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Chris Catignani

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Everything posted by Chris Catignani

  1. You could always try cutting it in with a more suitable plastisol at something like 4:1 or something. This is how I got rid of some I had that was not really what I wanted.
  2. If you were part of the B2B program you could buy: MHX blank, Fuji Aconite guides, Fuji reel seat for under $70. Maybe it would price out at about $100 over the counter. I would put that rod up against just about anything. There are ways to get better deals...etc. One big leg up for knowing something about rod building it you can repair and modify your own rods.
  3. I'm liking the twisted wire...sometimes a solid through the body wire. The wire is easier to get o-rings on. Like @Fishwhittlersaid, once it epoxied in place...the bond-to-wood is stronger than the wood itself.
  4. I actually have one of those...its for threading a sewing needle. Perfect...thanks. later... I went and got the threader and its a lot shorter than what they have on TW. So...thanks for the GREAT tip...its on order.
  5. I was also thinking along those lines... I think it would make a Beaver enhanced with a couple appendages. ...along with slowing the fall and creating turbulence.
  6. I looking to add rubber strands (like on a spinner bait skirt) into various plastics baits. Not looking for them to be part of the mold. The lure would have some resemblance to O.S.P. dice...except not look like a die. Just curious if anyone has done this and what they used to needle in the strands.
  7. Makes sense...what I have seems to run pretty good in the water.
  8. Allen...thanks for the input. I was also wondering about that. This is how it lays in the mold...and have thought about modifying the mold. Is it common to bend those wires at the head?
  9. You should be able to click on My eBay (on the top ) and click Purchase History.
  10. What the length you using for those...and where did you get em.
  11. I'm making a few spinner baits and was wondering about the spacing between the blades. Currently I'm using a bead, 2cm tube and another bead...and that seems to work pretty well. Just curious as to what others are doing and why.
  12. Does anyone have a recipe for the motor-oil that when looking down on it, it looks green and when you hold it up it look translucent brown? Like the Charlie Brewer Slider Motor Oil color.
  13. Good to know....what about when there's a bunch of bubbles...Is that getting close to burn?
  14. What does it look like when you "burn" your plastics? I keep reading about it and figure I probably have done it and maybe didnt know. What are the ramifications of burning a batch? Is it ruined?
  15. This is a pretty good stencils for scales. My daughter has a flower shop and these hold the blooms together during shipment. If any body wants one shoot me an IM with your name and address.
  16. I kinda like balsa because it easy to carve. If I find that Im gonna be somewhere where Im going to be really bored...I bring a block of basla and my carving knife. Plus...I have a huge discarded display case, for floats, that was made of balsa!
  17. My daughter has a flower shop....some varieties come in with a mesh sock over the flower...this is what I use for scales.
  18. Probably the best solution...I did however lightly spray the tail with clear acrylic sealer and it seemed to do just fine.
  19. I have a glide bait that I'm airbrushing and it's a thread fin shad...aka yellow tail. So I put a tint of yellow on its brush tail and I'm thinking about giving the tail a shot of acrylic sealer (Mod Podge rattle can). My thinking is that the yellow airbrushing wont hold up without something on it. Any thoughts on this...or other ideas?
  20. I'm gonna add another question to this same thread. In an effort to salvage the gallon of Crystal Clear I bought I'm thinking of making a hybrid version of plastisol...something like 2 parts DoIt Essentials 1 part Crystal Clear. Has anyone ever mixed these two before?
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