BigFish1973
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Everything posted by BigFish1973
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So what comes out cause isn't it pretty much a gas anyway? It seems like it would feel like air regardless
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Ok yeah I bought a can of Bloxygen, I'm gonna kbs in jar and use thick plastic wrap under lid. I will spray bloxygen in it everytime I go to seal it up. Hope that works. Also how do you know when bloxygen is empty since can already feels empty? I know this probably sounds like a dumb question
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I'm wondering if UV resin would be a Better clear coat than KBS? I mean I love kbs dip, hang, done and the shine and durability are Great. Just only downfall is making sure it doesn't start curing in Jar.
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Been using diamond clear for clear coat, but I don't dip a whole lot at one time. The diamond clear starts setting up in my jar before I dip again. I put a plastic bag over jar then tighten my lid. What can I do to preserve it while I'm not using it?
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Different prices and I usually get them at Allreds taxidermy
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Why does everyone paint now? Literally everyone
BigFish1973 replied to bassmaster0726's topic in Hard Baits
I make baits straight from scratch, two sided foam baits molded together, made by hand, that is custom to me. The paint job I put on them is straight old school nothing fancy. The paint means nothing it's all in the vibration of the lure. -
I've tried using createx paint for my crankbaits and I'm just not liking it at all. Heat set, takes to long to dry, too many coats to get the brightness I want. I'm thinking seriously about going back to taxidermy lacquers. Dries on the spot, color that just pops without multiple coats. The only bad is the fumes, but I have a stove hood in front of a window. I'm just still trying to decide what I want to do.
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Is Minwax polycrylic a good clearcoat to use on crankbaits? I've used KBS but I do not like the storage problems. And I done ev6you can do to keep it from setting up. Have been using tap the can method but I dont like brushing it on. I want something where I can dip and hang.
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Yes I did, and also the seal was on the paint as well
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Why is my Opaque black not shooting real dark? Also it's running some and I haven't thinned it at all.
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How many do you usually coat at a time before you ever start cleaning your brush?
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Does anyone know of the best NON MCU clear coat. Is MCU even best to use anyway? I mean I'm just trying to get some ideas on what I should be using. I'm thinking seriously about just using tap the can method and just dispense out little at a time and brush it on then hang them up to dry. But how do you get the stuff out of a brush once it starts setting up?
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That's what I use is Mason jars. Also I dip quick to ensure that it's not open long.
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I would use it and right before I sealed it back up I would barely lift lid spray it in there and then seal it.
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You talking about after you use it?
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I've tried the bloxygen stuff KBS makes with no luck. I sprayed in in there then immediately closed it off go back and open it and its skimmed over. I just can't use it up fast enough before it starts hardening up.
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I use Diamond clear to clear coat my baits. I have to dip them due to the quantities I make. I have a hell of a time keeping it from setting up in my jars and I line the tops with zip lock bags before screwing the top on. If I go to the tap the can method how is that gonna work when I'm dipping my baits? I have to have a good bit to dip into. Any suggestions?
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What kind of mold putty or clay should I use to make my silicone molds?
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Also what kind of rubber is that you using
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Travis how do you get those molds poured and lined up like that without a frame? If I took mine out of the wooden frames I wouldn't have anyway to line them up. But with that said I'm wondering if mine would work better if I took them out of the frames and just clamped the rubber halves together?
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My RTV is poured into wooden frames over my pattern, Then I put backs on them after I take them off pattern after they cure.
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Should I make vent holes in the RTV rubber itself or is the gate I have drilled in the mold enough? I mean this is not making sense, why they are coming out bigger.
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I can leave them in mold overnight and they still come out bigger
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Would anyone know why a mold would turn out a bigger part than the pattern it was made with? It does have a gate hole drilled into it to let air out. That's what is blowing my mind.
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It's a moisture cured urethane
