Sudd
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Everything posted by Sudd
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Yeah but I'm talking about urethane foam not thermoplastic
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It was an idea I just thought of. But im still leaning toward Lacquer because you can thin it down and get much more for the money than powder. Am I correct on that? The colors I will be using I can et them all in lacquer except for Chartreuse, haven't seen it in lacquer yet.
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Thanks! I wonder too how long a 2oz bottle of powder would last spraying through a airbrush on small crankbaits. I'm trying to see if its worth it over using lacquer paint. Powder I know gives much better results and really a lot more color choices. Also can any airbrush be used for powder, or does it have to be a special one. I have a badger with adjustment on the back?
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So its ok then to heat urethane foam?
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Anyone ever tried powder painting foam crankbaits with an airbrush? I know you can airbrush powder, but what m not sure is how well it would do with foam. I also know you would not be able to bake the foam in an oven to cure the paint. I did heat one up a bit and tap some powder on it. It seemed to do ok, but wondering too about doing it with an airbrush.
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Absolutely!! I'm cherishing every minute of it!
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Thanks Blaze, we are coming along good with them. I got together with my dad and uncles, (The ones that designed the little earl) this past week and we got the molds right. And we turned out some very nice bodies. Now we getting the lip ready. We hope to start testing before long. We had to make new molds from the original patterns since they sold all the stuff when they went out of business but that part has come out great!
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Well I was giving a airbrush actually 3 today. They are Badger model 200 bottom feed single action. They were my uncles when they had their own crankbait company. So I know they are not gravity feed, but it saved me money other than having to buy a compressor. These brushes seems to be good ones from what I've researched. And the fact my uncles used them and made a living off selling thousands of handmade crankbaits means a lot to me. So for now these are he brushes I will be using.
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No problem yeah I just checked online and its not even on their website. Stinks!
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Yeah I looked at my local hobby lobby but all they had in the store was amazing clear. I guess I could order it from HL and still get the 40% off.
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Yea we molded the perfect lip the exact one my uncles designed, we just got to have a pourable plastic that will get hard. I honestly think the water clear will work, I just haven't ordered it yet because of getting the body molds made.
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Ok sounds good. Sorry I miss read what you said earlier and when I called she told me the exact thing you said. I bet you thought I wasn't trusting what you were saying, but I didnt mean that at all. Sorry if I came across that way! So I'm just gonna get a can of white krylon primer and spray my molds before I pour my foam and I will be good to go. Thanks for all the help! Still got to figure that lip out though
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Ok just talked to carol at alumilite, she recommended spraying the silicone mold with krylon primer let dry bout 10 min and then pour my resin and the paint would bond much better. But I'm wondering if i couldn't just airbrush a primer on after demolding.
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So you saying its best to just spray a paintable release agent in the mold and be done with it? Other than primer before paint
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What kind of paint do you use?
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I have sent an email in to alumilite but have not heard back yet.
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I'm using alumifoam for hardbait bodies, I need a paintable mold release that will insure it good paint contact so I dont have to paint directly to the urethane foam because it will not hold with the oil in the foam. Any ideas of paintable mold release? Prefer white but dont have to be as long as its paintable
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Yeah I do all my bait stuff in my 10x12 shop in backyard. So I am needing something on the small side as I'm limited on space. For the price and a good quality brush, I think I am gonna go with that iwata revolution cr and TC20T kit.
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So would the master 20T comp be sufficient with the iwata revolution brush? Sorry for all the questions. We do have our own bait company, and I'm bringing back a crankbait my dad and uncles designed back in the 80s when they ran a bait company. They were completely handmade and airbrushed.
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Ok so would a paasche GF kit with a master Comp be a good unit? I can get the whole kit for $180. Or I can get a Iwata revolution cr brush &Comp for $182. Which of these would be the better deal? Also what's a good paint to use with hard foam crankbaits? Im thinking maybe createx
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So in the GF what do you do between colors? Do you pour thinner in, spray it out, then pour a different color in? I just don't know how those work. I've only seen siphon. Also if you were me and beginning, which kit would you reccomend me get and I will check it out?
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I understand but I believe I would like just having paint in bottles and being able to just switch them out when I need to change colors.
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I will be using templates for my designs as well. So thats why I'm wondering is I should go with that paasche setup
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I was looking at a paasche with I believe .5 smallest tip, but read that you couldn't paint fine lines with it. The whole kit was like 179. I thought that was a good price until I ran across some eclipse reviews. The paasche just had more stuff for less price than the iwata.
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Are the Neo's any good or should I just try and find a deal on the eclipse? I saw TCP had the eclipse and a master Comp for $214 but idk if thats a good price or not.
