RedRum

I also have the same issues as Landry with Specialtyresin silicon molds specifically!! I have to pour remelts through them as using an oven or microwave to pre heat them is not enough. Doesn’t seem to be as pronounced with other silicon like polytek or alumilite. Molds/masters are clean! Once it breaks in for the day, the baits come out smooth as clean glass, but it’s a grumble to get to it. My guess here is there is some sort of chemical/gas release taking place despite de gassing, unless it’s de gassed a second time right before it goes in. Whatever chemical trace or film is left behind, inhibits the release of the gas. Not really 100 on this because it’s my experience and I don’t have the science to explain it. It’s a real drag and I just can’t produce efficiently when this happens. So I like the shore 60 idea which I’m going to try before switching out all of my molds This might be a case of getting what you pay for. A gallon of specialty is way less than a gallon of say polytek.

Thanks! I’ve got most the parts for a stir system

Is anybody using a presto with a spout for disbursements of plastic? Any potential issues or good things to know?

Why not RedRums?

I’m probably not good at it but cutting threads screws up the tips when they are locked down

In an effort to produce resin blanks, I get varied results from one blank to the next with really small bubbles that end up almost impossible to sand out or seal over. End results are a silicon mold that reflects that BS! I can’t degass because it sets up to fast. Any ideas on how I can resolve the issue?

I’ve tried that. Works good but the work needs to be done so close together that it heats up too much and breaks the braze. The reality here is that I don’t have the time to learn tig just yet and found that it was much easier and painless to have a welder do it

Very innovative idea. Nice

Check out Lurecraft. They have several open pour molds that are what you desire. From there you’ll have to get creative on what hooks and what you do with them. Plastisol, glitter and or pigment, a few 1 cup glass measuring cups and a microwave specifically for plastic only and you’ll be good to go.

BP 312 floats

I have it. It’s definitely very soft and solid product

Bait Plastics

Bait Plastics is solid and there’s several formulas to choose from. Definitely pre heat your mold and don’t get air in the injector. Make sure your plastic is hot enough and sets up all the way or it’s not gonna shoot right.

Hand poured baits get bit. They don’t have to be 100% perfect. Just a thought. You could use a laminate plate for your injection mold Lurecraft sells a plastic dispensing gun. Perhaps that could help with layers but most likely it sounds like practicing and feel is going to get you the results you’re looking for with either method.

3rd that

Tube mold, injector, Pyrex glass, plastisol and pigment/glitters to start. Gloves and a thermometer might be helping too

I might be able to help you out. What’s the internal diameter of the tubes you’re looking for and are you looking for traditional skirted tubes? Mine are straight

I would like to take up tig welding to get aluminum rods welded to aluminum and or steel. Very light pieces to be joined with minimal pressure on them and small welds. Tac welds would be strong enough to do the job. I know nothing about this but I would like to purchase a used welding kit and take it up as a new hobby. What I do know is I’ll need TIG but as far as what types of welders will accomplish this I have no clue.

What solvents are good to use for cutting/cleaning up plastisol residue?

I’m looking for advice on how to use my riteheat pot to get plastic to temp and avoid degradation. It seems like if I put the plastic in and set it to 350ish it doesn’t quite get to 350ish. It seems like I need to go higher first and then set thermostat. This seems to have potential for overheating and degradation. Im sure I’m doing something wrong. Once I’m at workable plastic, the pot keeps me rocking as long as I need. I stand by and stir as it gels but it seems like without the lid on it just won’t get there at 350. I’m not sure if I put the plastic in, set it and cover it and come back to it later if it is good for it or not.

Yeah definitely

Well good that you brought it up because I wanna modify a mold to accept rattles. I’m thinking to dremel the cavity to the rattles I prefer. What did you do? And thanks for the reply

This definitely helps. Thank you

Problem not solved