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4/0

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Everything posted by 4/0

  1. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    Kasil, Thanks. I just found them. My original search, I put vibrator motors. Not the smartest thing I've done lately. These should work and I have a battery maintainer that should run them. I'm going to try a different isolation mount for the cups. I'll post pictures when I'm done. https://www.ebay.com/itm/uxcell-DC-12V-4200RPM-Vibrating-Vibration-Motor-for-Massage-Cushion/124257480921?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 . https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-10-60V-6A-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Reversible-Switch-Regulator-Switch/112932621723 . Plan right now is to have a controller for each cup ( three of them ) since each paint seems to have a different density. Some like the Super white do fine. I have more problems with the chrome and metallic powders. Appreciate the help from everyone, 4/0
  2. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    I found that thread and I have it on my laptop. I started searching for the "vibrator" motors and it got pretty weird.
  3. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    I have to admit that I feel very weird searching on the " internet" for vibratory motors. At least my wife has not caught on yet ... Quite a selection out there.
  4. I'm a saltwater guy but I believe that jig would definitely catch fish anywhere. Very Nice.
  5. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    AP, Appreciate the idea. 4/0
  6. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    I figured very fast that the 2" cups were to shallow. I made some more at 3 1/2" and they work much better. Getting a lot of volcanos and I experimented with different paper. I went up to 24lb. copy paper and settled on 20lb. copy paper but I'm still getting the volcanos. It is worst with the chrome base coat powder from CC. The powder will just "rise" in a "lump" and then collapse. Seems to be just this color that is doing that for some reason that I don't know. I did find that using a 5" cup for those colors worked better than the 3 1/2" cup for a standard color , say Super White which does fine in the smaller cup. I don't know what the output of the pump is. I use them for to keep Shrimp and mud minnows alive in 160 Qt. Igloo ( might be bigger coolers ) coolers. They seem to run forever though. The "tap" method is frustrating but I can see the learning curve. I'll just have to spend more time on that. Couple jig pictures below of my recent disasters. I wasn't sure about starting a separate thread for the jig pictures?
  7. 4/0

    Fluid Bed Build

    I'm learning a lot here and haven't had anything to contribute since I'm staring out with all of this. I read this thread and thinking about what Kasil was describing I built this below. It has three 3" cups that I put 3x2 bushings in for 2" cups . I could not find aquarium valves so in Lowes I found irrigation drip line valves and also bought 1/4" drip tubing. The drip tube miked out at .275 and a 19/64 drill bit miked at .281 so I pushed the tubing in through the drilled holed and put a little bit of silicone around it. I'm not sure how deep to make the cups? I cut these at 2" and used the knockouts with tyvek paper. I three cut with just caps to keep the base cups covered when not in use. First thing I am seeing is that a 2" cup will be too small I believe since I will mostly be using 1/4 to 1 oz. and that will not give me enough to room to " swish" the jigs . Some will be 4oz. and up that will be used on the reefs offshore. I thought three cups for a base coat, second light color coat and one for a clear coat. I've been researching the " tap brush method " and have found quite a bit information for detailing and adding depth from Cadmans posts. I wasn't sure where to put this up so I put it here. So here are a few pictures.
  8. 4/0

    New toy came today

    Will Do. I'll put a couple pictures up when I get them done for some critique.
  9. New vise came today. Has a nice feel to it.
  10. Perfect. Do-it has one that is 153.50 shipped ( without the adapter). Seems to be the best number I can find. Hagens site is 173.20. Believe that I will have more versatility with this tool than the other options. Thanks, 4/0
  11. Kasil, Thanks for your time on this. I looked at that unit and almost bought it until I read the description. Product Description Make your own custom Barrel wrap wire leaders with ease. The E/Z Twist Pro is so simple to use, you will be able to make hundreds of leaders in no time. In fact, some of our customers have sold their leaders to tackle shops to generate extra income. No longer will you search for the perfect length leader for your rigs, simply make your own and always have them ready when you are. Wraps are consistent and look professional. This model wraps wire from 5 to 15 gauge. Make the eye right on the unit, no extra tools needed. All replacement parts available. MAKES BARREL WRAP TWIST ONLY (NOT HAYWIRE TWIST). For Haywire Twist, see #1250 and 1251 The Dubro site has a different "Head" that you can buy to convert it to haywire twist for about 65.00 including shipping. I think I'm going to hold on this and decide between the Hagen and the Twistech. I believe the Hagen can make R bends for spinners but I will not be going there. I could possibly make umbrella rigs, they are very popular here trolling for Spanish macks. The Hagen might be a better choice for that. I'm not sure about that yet. Vodkaman, No feathers ruffled here. I've used the Dubro Pro before and you make a single double hook rig pretty quickly. That involves four twists. In your spread for trolling you would have one double or sometimes a triple pogie rig ( pulling two or three live baits in a row on the same rig 12" to 16" apart). A triple rig is eight twists and six trebles with the swivel. So the twister is nice to have. Thanks, 4/0
  12. Kasil, Appreciate the reply. Some guys down here in the southeast carry those on their boat. They work ok with #5 malin wire to make a couple. If you rig for Wahoo you are using #9 Malin wire and you will wear you fingers out pretty quick. I was thinking more around starting out with a couple hundred but for what they want for the Dubro I'll be lone gone before I recover any of that cost. I have a couple other rigs that I'm going to make that just require a barrel wrap. So I'll weigh the Hagens vs the Twistech. Thanks, 4/0
  13. Do any of you know if you can make a haywire twist with the Hagens Tool ? I can't seem to find and a clear answer searching. Dubro has a tool for making them but they are 375.00 or so. Way out of my ballpark. Thanks.
  14. I appreciate the help from everyone. Cadman, I am very familiar with the Mustad Duratin Hook. It holds up well. I used to fish the 7731AD exclusively when I was running offshore. When I sharpened the hooks I would "paint" them with a black Sharpie pen. That would keep the the points from rusting. I eventually started "painting" the whole hook black with a sharpie and noticed increased bites with Wahoo and more fish in the boat. The Redfish are mixed in with Flounder here and you can tie into a 15 lb. fish and have a nice surprise. Of course we are fishing oyster beds so a lot jigs can be lost. The price you pay. I will send you a pm. Also Thanks for the advice on wire size. I will have to get my mic. out now. Butch
  15. Thanks, I am learning the wire size vs. strength. I was thinking that you could have the same wire size and harden it with tempering. I can modify the mold, don't have a problem there. Since what I have now is .035, looks like I need to start with the .046. Make three or four and see what happens.
  16. Appreciate the reply, Any ideas on the wire strength ? Or somewhere I could find it ? I don't want to buy a lot of hooks that are going to keep bending. Already have 400 of those. Thanks, Butch
  17. Hi All, Was going to put this up earlier but we have been dealing with this storm. I have been experimenting ( look out) with making some jigs. Just using nail polish for now till I figure out the bigger problems. I have one of those now. Poured a few jigs from the Do- it Ultra mold. I Have a Lee 20lb. pot that bought , all is good there. I tied up two of these jigs 3/8 oz. with natural Bucktail . One with red thread , one with dark green thread. I tipped the jig ( green thread ) with a mud minnow and caught 11 flounder. Lost a nice fish 20" or better. Because the hooks are straightening out. I had to bend the hook back after every fish. Hook is a Eagle Claw # 570 BP ( bought from Captain Hook ) using them in 1/0 , 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0. So I need a stronger / better hook and I am looking for advice on hook strength or wire strength . This is exclusive saltwater but I like a black hook. I like the " less is better" mode when fishing. Appreciate your help with this one . Thanks, Butch
  18. That is a windon swivel. We use them for offshore trolling going from braid or spectra to a fluro carbon leader. My fluro used to be 75'. I have a picture I will attach that has three Sro swivels. One is your windon swivel. The next is a Spro Power swivel #8, it is a 50lb. one and pretty small ( we use those for Kingfishing and they excellent eyesight). Next one is a Spro split snap. This one is pretty big but you can them smaller ( we use these for jigs and mirro lures working the marsh grass for Reds & Trout ) . These make it quicker to change out a lure without tying another knot. Mustad makes one these snap swivels that I think is better than the Spro, but I can't find them down here. https://www.google.com/search?q=mustad+fastach+clip+sizes&rlz=1C1EODB_enUS532US653&oq=mustad+fas&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.17194j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Another option could be just tie direct to nylon coated leader with a Thumb knot, not sure about line twist with that though. The second picture shows a planer bridle with the windon swivel. Hope this helps.
  19. Oh yes. I understand that. You should have seen the look on her face when I pulled up the house with a Grady White Gulfstream hooked up to the truck. But she's put up with me for 30 years. She also thinks I'm crazy doing this. I'm retired now and we talked about it some. I'm going to go with either the second Griffin or the Apex. If This starts to work out the Saltwater vise will be under the tree. Going out to get a airbrush and parts to build a fluid bed, either three or four chambers. Thanks.
  20. Thank You. I would have to hide the receipt for that one. Appreciate the help.
  21. Appreciate the reply. The jaws look different on the Spider vises but they both have the same name. That has me confused. Which can be easily done sometimes.
  22. Hi all. New guy here from OIB NC. I'm going to be tying some jigs, all saltwater. Weight from 1/4 oz. to 3 oz. Looking at these three models and also open to any other options ya'll might have. https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Odyssey-Spider-Tying-Vise/dp/B0002O069O/ref=pd_sbs_200_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002O069O&pd_rd_r=675GJVXZY8GJDE244G5W&pd_rd_w=Isfz7&pd_rd_wg=oEchn&psc=1&refRID=675GJVXZY8GJDE244G5W Jaws look weak on this one to me ^ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MO5AHIY/ref=psdc_3409431_t3_B0002O069O same name but different vise, seems better built ^ http://www.jsflyfishing.com/wolff-indiana-apex-vise#!reviews-wrap I like this one. ^ Sort of between the second Griffin and the Wolff. Thanks for any advice, Butch
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