RedRum

I think I want to convert an entire barrel to a smelting station, that way I can stand and pour. Probably open up the top so that I can set my burner top into the hole and run a propane line into it. The edges will double as a surface area for molds as well.

I was considering aramid fiber though I have no experience either way.

I have a Riteheat pot with a heated spout and I’m not having success using the ball valve threaded onto heated spout on bottom of pot. I need a steady flow for pouring baits and the ball valve I bought doesn’t maintain the heat and clogs. Does anyone know of a specialty ball valve that will work? It’s 3/4”

Calhouns! I stack tubes in plastic boxes and some are still around from years ago, bone dry! Calhouns will never leech a hint of oil, ever!

Well heating six 8 cup Pyrex in the microwave sucks. The only way I’ve lessened the suck is to have 3 microwave at once- 2 - 8 cups per. It’s still a pain. I’m pretty sure I need an industry grade agitator tank or else I’m playing with microwaves all day

I thought of the hot burner. Have you done this before? Let’s say 3 gallons on hot burner. Basically I’m sure that would require a constant stir or it’s burnt but I’m not sure what the timeframe on 3 gallons to temp would be.

Any hacks/recommendations on ways to quickly heat up larger volumes of plastic besides the microwave? Larger volumes being 1 gallon +

That’s funny! 10 seconds before I saw this thread I was thinking about how TU is the worst for ads!!

Dutch oven iron pot I believe is what it is. I could use 1/2 the barrel but the stand up height of the full barrel is pretty attractive

I’m thinking about cutting open the top of 55 barrel and welding in parts of bayou classic and running the fuel line and burner in from a hole in side of barrel. Anyone have such experience?

Harder lead crumbles or breaks. Soft bends

How many?

You would hope after 4 months of going back and fourth on 1/2 measured attempts to solve the problem that might be the case. It was not! It was clear and deliberate avoidance in dealing with it correctly in hopes that I would go away, which I did on simple principle that I don’t want to do regular business with someone who operates like that and don’t have the patience to deal with someone who sends insults as solutions to the problems they’ve caused me. After everything we talked about on the phone and she told me, it’s clear that they’re running an oaky operation without procedures, QC/QA or good manufacturing practices. I’m way more happy with Calhoun plastics.

Most companies I would hope would cooperate better. It was deliberate stalling and several attempts at anything except just solving the problem. I gave up. She won! I’m sure that’s what she was pushing for because after she royally fukt the last attempt and didn’t follow up I knew she didn’t care about my problems. I don’t want to do business with someone who handles customers like that. She never followed up anytime again to see why I hadn’t returned for business, knowing that there wasn’t a solution.

I don’t understand what you’re asking

That’s not what happened. I do understand that LC hard packs instantly and needs to be mixed really well. The problem was the chemistry of what happened specifically to that batch of plastic that was nothing like any other batches of LC I had used in the previous year which was quite enough to have mastered the characteristics of the workability of the plastic. Hands down it was an unstable batch without lot/batch# or any QC/QA and the issue was never honored. I agree it’s a fairly good formula when it works right but it’s over priced and the hard formula lacks clarity.

Yes that’s what she told me. It’s mixed/produced in house by her annd her only and not a plastics facility like Calhoun. No lot # or anything like that b

Yes, if your plastic is good and you’re using heat correctly, you can remelt several times and still make pristine baits QA baits. I always cut up in smaller chunks and add a little fresh plastic, sometimes stabilizer but there’s stabilizer in new plastic.

Heads up to lurecraft plastics! I got some very inconsistent plastic from lurecraft. So inconsistent and bad I would have never bought that again if that’s what it was like the first several times I used it. I got nowhere with her trying to rectify situation and it was 50 gallons worth of hell. She had no clue what was going on either with her plastic or how to manage her employees. Calhouns plastic is better and surprisingly considerably better priced. Calhouns cures way more clear and does not hard pack like lurecraft. If you can’t handle 55 gallon barrels direct from Calhouns, you can get it in gallon and 5 gallon from Fat Guys fishing.

I’ve been using free barcode generators for years in several stores. No issues “yet” I’m sure that when/if I transition into a more corporate model and deal with big box I’ll be purchasing and re coding all of my stuff.

no replies! Reason probably being is what’s in the claims is what actually matters. A patent lawyer would be the best way to decipher those claims. Sometimes patents are the most minimal feature/detail just to be able to swing around a patent schlong and scare people off. I’m not a specialist at all but as far as fishing lure patents go, it’s a tough way to say because we are all inspired by previous works (ie. Flukes, lipless, swim bait etc) and at the root of it all we’re all copying a fish, crawfish, worm etc which all look very similar to each other (within it’s category). As far as that fluke goes, it’s more than likely not the bait that invented the fluke and quite possibly not the first fluke with a patent on it. Usually the most notable patents are patents that are more utilitarian/systemic concepts that have never existed before and revolutionized a process. Unless you’re knocking off that fluke, I wouldn’t worry about it much.

Yeah that’s pretty much the answer I was looking for. Thank you.

Does anyone know where to get a UV powder comparable to DO ITs UV Blast Powder that they’ve been sold out of for years? I don’t want color UV powder

I rig thousands of tube baits. I use worm oil in the shop and pro cure or any other type of oily scent when I’m on the water. Bottom line is it doesn’t matter exactly what it is, it needs to be lubricated and oil of any type is going to work.

I’m in the works to have a swimbait mold cut and I’m curious of your experiences choosing between a 60 or 90 degree jig hook and the differences in the final product in terms of action. Im leaning towards 90 degree and I definitely am after a dynamic, stable, steady jighead that doesn’t effect the movement of the bait at all.