Hillbilly voodoo

Never had any issues but I do use a primer as well

Savage gear makes a line through models without a lip. They also have models with an internal harness too But yes it’s been done and possible

Are you thinking like the storm kicking minnow

The term is a hunter or a crankbait that hunts There has been many discussions and information on this topic. Basically it is achieved by instability. This is not about any one lip shape or angle. I have achieved it with both shallow and moderate diving crankbaits One member has achieved it through a blade attachment so much would be missed retyping about it that I recommend a search on the topic

More than a few lol

I know for a fact there is some very smart members on this forum that are staying silent If you use the search function there has been some very good information posted regarding action by them over the years.

Oh and the new design looks like it has a more user friendly lip slot location

Best of luck Aulrich and if you find any issues making a profile swim you are welcome to pick my brain I have two injection molds from epic bait molds and a dual injector getting shipped too me at the moment so I may have questions I could use your help regarding soft baits soon

I learned a lot from screwing up building lures over the last 25+years. I didn’t have YouTube or much information it was just carve and see if it works There was a 10year period I built min 10 different lures a day and tested them in my personal pond. Most crude or completely odd looking lipless lures My point don’t just rely on available information only because it will limit your knowledge. If you have an idea try it experiment screw up and adjust.

Simple trick with lipless crankbaits move the weight up from the belly. The instability will give a wider shimmy. About 1/4 up from the belly often works well As for shape wider forehead wider wobble. Thinner will be faster and tighter Slope of the forehead plays a roll too best thing to do is make a few basic designs and test a few different things till you find what you like. Then make a nice one with paint and clear coat

Thanks for the offer but I try to be self sufficient so I can only blame myself if things go wrong lol

I waste very little KBS but I brush it on not dip or spray

All clear coats have their quirks but once you figure them out things go smooth I used ETex epoxy originally but after a $500 lure order went to crap after a power outage that stopped my lure turner I went to KBS Personally there is UV coats I have been interested in but they are not available in Canada

Too thick of a coat or not enough time in between coats will do that

Personally I think you can achieve better results using this style of profile over your prototype. It will be easier to weight vs the thin tail on your prototype that the hook/hardware will make it want to sink vs float Consider how the different shapes cut through the water or provide resistance. How you can funnel pressure towards lips/faces. Points of a shape that will be more buoyant. Or wide curved belly that can generate lift in the tail section. Shape also plays a roll on how a lure acts on the pause if you think about it you can can do small tweaks to natural shapes even Just something to think about

Too tired because I work long hrs to get into a lot of detail. I can get into it more on my set off in a few days if you want But I can tell you this body shape can achieve far more action wise then what most utilize. North American designs focus on baitfish profile over creating action. Want to see different shapes look at the Australian lures for example. I actually have tried a design very similar to what you have posted. Line tie will need to be under the nose or a lip that will be powerful enough to compensate. It caught fish but it was a meh design. I might still have the molds if I didn’t recycle it lip angle on cranks can very a lot depending on the action and depth your going for jerk baits I prefer a shallow angle but again this can vary but I am will end there because I have to sleep then wake up then nap then go to nightshift

The art to bargaining is let them make the first offer if you are going to hustle lol kidding aside good luck and if you need any advice on silicon molds or have issues ask I have already screwed everything up and figured out how to make things work. I probably go through about 20-30lbs of silicone a year

So you just have to mow 1 lawn and you can get enough to build multiple molds

Dave is bang on about reusing old silicone I reuse every little scrap of silicone and you would be surprised on the % of old silicone you can use in a new mold

My opinion save a few $ and get some smooth on mold max 30. You will have a user friendly material to work with that will create a good end product Its so simple to use this Hillbilly can get it done right At the worst go mow two of your neighbors lawns for extra cash and boom your good to go

Well never could get a hold of bass tackle so I won’t be ordering from them. Unfortunate because there is molds I would have considered buying from them as well But I did get in contact with bait plastics and ordered a 6 oz dual injector from them. Sounds like it will be shipped out tomorrow. So far a positive experience ordering from them The fun part of sourcing tools/materials for new projects finding those who provide both good products and services

The above and super glue can help prolong the life of a wooden crankbaits without being costly or time consuming

Welcome to TU where you can be bombarded with both simple and complicated answers to any lure making question We might confuse the crap out of you at times but you will learn a lot along the way including a solution to your lure making problem 98% of the time

Silicone will keep the details and flex so you won’t have issues remolding

Luck bugger still 2ft+ of ice on the lakes here. I won’t be fishing any lakes till May