Chris Catignani
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Everything posted by Chris Catignani
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I've been use UV glue to hold em in place....then the lure (eyes and all) get an epoxy top coat.
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@JD_mudbug Amazed you know all those!
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Sometimes the lures will have the manufacture name on them.
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No...that's not (totally) correct. What @RiverSmallieGuy is referring to is this: If you mix up a set amount of epoxy...say in a small cup. The thick mas of epoxy will set off an exothermic reaction and set up really fast (as well as get hotter than hell). By spreading out the epoxy you are retarding that reaction ...thus extending the life of the pot. There is no discernable difference (in cure time) in applying a thick of think coat of epoxy.
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I needed some white for the bottom and didnt have any so I just went black. -
Rust-oleum Flo. Green Leaks Around Nozzle Base
Chris Catignani replied to Fishwhittler's topic in Hard Baits
You can try and use some of the replaceable caps...you will actually get different sytles....$5.66 Montana Interchangeable Replacement Spray Caps | Jerry's Artarama (jerrysartarama.com) -
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Here is where you would adjust the feet from @Go55 inamge
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You need to hold the wood down. Most scroll saws have an arm you can adjust to hold the piece down. The problem you will have is that sometimes the piece your cutting is really small(ish) and is difficult for the arm to hold it down.
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Cutting Lexan with a scroll saw is no problem.
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Most catfish rods are: medium, medium heavy and heavy. Kind of depends on the type of cats.
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You step on it and the saw goes...you step off and it stops.
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You should also consider getting a foot pedal...something like a Wen WA0392. Its about $30 and can be used with just about anything with a plug.
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jig heads melting while curing powder coat
Chris Catignani replied to mark poulson's topic in Wire Baits
A lot of lead baits...etc... have a combination of lead-tin...sometimes as much as 2/3 of a spinnerbait head can be tin. This actually help make a larger profile. I bet those jigs are not 100% lead (melting point is 621 F) but are part tin (melting point is 450 F). -
You cant really tell from the picture...but the epoxy has some pearl powder...just a tiny bit...but it looks amazing in the sun light. The pearl powder is from Do-It for the plastic baits -
I agree with @Apdriver it looks toast. If you happen to have some other scrap pieces of rod...you could cut a sleeve and slide it over that spot and epoxy in place. You would need to take all the guides above that spot off first. Preferably a piece of fiberglass. What can happen if you used a sleeve it that now its stiffer then the area around it and sometimes will break right at the sleeve edge....but sometimes they hold up.
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DSC06824.thumb.JPG.21dd38d03d21dd15f7d5c6a45b4abfce.jpg
Chris Catignani commented on Chris Catignani's gallery image in Hard Baits
Thanks...This is what the thread fin shad look like here. We call them "yellow tails". -
Looks amazing... -
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Love em... -
How does the lip wire attach? I know thats a little vague. Is it twisted? How long? Sorry for the Q:'s...I been looking for some kind of instruction on it and havent come across any yet. -
Love it...I got a mouse Im doing that Im gonna use flock on...will post something soon. -
I think epoxy is pretty durable.
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Crankbait Lip and Nose eye, Belly Weight Epoxy
Chris Catignani replied to chachybaby's topic in Hard Baits
I use several different kinds of epoxy...and at times it just depends on what Im doing... One thing that's relatively new that I'm using is UV resin. Its easy to apply and cures in seconds. I did buy a UV torch for it. uvBeast V3 365nm....and the resin.
