Chris Catignani
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Everything posted by Chris Catignani
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I'm not 100% sure on that one. Its only going to be a problem if its in the sun day in day out. Some colors don't care about UV...and some paints have UV inhibiters. Like I have some Golden paints that say, "formulated with 100% acrylic polymer dispersion"..bla..bla...UVLS. UVLS stands for Ultra Violet Filters and Stabilizers. I'm sure I'm getting some of this wrong...but for me...I try not to worry about it a whole lot...unless its the color yellow. If you ever see these old four color prints on the wall were the grass and trees look blue...it because the yellow has faded out of it.
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One thing people dont realize is that a UV inhibiter in epoxy is there only for the epoxy...and it only for a limited time...and that may change. But the material under the epoxy is still subject to UV discoloration. Take hard wood floors for example...the epoxy may not yellow due to UV inhibiters...but the wood will still discolor. Source on UV resistance
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Something to think about... I've noticed that when I soak a lure in my Linseed:Paint thinner (1:10)...it will bubble for a bit. So...I think a more fluid concoction will pernitrate and seal deeper...thus better.
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@RiverSmallieGuy The have an epoxy that called Rod Builders epoxy that does have a faster set up time...its not 5 minute...but more like 30 minutes to set up and longer to cure and get hard.
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The key word here is "vibratory".
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I have some Evo Dyne I got at Micheals...not real particular about a brand...just came across it and I was out.
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The Crappie is 33.5 gr and the bluegill is 32.5. This is without the hooks. As it stand now...these baits will just submerge...kind of a wake/glide bait. There pretty thick...and took a lot of weight to sink em. Im really still learning the carving, wiring, painting cycle. I had dismantled a display that was made of balsa and using it up. -
No...its all good. I actually was doing some base coating with rattle can.
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Nope...
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I remember that Rebel made plastic baits like that...locally we called it STP Motor Oil. Slider made a "regular" motor oil that was brown/green.
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Love it...I only aspire to get that quality with an airbrush. -
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Glad I came across this...I was trying a 60/40 mix and it was just taking way to long to dry. I have since cut it with 50% more mineral spirits...and drying time is way shorter.
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I use a Gerber utility knife.
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I have also bought this lamp/torch UVbeast uvBeast Black Light UV Flashlight V3 365nm MINI - FILTERED Ultraviolet
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So FlexCoat makes several different products. The have a Rod Builders epoxy that sets up relatively fast...it is basically used on rod handle assembly. Then the High Build thats used on thread...and its sets up a lot slower. I have use the High Build on lures...you just need to keep it turning for a couple hours.
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Check out Jerry's Artarama... Liquitex Replacement Nozzles | Jerry's Artarama (jerrysartarama.com)
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Thanks...I realize now that I was using the wrong kind of base coat... -
Well...still ironing out some kinks in the airbrushing. This is a glide/wake bait. It floats but about 95% submerged.
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I will do a base coat with rattle-can.
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What kind of "chip" are we talking about? If its big and you think it might jeopardize the integrity of the blank.... ...you could just wrap some black thread over it (like a guide) and coat it with finish.
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stepping over from the plastic lure side
Chris Catignani replied to bassstump's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
That looks great! -
American Tackle Carbon grips
Chris Catignani replied to B BUG's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
I was at American Tackle today and looked at those carbon grips..they are sweet...it a totally hand made part. -
I have used two part epoxy on baits and it seems fine...you also have an option of UV resin.
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The Alumi UV gel you bought should work on the nail foil...as should just two part epoxy.
