Peshtigost

The pictures are taking a long time to download. Open up the classifieds and wait a few minutes for them all to download. I just checked and that is what I had to do.

Making some inline spinners and have been using Siwash hooks by Gamakatsu. Although they work, they seem heavy and big for small panfish/trout spinners. What hooks are you using and where do you get them?

I have tried the Twistech and now own the Hagens. I liked the Twistech and thought it did an outstanding job. The only thing I didn't like about the Twistech was the larger loop eye it made. On small trout and panfish spinners it just looked awkward. I have the small diameter loop dies for the Hagens and love it. If the eye loop diameter is not a concern, The Twistech is great. Minus the eye loop diameter, both of these wire formers are well built and fully capable of making great spinners.

Thanks smalljaw, I did see that video at TJ's. I could have them done at Worth, but for painted blades there is a 200 blade minimum. I will check on the Quick Coat lure markers. Otherwise I will have to make a template and tap the color on. Either way light colors over the black is probably going to be a two step process.

I am spraying both sides. I would hang the blade vertical on a wire through the spinner hole, heat as needed (probably more than once) using a heat gun and spray both sides. I have t0o many blades to do using the brush tap method, and by doing both sides at once I need the blade vertical. Once the blade cools, the plan would be to put the dots on with some sort of paint, reheat and spray clear coat, and then bake to cure. My concern is what paint to use for the dots that can take the reheating for the clear coat and baking. The Devcon solution leaves me having to rotate the blades while the epoxy drys to keep the coat even. I am also concerned about the extra added weight of the epoxy.

I like braid but hate tying mono or flouro leaders on all the time. Maybe I'm lazy, but if I wanted to spend all my time tying that many knots, I would start fly fishing again! I switched back to mono because of this for years and was happy as can be and didn't lose fish. This year I tried the co-polymer lines and am even happier. I Have used YoZuri and love it! I have also used Berkley Fluoro Sheild and really love that! Next season I will also try McCoy. When I used braid at first, I tied directly to the lure. I caught a hell of a lot fish. At some point in time from what I read and was told, you absolutely had to have a leader. For some reason I had a sheep mentality and did what I was told..... I have a friend who still to this day ties braid directly to his lures and catches a lot of fish. He says the guys that think they need leaders can pay him for fishing lessons!

Hello, I am looking to powder paint inline blades with the spray gun setup from TJ's Tackle. I want to spray inline type blades all black. After the black I want to add dots to the blade, say 3-5 contrasting dots (yellow for example). I know I am not going to spray these with powder paint because you can't put a template on a heated blade without the template sticking to the previous coat. What I want to do is get an eye dotter and some sort of paint to dot on. Let this dry, reheat, spray with a clear powder paint, and cure in the toaster oven. My question is, what paint can take the heat of reheating for the clear coat and baking in the oven? I have airbeds and have done tons of jigs in powder paint. I am worried if I dip the blades, they will get too heavy. Also there will be drips when curing on some of them. Spraying powder paint puts a light coat on that doesn't run when curing. I know how they do it at Mepps. They spray lacquer paint, both color and clear coat, and then pad print the dots. Too expensive of an option for me, plus the whole dealing with lacquer fumes. Anybody have ideas???

I have made tons of spinners and have dealt with what you are dealing with. As stated above the inertia of the blade will cause rotation. I put inline swivels on the eyes of all my spinners. This prevents line twist, but blade inertia will still cause the rest of the fly to rotate. To overcome the blade inertia, any weight you have added to the wire would have to be connected to wire. Just placing more brass beads or bodies on won't solve the issue because they are just riding on the wire and the blade inertia will rotate the wire and your hook. I have tried using a swivel at the back of lure that I attached a split ring to and the dressed hook. This did help, but the extra length and the new pivot points would allow the hook to tangle up with the spinner while casting. In short it somewhat solved one problem, but created another. Next I used EWG hooks with large plastics on the back that had a high profile along the length of the body. (example 3-4" shad type bait) These would rotate about 30-50 degrees to one side. It drove me nuts, but not the fish. To solve this, I bought EWG hooks that had lead weights molded onto the bottom of the hook. 1/8 oz. worked the best. Solved this problem but created the next, and that is now the spinner rode tail down. Solutions was to add more weight to the wire behind the spinner, now the spinner was heavy as hell! One solution to overcome blade inertia is show in the photo below. If you look at Mepps spinfly or other flies, they are tied so there is no right side up! They rotate and it doesn't matter because there is no top or bottom! Minus the solution shown in the photo, you are fighting a fight you can't win! Trust me, I have been through this battle!

We just started doing the brush tapping and are getting some really neat results.

Today I made my 16 year old kid sit down with the fluid bed from TJ's, 5 of TJ's removable cups, and 5 jars of 2 oz Pro-Tec powder paint. I told him to make it work and show me each color when he had it right. He got all five colors working great. He took the full TJ's cups and dumped each back into it's original Pro-Tec jar. He then took one color at a time and added powder to to the cup a little at a time and played with the air until he got it fluid. The trick for him was to add about 1 oz. to the TJ's 2" diameter cup. He showed me every color and they were all fluid. If you tipped the cup to side it was as fluid as a liquid. Took him about half a hour and when he was done, he asked me if there was anything else I needed him to do. If any else has problems, I suggest you get a kid to do it!

I am going to play with it a little more later on tonight. I assumed the filters that come on TJ's cups would solve all my problems, but that is not the case.

I made one of the You Tube fluid beds with a 2" union and had less than stellar results. Finding a filter that would work good was hit and miss. Got one color to work good and the next day it was volcano city. After more testing and trying things I decided there were two issues. First, the filter was of inconsistent porosity and the cheap plastic aquarium flow control was junk. Threw it in the garbage can..... Next up I ordered a fluid bed from TJ's Tackle. His solution looked to solve both problems by having a filter media made specifically for powder painting and a better quality flow control valve. Unfortunately after a couple of hours of testing, this pile is no better than a home made one. Only one color worked well and that was pink. All paints were Pro-Tec. Black was impossible. We tried filling the cup fuller and that did not help. Per help from TJ's, he had me twist the cup to get a better seat around the cup, that did not help. On the black when slowly turning on the air, the black powder would raise about an inch, drop down, and volcano. Stirring did not help at all. Air flow adjustment did not help, it was nothing or volcano. Fluorescent Orange was somewhat okay. We could get it to boil somewhat with a few volcanoes, but it still spewed over the cup. Fluorescent Yellow was not much better than black. Chartreuse wasn't any better the Fluorescent Yellow. It looks this is another one for the garbage can..... Time to look at vibratory systems.