Yamamoto Fat Baby Craw.
  24. I've been using the 80 mil, and tried some 320 mil Injector is scratched but still more than functional after 3 years worth. Only had to change O ring once so far. I usually use half salt, half glass,
  25. After trying a bunch of different brands, I went back to MF. Mainly for their soft sinking plastic. More expensive, but they were showing free shipping. After comparing the lower cost brands, once shipping was added on, the savings wasn't all that much. Shipping costs for everybody have gone through the roof! Maybe $10 more tops per gallon to get exactly what I wanted. I'm a hobby bait maker. Just make for myself and friends. I go through maybe a gallon every 6 weeks. Did just see a notice on their web page that they're way behind on shipping due to all that's going on. Don't know if all suppliers are having the same issues.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top