Hillbilly voodoo

So I assume the through wire method you are using is drilling through the body rather then a slot cut in the belly or back? if I am correct I would assemble the front half of the bait, then attach the the rear wire, push it through the rear section and twist up your rear loop as you mentioned wish I was far enough to fish musky easily but being in Alberta I settle for pike

You just have to join the rear and front wire harness together before installing them into your body sections. any other steps really depend on the method of through wire you choose to do for the knock it’s more about the style of joint you cut in the body. A v style joint will work to create a knock and the cadence/movement of the rear section will depend on how much space you leave for movement.

I don’t know why they are not more common amongst lure makers because the knock off rough edges way faster then hand sanding. You still need to get the final steps with hand sanding for a smooth finish I also use it to create concaved surfaces on lipless crankbaits, jerk baits, and plugs Very versatile tool for shaping, very handy for curves, and a time saver

Thanks for the answer

Thanks I will try your suggestions tomorrow Wouldn’t the laminating block also work like a spur extension?

New to this whole injecting soft plastics thing and slowly learning as I go I have a 5.6 prey bait swimbait mold and I can’t figure out why some are turning out with a hollow nose. Doesn’t matter if I am shooting one or two colors plastic temp is in the 360 range. I keep pressure on the injector for about 30 seconds after the mold feels full. Molds are warmed up on a hot plate before shooting. It’s a single cavity mold so what is this newbie doing wrong

Oh and a tip for the future cut your lip slot first thing. It’s easier to cut straight when the wood still has flat sides and if you mess it up you have not lost any time shaping the body.

For shaping I only rough things out with a knife then switch to a rasp with a coarse/fine combination. You can remove a lot of material with the coarse side. The fine side it eliminates a lot of sanding and removes the ridges The one I use is double sided. One side curved the other is flat here is a pic of one but the fine side is getting worn down because I have had it a long time By far my favorite shaping tool

It appears bug molds in the Ukraine is shipping molds again if you are looking for cheap stone molds

Not much better in Canada the only advantages is the US is close enough to order from

I use wood filler on shallow scratches or filling bubbles in resin lures without issues. A little supper glue over it after it’s dry though

The method I used was template blocks with a small handle. I cut my lexan close to shape and used double side tape to stick it to the block. Then I trimmed it up with a table mounted laminate trimmer. Lightly sanded the edges when I was finished personally I am done working with lexan now because I don’t enjoy working with it. There is so much that can be done without a lip

I have had this happen with Alumilite white if I don’t shake both jugs well before mixing. this is my theory anyway. I have only had this happen on my first pour if I have let my resin sit unused for a while. A good shake and no issues on the next pours I have a lure making room in my house where my resin is stored and all my pouring is done. So temp is always good and I live in a fairly dry area so humidity is not an issue. So I don’t think it’s weather related This is what I have experienced

Most common ones used are epoxy and sawdust mixed together or baking soda and superglue mix. For shallow scratches basic wood filler works but use a good strong sealer on your blank These are some things I have used but I also don’t carve details like scales or gills where you might want a different option

I don’t know about you but I heat set between every color personally

If you apply too much heat or direct heat or too long it becomes a problem. If you do this it will even slightly lift or bubble Using a heat gun waving is back and forth between layers for short time I have had no issues. I have had issues when not heat settings when painting baits with multiple layers. The paint takes much longer to cure properly for starters Clear coating with KBS after 24hrs on a lure with multiple paint layers( fairly thick paint job ) is when I experienced exactly what is pictured in this thread. I have experienced 0 issues well heat settings properly and I have applied KBS as fast as 8hrs after painting I have lost count on how many baits I have heat set createx and coated by brushing on KBS with zero issues. I have definitely experienced issues when I first started playing with KBS ranging from bubbles, wrinkled paint(like the pic), and just plain old crappy finishes. Thin coats, dry paint(like I said I heat set), I brush on not dip(dipping would be wasteful do to lure size is why), clean bait, and wait 24hrs between coats(the instructions say you can do it sooner but I always got bubbles) and I have no problems

My photography skills have always sucked but if I was serious about the contest I would get my wife to take the pics. She has skill and a fancy camera too complicated for me too use lol I just enter a few things for humor and enjoy seeing some of the creative entries that appear.

Not in my hands it’s not