Glideb8

I used way more drops and it was fine. I basically put around 1 tbs in there for 8 oz of plastic to be safe lol. I've reheated several times and no yellowing. It was kind of worrying me because the stabilizer that I was using is orangish. But yeah, I've been using the yellowed/orange plastics for dark colored baits.

haha

Good to know. I used KBS a while back and although it was easy to use, I got bubbles in places and it started going off and gelling at the top of the jar I had it in even though I sealed it and took a lot of steps to prevent that from happening. Haven't bought another container of it. Thanks!

What kind of auto clear do you use? The main reason why I never wanted to mess with it was the toxicity. Even though I have a good respirator, I really want to be cautious if I'm going to use it.

I was thinking about Spraymax 2k, but I didn't want to have to use the entire can of clear within 48 hours. With Tamco, I can measure out how much I need.

I was thinking of using this to clear some swimbaits because the clear needs to be really thin. This is a door hinge swimbait, so I can't have any thick epoxy interfering with the door hinge. I've already tried a very thin coat of BSI 20 and even that was too thick and the door hinge didn't work properly like I thought. Anybody else using this? I was thinking of buying a spray gun at Home Depot or Lowes just so I didn't have to use my main airbrush to spray it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the tip.

I know the dent is from the plastic cooling, but I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I'll try the cooler temp, but I was also going to try to just pour it into the mold to see what happens. My only concern with just pouring is that the fins won't be formed. I figured the runner might be the issue, but the thing is, the nose of the bait is about the width of the circumference of the runner, which is 1/4". I actually cut some of the mold out to make the runner a bit larger. I don't want the nose of the bait to looked hacked up when I have to cut the sprue off and eventually sell them. Of course the injection hole is the standard 5/8". Right now the runner is about 1/4" high and the sprue hole is about 1/2" high. Thanks for the help and I'll report back!

Hey there, I've made several injection molds for a swimbait that I've designed(along with a creature bait mold) and I keep having this problem no matter what I'm trying. I tried pushing plastic fast, slow, medium, holding pressure, keeping the injector in the injection hole until I see all air bubbles pop out of the vent holes, then I top off the injection hole, etc. I keep getting an air pocket close to where I'm injecting the plastic from my injector. I have a 6oz injector now, so running out of plastic isn't the issue. I've included a crude diagram to show what I'm talking about. The diagram shows a side view of the mold. What I also did was make vent holes coming directly from the eye sockets after I discovered the air pocket after doing 3-4 injections. The plastic does come out of the vent holes, but the air pocket still remains. I get a complete injection sometimes, but when that does happen, I get some weird deformity on the top of the head to where it looks like the plastic was sucked in a little. Thanks in advance!

Not really close to the same thing because that Teckel Sprinker frog has hooks on top and it's basically weedless while the tail is like a whopper plopper tail and creates the same topwater action.

Sorry, forgot to mention that. I was heating about 8oz of MF.

I bought more stabilizer and tried the MF SW I had again.... I put in 5 drops just to see if the plastic would still yellow. Heated it up, perfectly clear before it started to turn clear. When it started to turn clear, the plastic still yellowed.

I get the same thing. I have a gallon of M-F that's 3 years old and it's perfectly clear to start with, but when it gets close to pourable temperature, the whole thing turns yellow like I put yellow color pigment in it.

Thanks for your detailed response!

I'll check it out.

Hey everybody. I have some specific questions about using the SB line from Lureworks. I've called them a bunch of times to ask, but every single time I get voicemail and no call backs. Of course I'll be using a respirator. I always do when I airbrush anyways. I've already used their CoLure coat paint which is water based, but it just takes forever to dry and I'm only going to be painting accents and things like the backs of soft plastics if they are fish profiles, shad kill dots, accent colors in certain places, etc. So with all of that out of the way, now for the questions: -It was mentioned in another very recent thread, but the clear 3000 was being used as a top coat. My question is how long does the clear 3000 take to dry because the OP of that topic said that it was still tacky overnight. -How long does it take for the normal SB paints to dry with or without thinner? I thought I had read here that it took about 30 minutes to dry. -If you apply regular SB paint with a brush, will it run all over or do I have to buy the thicker, Clear Dotting 3033? -Airbrush clogs always happen, but even with using the SB Thinner 3001, how bad does the SB paint dry or clog the airbrush? I'm planning on using my Iwata HP CS unless I should get something else just dedicated for the SB paint and thinner. I think that's it for now. Thanks in advance!

What kind of to coat are you using for these? A lot of people just use really thin, clear plastisol(like Clearasol) to coat anything like this. For myself, I'd rather brush the inside of the mold with the mica powders before injecting or pouring.

I called this morning and asked some questions I had. He said that he definitely wouldn't use the Super Tough Saltwater for injection molding because it would be way too thick and would stop up the injector. I'm guessing it would be best for simple open pours. I'm going to get the normal #312 saltwater plastic.

Anybody here ever use the Bait Plastics Saltwater Super tough formula? I just want to know if it's really stiff. Trying to decide between that and the regular saltwater plastic.

Ok, good to know.

I'm making a 6" swimbait and it's not short in height like a open pour, so that's why I need to unplug the injector, then refill it to make sure the entire cavity is completely filled. Thanks for the info, everybody!

Hey guys, I had a question. I bought a plastic injector and also made an injection mold for soft plastics. I'm heating the plastic to 320(I'm using MF Saltwater) and it's perfectly fine, no bubbles, very fluid. I tried sucking it up into the injector and also pouring into the injector and the same result about halfway into injecting the plastic into the mold- The plunger stopped, so I opened it and there is always a plastic plug inside no matter what I'm doing. I've read that guys have kept their injectors warm in a george foreman grill(lol) but I'm thinking that has to be the problem. The injector has to be almost hot if not hot, Below is a picture of what's happening. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

That's a KO blank of an old lure. JDM company Fish Arrow teamed with Ken Huddleston back in the day and this was originally called the Fish Arrow Huddle Jack.

Cool. I was thinking of using a spray clear, but wasn't sure how it would hold up. Thanks, Mark!

If they're as small as that type you have, I'm going to need some magnifying glasses and tweezers.