2marshall8

yah this a good post. I'm just starting to make my own baits and love doing it. I've purchased a 3m respirator along with a p100 filter and don't smell a thing with that respirator on. although I don't wear a facemask and get teary eyes after a while and have noticed a slight headache, so I know I'm still in-taking. I am curious if others can chime in on any health issues they've run into after doing this for many years. thanks

I got some of the lurecraft micro bubbles which are actually small hollow glass kinda like what is being talked about here. I'll work with it and post my results. I'll head all the warnings around respirators, fans turned down, add more dye due to glass causing lighter colors, etc.. stay tuned. my goal is to make baits similar to the z-man elaztec w/o all their negative properties and lack of fluid action u get from plastisol. we will see.

Is this the best method for this? https://www.systemthree.com/products/glass-microspheres?variant=13268254276&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8rT8BRCbARIsALWiOvT9o8eyQ-_0lsi9g06GV-zPZ6Ugjcq6-ileIjUYIG707BAQg-9JGigaApb

What was the result of using lurecrafts micro bubbles? and what ratio did you add them? I just ordered some and am trying to make some lizards and worms float up behind a carolina rig so they don't touch the bottom and pickup the dirt/grim/weeds, kind of like z-mans elaztech products.

I've been using dead on plastics and put them right into cooler water after use and not noticed issues related to what you are seeing above. which brand plastic was it?

Hows the action compare on that 702 from BTS compared to a strike king rage craw, or rage bug, or another "flanged" type craw?

ok so the idea is place them on this thin plastic which fits into the size of the bag and which also has worm oil, so after they cure, it's just insert into the bag, tilt the thin plastic upwards and they drop into the bag. yah It is a good idea. As I've been shooting my first molds recently I'm definitely feeling the loss of time and ways to cut time and maximize production. the worms in the original pic above are from a 3 cavity drop shot worm mold which when adding the chartreuse tails put me around 6-12 baits per hour depending on how many bubbling mistakes I run into. How much product are you pushing a week?

this sounds like a lotta work to get them into the bag but I don't have experience like you Ap ;). Couldn't I just spray the bag or add my scent to the bag drop in the baits . and maneuver them around with my hands in the bag until they align properly? or will that not work as simply as I'm saying?

My other question is, will the baits soak up the scent after they are cured for 24 hours and placed into the bag? Or has this curing made them less permeable not allowing the scent to properly soak into the plastic? thanks

I don't follow how cutting a milk jug would help with uniform packaging into a bag. I guess I don't understand what shape is being made by the milk jug. Are you cutting it in half and using the bottom half or top half and putting the baits with the scent and oil into the top or bottom half, than transferring them to the bag? thanks

Yah, hanging them by the runners makes it easy to cure em but yur right thats a lotta plastic wasted for other baits, so this was another decision I am facing. I've got them on a cookie sheet right now. regarding placing them into the bag, toadfrog, I like your process. Did you find that adding drops into the bag was not as effective at scenting the plastics, and how much extra waste are you incurring when spraying? Also, I've seen companies add salt to bags to keep the baits from sticking, Is worm oil a substitute for this? thanks everyone for the continued advice.

I've added these to the gallery. I ran into some bubble issues as you can see on the tails in a few of the baits. not sure if anyone has advice on why this occurred or not. thanks everyone for your help. Regarding curing, what do each of you do to cure the baits so they maintain their correct shape, and when do you bag em and add scent?

So with all the cnc aluminum mold companies out there how do you know what can be sold on the open market and what cannot along with what can be used for duplication? Everyone copies everyone else, so this still seems like a grey area. I have a feeling that 1000's of small time bait manufacturer's who are creating these baits in their garages and selling on ebay, social media, or even just small time in their local area are violating these laws. So, the discussion kinda needs to head towards what end the "original" makers are willing to go to chase after all the "potential" violators. I doubt they care about all the "mom and pop's" who are doing this.

Cool thing is it's a free consultation. But yah I hear ya, I'm sure I'll end up using some of these molds for myself only. thanks everyone.

Thanks for this. I have a scheduled appointment with a patent attorney next week and I'll pass on his official response afterwards.

Reviving this thread a little because I'm curious about using glass beads over salt. Is the debate still going on 4 years after this last post?. seems like for selling they aren't good due to durability, and they do create more translucency than using salt which can be good or bad depending on the color yur going for. There's also the tendency to scratch the injector. Where does everyone stand on this now? https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-lbs-Glass-Bead-MIL-11-120-200-grit-Reborn-Doll-Coarse-Media-Abrasive/173988314772?hash=item288282fe94:g:Y-0AAOSwRs1dSWUh

Here's what I want to know regarding ordering from baitmold or any other foreign company who sells "prototype" molds which are close to another manufacturer's design but not identical. Am I allowed to shoot plastics in those molds and sell them under a completely different name than the real manufacturer sells them? Is this enough to avoid patent laws since everyone copies from each other as has been said above. If the answer is no: this is patent violation, please send me the links to the articles explaining this. thanks

I tested all of these ideas and wd-40 made the largest difference, allowing the injector to keep a smooth continuous action when sucking or pushing. I have to keep re-applying as you stated TU, but this stuff did the job.

what is your ratio for how much scent you add to a bag of plastics so they absorb the scent properly?

put up a pic.

good advice. So these are actually more valuable after they are broken in :). I'll definitely do that. thanks

I just got a dual injection 6oz from basstackle and when sucking or pushing plastic it's not a smooth continuous action and I will have these moments where the injector just jerks upwards or downwards very fast, so I have to quickly stabilize to compensate for when it gives way like this. I've put injector oil on the o-rings and also sprayed wd40 on the inside of the injectors and it doesn't help. any ideas on why this is?

anyone know a low cost bulk alternative?. this scent stuff is expensive. I just ordered 8oz of tripple threat from upperhand scents and after doing the math doug is saying it takes 1-2 tbsp's per 1 cup of plastic. an 8oz bottle (16 tbsp's) would get me about 8 cups of scented plastic which is probably around 40 or so baits. that bottle is $22 shipped.

good advice. thanks regarding saving money making yur own baits, I'm surprised to hear it's tough to save. Yes I get there are up front costs but when you get those cleared away yur just talking dyes, glitter, plastic, correct? does this still out weigh the costs when paying $4.99 for a pack of baits? I would guess a gallon of plastisol would get ya close to 200-250 baits and that gallon would be around $30.