Outlaw4
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Posts posted by Outlaw4
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31 minutes ago, Jig Man said:
I use gate shears.
do you have a link (or name) of ones you use?
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How are you guys getting them off? Have started making some small jigs and having some trouble getting sprues off cleanly. Using slightly hard lead. Around 5%.
Its hard to hold them and break sprues off, and so far anything i cut them with leaves a flat spot.
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i think you could make that work. in my jig buying days if i could have bought a hack attack jig with 3 included chigger craws id have been all for that.
obviously lots of trailers for lots of situations but in whole getting a trailer designed for a jig seems like a good idea
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anyone have a good source for gold foil? not real gold, just shiny gold color
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need a pretty good flat surface on top with fairly square shoulders
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i wanted to make some soft plastics back during pandemic when lots of stuff was sold out. i bought an injector couple molds and plastisol from do it and honestly it seems to be fine for my low volume personal use.
if i was doing lots or selling or doing really specialized stuff, but i can shoot some craws and worms and go fishing whenever now
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yeah i was planning on doing myself if its feasible. just wasn't sure if I was missing something easy.
maybe ill get a couple of the gold powder coat options and give that a go and see. maybe could spray some gold chrome airbrush over black powder that would look good.
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im guessing this has been covered before but i missed it if it did.
needing to gold plate some jigs. doesnt have to be real gold of course but shiny gold nonetheless. what do i need?
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you can also run line ties through the lip slots. do this all the time with thru wire. i just drill a hole or make a notch thru the lip.
maybe could use circuit board to keep thinner slot?
i personally like using screw in hook hangers / line tie on a new bait until i can get them in the right spots for sure. i do this on baits that are eventually going to be thru wire as well. i hate hooks that tangle with each other or on the lips. once you get that dialed then glue some in.
if you are going to add any bevels to the joint to get added movement, i think maybe it'd be better to have the pin joint on the second section of the body. but im no expert here so may make no difference
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ive had issue similar to that if trying to use faster setting epoxy. it starts to set up before it can evenly flow.
not sure what you are using. id try a long curing like tru coat or etex, then mix for five minutes by a timer. thin with a little denatured alcohol if need be and put on the rotator overnight.
With a thicker coat of tru coat i can actually see the epoxy leveling out when rotating for several minutes before it evens out, then its just about cure time.
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good hooks the right size. single best reason to build your own.
wired on skirt. second best reason to build your own.
the rest is kind of personal preference. head style, arm length, wire dia etc...are all just tools for what you want to accomplish with the bait
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ill try to put a pic up later if this does not make sense.
if you are thinking a jointed bait like a wiley or what not, you can make open loops that the tag end goes back into the bait and tight wrap the other end to pull the open end tight into the bait. Then do the opposite on the other body part. There are a couple of good videos on youtube that show this. try searching saltwater lure building.
This make a solid tight thru wire joint.
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i use epoxy thickened with west systems 404. Can make as thick as you want.
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18 minutes ago, Outlaw4 said:
you dont happen to have a picture of this do you? i'd be interested in seeing how to do
NVM lol i see the pic in the other post
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On 5/7/2022 at 8:25 AM, Jig Man said:
It worked flawlessly today.
you dont happen to have a picture of this do you? i'd be interested in seeing how to do
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not sure if you ever watch any of Randy Blaukats youtube stuff but he did a night time spinnerbait one awhile back. Might be a good start.
i dont bass fish after dark much, but do do a fair amount of musky fishing then. I have had a lot of luck with black bodies and chartreuse blades. Especially when there is a little moonlight. If its more dark moony then the golds, black nickel, silvers are maybe better.
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59 minutes ago, Steen said:
Thanks for the comment. Hmm maybe something oilbased would work better, I'm not sure. I've texted him now, maybe he can help me out.
We've waited a few hours between the paint and the epoxy. We'll have an eye on the mixture and try mixing it longer. Thanks
Try waiting a full 24 hours or more. It can take that long or more for some paints
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how long between the paint and epoxy? paint can be dry but not cured and that can make a mess sometimes?
also if two part epoxy make sure its mixed more than sufficient. i set a 5 minute timer for mixing, its way longer than you think lol
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Anyone have experience with? Do they run well? Mold well?
I'm thinking of getting a set (if i can find).
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Wake bait is up next on my to do list. Always wanted to build one just never seem to get around to it. Planning on a good size bait like maybe 6" or so minus the tail (if one).
Any tips from wake bait gurus?
Lip angle, joint segment ratio, tails, weight / balance?
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i thought maybe it was Alumalite, but could have been another place that had a chart to match wood densities.
ive not made a resin bait but hoping to experiment with it this season some
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man ive caught a lot of bass on a green pumpkin hack attack jig with a 4" chigger craw. it'd be a great way to build confidence.
ive had good success with jigs on clear water fishing deep weed lines. most people figure jigs for shallow water but sometimes bass really like the vertical fall, and most strikes will come that way, often you'll just see your line move.
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Coating jigs
in Wire Baits
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and its really fast, it just one coat and is dry to the touch in minutes. have to deal with aerosol fumes like anything sprayed but its not too bad