Brick Steel

I’ve sanded lures but found that to be damaging. What’s worked best for me is to wrap the lure in paper towels that I’ve soaked in denatured alcohol. I then wrap that tightly with aluminum foil to prevent the alcohol from evaporating. This usually removes or loosens the paint enough to wipe it off. It usually takes two to three repetitions to get all of the paint off.

Two things. First I’ve used D2T and BSI 30 minute epoxies with some success but found that TrueCoat works better and is more durable. It was specifically designed for baits. TrueCoat tends to have a longer working time. I have found the others to be just over five minutes, where TrueCoat is at least ten. Also TrueCoat is a little thinner and gets less bubbles. Only issue I have with it is that it comes in fairly large bottles. With the others, I could eyeball a 50/50 ratio in the bottom of a mixing cup. With TrueCoat I have to used small graduated mixing cups to ensure a 50/50 mix. Secondly, on all 30 minute epoxies, I think they have to be turned until they are well set up and I don’t see that can be done practically by hand. I’ve attached photos of TrueCoat and my rotisserie based turner.

I’ve been finishing baits for three years and have used both BSI and D2T. It has been surprising to me that I have rarely had any problems with bubbles, fish eyes or excessive cure times, particularly considering how many people do. Recently I have concluded that my lack of issues is because I live in Florida and don’t experience cold temperatures. From what I’ve noticed, there seem to be more epoxy issues in Northern areas. So I agree with LHL that temperature is very significant.

I have had the same issue with my Iwata Eclipse and Exx1976 is correct. When I have had this problem, I pull the trigger button out, clean it and put a drop of lubricant on the lower part of the shaft and re-insert it. The trick is getting it lined up properly when reinserting. The lower part (below the hinge) has to go straight down into the shaft (?).

I use a 6 gallon compressor instead of an air brush compressor. I use a good regulator (with a water trap) that allows me to regulate 0-30 psi (I set up two so I can work two airbrushes , although I rarely have). The attached photo is my regulator setup. The compressor is in a separate closet in my garage so I don't have to listen to it when I'm painting. It is plumbed to my painting area through the green hose. This has worked well for me.

By the way, the fuzziness of some of the lettering is due to my airbrush technique - or lack of. But I'm slowly getting better.

It does well, although there is a learning curve. I used the Cameo 4 to cut the stencils that I used to do the lettering on the five inch jerk baits in the attached photo. I made eight baits using these templates. Btw, I didn't expect the fish to respond to the message, but I made the baits as gifts for our elders and ministers. I have used the Cameo to cut stencils for other patterns, but these were by far the most intricate.

I use a Silhouette Cameo 4 to cut out vinyl stencils. I imagine it would work on stick on vinyl as well.

I have been finishing Predator Pop Max Srs and really like the way them. The Predator site says, “Please take extra care when clear coating around the gill slots in the mouth so you do not plug them.” for good reason. I’ve been using 30 minute epoxy top coat and have had some issue with the slits getting epoxy in them and clogging. (I think dipping in KBS would probably be just as bad). Any suggestions for how to keep the top coat out of the gill slits? I have been wondering if there is something that could be put in the gill slits after painting but before top coating, that won't react with either the paint or the epoxy and that then could be removed once the epoxy cures. Would wax work? Could it be gently melted out after epoxy cures? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Crackle is an old topic on this forum, but I have just started experimenting with using crackle to get a veiny (as in varicose vein) look on some baits. It seems that the crackle works well on a smooth surface and not so well on baits with molded in scales and other features. I've attached two images. One before applying crackle (red, yellow and light blue) and one of the finished product. I am not thrilled with the way the back (top) turned out. It has very little crackling. I realized that the back was a little rough from sanding and not as smooth as the sides and am wondering if that could be the issue?