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Big Epp

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Everything posted by Big Epp

  1. I got one of these done with the lip in the original position (it was already cut). I did change the line tie location. Overall it swam well. It was more consistent when the line angle was parallel to the surface of the water. When I held the rod at a high angle it seemed like the lure was fighting the angle.
  2. Big Epp

    It works!

  3. Big Epp

    DSC07400.JPG

    Looks good man!
  4. Also don't inhale the fumes deeply while smoking a cigar! (or maybe just don't inhale it at all? Your call on the cigar, although it seems risky to me).
  5. It appears to be (and I think it ways it is). I'll often fill a canning jar with it, quickly dip my lures, and then test them that way before putting anything else on it.
  6. Hey! There's a lot of people who will put a layer of epoxy down over the wood to seal everything and create a smooth surface for painting on. I often will use a coat of minwax wood hardener for a similar function. It seals the wood and creates a hard surface. After applying the hardener I'll sand it again to get a smooth base. I think there's some added value with using an epoxy base coat for muskie lures, as it creates some added protection from fish teeth. That's not something I need to consider most of the time, as I'm targeting bass primarily.
  7. My dryer vent detaches easily from the inside. I have some extra dryer vent material that I run from my spray booth to the dryer vent with a small vent fan to pull the air. Someone gave me a hobby spray station that has a filter and fan included, which is really neat.
  8. Big Epp

    10 inch baits6.JPG

    The elusive "Smuskie!"
  9. Big Epp

    10 inch baits6.JPG

    Man, these look SO GOOD!
  10. I mixed some hobby glitter into ETex Light and it worked fine. It was courser glitter, so it took another two coats to get a smooth finish, but everything set up well and looked great.
  11. Oh that terrible moment when I take a batch of jigs out of the oven and realize, "shoot! I forgot to clear the eyes!"
  12. Thanks guys! I figured I was getting too much paint on, but not sure what to do differently. I'll try one of those racks. My toaster oven is a pain to use for jigs, and that would be really helpful.
  13. I found out a guy I went to high school owns a sandblasting and powder place. I got a bunch of samples of various colors. My problem is the paint seems to be dripping off the top of my jig heads. I usually use a heat gun, but today I used a lighter. I rotated the jigs in the flame for about 5 seconds before dipping them in the paint. I moved them to a toaster oven when they had cooled and baked them at about 300 for about 20 minutes. Any ideas?
  14. The last "wake" i made dives about 4-6 feet...
  15. I very much appreciate the variety of perspectives on this site, as well as the wealth and diversity of experience! I generally take a very unscientific approach to all this, so I try to glean what I can when I can. That's a very good point about the shock absorber too. I was sort of thinking of tossing this with piece of rebar and 65lb braid, so I'd better take some of those stress limits pretty seriously... The first bunch will all have the lip in the original position, as they are already cut, and then I'll adjust as needed.
  16. Kinda feels like I'm showing you my underwear here...but this is what I'm thinking. How would you work lip location to avoid interfering with the front hook? I saw a video from he engineered angler where he figured angling the front and rear line tie and hook hanger helps with overall strength.
  17. Big Epp

    5 inch crappie

    This is my first attempt with this profile, so it's got a pretty quick and dirty paint job.
  18. Thanks guys! Redwood is incredibly boyouant, so I'll definitely be adding quite a bit of lead. I like the idea of using a hardwood instead. I wouldn't need nearly as much lead, and the stronger wood would certainly reduce the risk of lure failure. I traced my pattern and altered the lip location. Let me know what you think.
  19. Hey all! I'm working on a small swimbait/wakebait. It's maybe 3" long and my blanks are about 3/4-1" thick. I'm going to use the pin style joint where the connection comes out of the back end and is pinned into holes in the front end. What size drill bit would you use to make the joint holes? I've got some made of redwood and some made with PVC. Do you have any concerns with the strength of this style of joint? Any concerns with it splitting or tearing out? I've only done one lure with this style joint, so I'm very new to this process... thanks!
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