william cohen

Yes, that is what I was thinking. I have some steel blades if I could make them vibrate, I would be very happy. I'll deal with the rust later. lol. I thought of the top first, but perhaps the bottom more lift?

Interesting, I wonder if filing down the blade hole you would increase the speed at which the blade turns in the water?

The ponds I fish Bass are the largest nothing over 10 lbs. Nothing with teeth.

My rod is 7' long. medium light. I use only braid 10 to 12# with a fluorocarbon leader. I live on Hatteras Island NC. Fish the ponds on the island. Don't own a boat yet. When the fish are in the ocean I'm there.

To balance the spinner properly there has to be a ratio between the body weight and the weight of the blade, beads, wire etc. Even though this sound like a ridiculous question I don't know the answer. Do you include the weight of the hook?

thank you!

TU Member 38 Author Posted just now Mudbug, the 3/8 oz is the body weight. I've made the mistake of not weighing the whole lure. How does wire size affect blade and lure rotation. and vibration?

smalljaw I want the vibration I'm not getting it on the heavier lures.

I have only used french spinner blades. I'm just a beginner.

I am confused about this subject. On 1/4 oz spinner I have good vibration at any spinner speed. At 3/8 oz at a fast spin i get a slight vibration. At slower speed I do not perceive any vibration. I've tried to balance the spinner by moving the weight more forward. Changed the size of the clevis from 2 to 4. Starting with #3 French Spinner Blade graduated to a to a #5. Changed the size of the beads. The only thing I haven't changed is the wire which is .30. Only wire available at the time. I would say this may be my problem, but I used it on 1/4oz without a problem.

You could apply strips or circles from a paper punch?

Reading Jed Davis , Spinner Fishing for Steelhead, Salmon and Trout. He suggests putting the tape on the back of the blade. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this technique , compared to applying the traditional way? What is your opinion?

I said play dough wanted to say clay.

TU Member 30 Posted just now I have used Bondo Body Repair many times in the past with good results. Here are some of the good things abt it . Easy to use , Can be thinned with lacquer thinner for more detail. When thinner is used there are no bubbles to contend with. I use play dough to set the original in to do 1/2 mold . Not so good things. If lead is too hot past the pouring stage in time it will warp the mold. I've never poured more the 30 or 40 objects , after that it looses it's detail. Mold has to be clamped together. Be careful when clamped if the is a small exit in the mold you could get burned.

I'm partial to single hooks for my spinners. I'm looking into tubing. They are made from different composites. Don't know which to choose, for the shank of the hook. ID would be very useful. I am also thinking if making a weedless hook out tubing or a plastic worm . Thank you for your help.

Iv'e made molds out of "Bondo" car dent repair. Fill the spaces let it dry.

From what I've read , the preferred way to add additional weight to spinners is by adding the weight to the hook. I don't understand the reason?

Mark any special brand name?

I can't make toast in the morning and your suggesting I use a soldering gun lol

thank you for your info mudbug that clears up a lot questions.

Since I'm a beginner at this I did not think of the "pop". You would have to do a comparative study. I agree it would not hold up to toothy fish.

This is a rubberized compound. I don't see why it can to be used over powder paint. crystal clear. I've used it lead jig heads. This is an outside covering for leaks .Shelf life , I've had my can for 3 years, you must seal the can as quickly as possible it dries when exposed to air. I use a small amt, in a plastic cup, and cover can and seal firmly. You need a miniscule amount to cover one blade. I use an artist brush , buy on Amazon very cheap. Discard after use. After 3 years the jig heads are fine. PS The first can I purchased I left the the top off over night .In the AM it was rubber. It's sold in all major stores. I bought a small can to seal some leaks in my roof, did a good job. Thank you for your questions. The only complaint I have is that is not a smooth finish because of the texture of the rubber.

I have been using Flex Seal as a final coat on my spinners instead of epoxy. It adheres well , self leveling, dries in 24 hours,1 part mixture, apply with artist brush,1 can will last a life time. The reason I'm posting this is , it seems I'm the only one using it. Am I missing something?

Here is something that works. Took 2 inline sinkers and cut kerfs in the opposing sinkers. Slid a piece of wire thru each sinker. Super Glued them together The kerfs gave extra strength to the bond . The kerfs were filled with glue which made it a strong bond with no gaps.

I have been successful by placing masking tape over the pattern trace out the design ,place the cut out on the tape, make the cut out a little larger then the traced form. By making the cut out a little larger your going to have an over lap but just a slight one. It's easier to find the border I trim with a sharp razor blade. A dull blade will bunch the tape. It's work intensive and slow. But, it works. I'm always looking for better ways.