Cliffs Lures

I see a lot of post where people are heat setting Createx paint. If you read the tec sheets on the website they say not to use heat on any of their paints. This causes a thin film of latex type layer and causes adhesion problems. That might cause lifting with clears. I have never had a problem with the KBS or Epoxy. Createx is all I ever use, mostly Wicked and Illustration with no heat.

That's a great idea, I could see these lined up on a wall. You could display any thing in these.

You need an AC tig machine and argon gas. They make small machines for welding thin gauge aluminum but cost is pretty steep. A 200 amp Lincoln or Miller can run around 1800.00 to 3200.00. If you can find a used one I would look at these two brands, Aluminum needs AC and pure argon with a tig torch. If you look on internet there are online video's that teach you every thing you need. If you need to tack small rods 1/4" or larger you can use a mig machine with spool gun. I have the Hobart 190 with spool gun and it works good on 1/16 to 1/4" plate. But if you need anything smaller go with a tig machine. Hope this helps.

Careful, once you start you cant stop.

Here is what I use. Iwata custom micron CM C Plus. Only had it since Christmas but Really like the extreme detail. Iwata HP CH I am using this more and more for detail and colors. Iwata HP C have had this for almost twenty years use it for base coats and pearls. Iwata HP BCS eclipse. One of my first airbrushes still use it use this when I paint a lot of blanks with base coat, Badger Sotar 2020 I bought this for 60.00 on Amazon Prime just couldn't pass on it. Not my favorite but its Ok. Last is the NEO TRN1. I really like this for heavy bodied paint. Has a wider spray pattern and pearls go through it pretty good. I don't think you can go wrong with any Iwata product but I have seen a lot of great airbrushing with other brands, mostly use what you have and practice until its time to move up. Hope this helps.

My vote would be Iwata HPC Plus. Has a finer needle and a stop adjustment. It will spray a very fine line or medium wide spray pattern. I have the first version and has been great for 20 years. It cost a little more but I think in the long run they are worth the price.

Use opaque for base coats. Use pearls for under coat for effects, Use transparent over pearls or opaque or for fine details like scales. Colors are really for the user to pick. just get what colors you think you need for the lure you want to paint. Green, white, yellow, red, and black would be a start. Just buy a few colors at a time to see what you like. You will have more paint than you need in a few months.

Those look great.

I just switched from Wicked to Createx Illustration paint. It goes through airbrush without thinning and dries quickly. The colors are amazing. I painted this yesterday and dipped in KBS after only an hour drying time. This is all illustration colors on this lure. Even base coat.

I built it myself, This one is a Corian base. Just 1/2" PVC pipe and 8mm x 22mm skateboard bearings. The shaft is glued into the base but the T and 90 are left unglued so you can turn it to any position while you paint. The T has been cut off on two ends so the bearings seat into the T Also heated the t just enough to get bearings to pop into it. The Excell brand knife holder has to be sanded just a little on the knurling so it slides into bearings. Only took a couple of hours to make them. I like the way it works.

Here is my lure turner, drying wheel. It works with magnets so I can use forceps to clamp onto lure When I use epoxy coat. I can get 8 lures on at a time which is way more than I want to do at one time.

I would recommend an Iwata NEO or Eclipse, They are both good for painting base and detail. When you get comfortable using them you can move to upper end. Also the NEO trigger airbrush is a lot easier to use for a beginner,