Chris Catignani

I think they would look and feel pretty good on a rod. A little bit pricy.

Yes...its a wall mount and is installed about three feet over the bench. This actually has another purpose...which is to air out the garage when the boat is wet.

I have an iPower 12 inch shutter exhaust. 940 CFM. I installed it over the work bench...it moves the air pretty good so there was no need for a hood.

Piece of PVC with cap w/ bolt through...attaches to drill. I didnt quite get the hole in the cap exactly dead center...but this actually causes a little wabble. The tube is long enough to hold three bottles.

I saw a piece where a guy made a small vibrator for his fluid bed out of a computer fan motor.

I am loving the carving more and more...

I would think that one of the problems with a spindle lathe would be that the piece would have to be symmetrically straight like a baseball bat or a table leg. A lathe would not be able to cut eyes, fins, a lip...or even have a tail curving down. I have made some lures with a 3D printer (straight PLA) and was not happy with the result. First of all, sanding PLA cant be good for the lungs. It's defiantly harder than wood. I have had some latches I made pretty much just break after a year of so outside (UV). I probably should have use something other than PLA. 3D printing is a little new to me so Im sure there is something about it I'm missing. I do know they make a wood filament that 70%PLA and 30% wood derivative (haven't use it). I do think eventually 3D lure making will be popular.

@wallyc14 What (IYO) are the pros and cons of salt vs glass? I just started pouring this year and havent used either. I've remelted lures that had salt. Just curious about the properties, cost...concerns.

I have seen this being done...and now it makes more sense.

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I've noticed that it also tends to sink in the mix...never really been a fan of salted baits either.

Good to know! I've only cut one lip so far and I used a scroll saw. My current eye tie was just a screw epoxied in place...I just feel like I might be doing some damage by bending it to tune the bait. What I may do in the future is to just use wire when I have a lip.

@Travis Thanks for the building procedures, good sage advice...but what I was looking for was: Say you have your bait ready for fish...and it runs just a shade to the right. (and up to this point all my baits have been solid carved body (not split). How would you go about shaving some of the lip down to bring it back center? I know its a little trivial...but I feel like I'm standing on the shoulders of giants here.

I am looking for some advice on tuning... I'm making some baits and cutting my own Lexan lips. Wondering what is a good procedure to get the bait in tune. For the sake of simplicity, just running straight. I've been using closed eye screw (at this point) and they are epoxied in the bait. So...I'm not really looking to be bending those to tune. Looking more for tips and procedures for shaving the lips. I may just be over thinking this...

A lot of time you can take off the butt cap and slide new material up the handle.

We use to call the red tint motor oil "STP" motor oil.

I can honestly say I haven't had any problems with Do-it plastisol.

Those prices seem ok. But I would also think about and possibly factor in: The price of the thread...which you may need to buy...and it may have trimbands. Will you need color preserver? The epoxy...maybe even two coats. The mixing cup(s)...the brush(es)...the clean up (acetone). Then if you have to take a guide off...a guide with out color preserver (epoxy only) will take a little more time. If your trying to make a living out of rod building...dont sell your self short. Keep up with your time and material and then ask yourself...is $5 enough? The cost to do 1 guide that needs two coats and color preserver: 2 brushes: $0.20 (maybe use a reusable brush...but you still have to clean it) Color preserver: The acrylic stuff will last forever...but I personally dont like it and use a lacquer kind with may last...or it may evaporate on ya. (skipping cost) Epoxy. Say you buy FlexCoat Wrap kit with Syringes. 2oz Hardner 2oz Resin @ $15.00 That would do roughly 20 batches. I mix 3ml of each component. I can do 1 guide or two whole sets of guides. So this is almost $0.75 a batch. Now you can buy bigger bottles...and use less mix...but this is what I do. The reason I use 3ml is to reduce a margin of error on a 1:1 mix. Acetone is $9 a quart...about $0.30 an ounce. I will use about an ounce cleaning the syringes. So...you can see that Im almost getting to $2 or more on supplies. (let alone the cost and time getting those supplies). Again...this can be the cost of 1 guide...or the cost for two whole rods of guides.

Love your videos Skimpy...thanks.

One thing I have done (and this doesn't necessarily apply to jigs)...is I have applied several coats of epoxy first then put on the applique...be it glitter or a decal. This give it a lift off the surface...kind of a 3D effect.

I will also have to go with PermaGloss.