Hand Crafted Angling

Do you guys add worm oil I was just putting it straight in

I got the unmarked lure bags from bait plastics

I tried using some pro cure bait oil dumping them in my lure bags. It gets all nasty and dried out after a week or so. Does the super gel work better?

Upper chamber is empty for boyancy and 35% infill

They are slow floating a dive to 5 feet with a nice wobble. I use ball bearings as weights and make the weight chamber a bit bigger to give it some rattle

I made a 3d printed squarebill if anyone is interested. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5553393

Yeah the molds burn through that resin fairly quickly. Most of the molds I’ve tried use 3/4 of the bottle

I figured it would be nice to have a collective list of 3D printed lures to download for everyone here. If anyone has lure files they don't mind sharing drop a link and I will add it to this. Currently I have only one hardbait but there's a squarebill that will be posted within the next two weeks. There are also two large striper baits that will be added after the end of the year. There are also a bunch of soft plastic molds. Any lures I make in the future will be added here. I have plenty of ideas they just take a little while to make. My lure downloads: https://www.thingiverse.com/hand_crafted_angling/designs

That’s crazy the resin I’m using is $40 usd

So I was browsing here and I saw a lot of posts talking about there if resin being tacky after curing. I don’t have any experience using it as a clear coat( I literally have my first test piece in my uV box now) I do have some decent resin printing experience. Sometime resin prints have the same issue being tacky after curing. This happens because oxygen inhibits the reaction that causes the resin to harden. The method in resin printing is to submerge the piece in water and then stick it under uv in a clear container of corse. This prevents the oxygen from contacting the outside layer and lets it cure. Obviously this would have to be done after it sets up. If I ever encounter this problem I will test and post back here but if anyone runs into that issue try that.

I’ve never attempted it I think the heat deflection temperatures of most resins is pretty low. I use petg for mold on my fdm and that works decently well. It’s deflection temperature is much lower than that of the plastisol but I’m not sure resin would compare. Plastic is a bad conducted of heat. I’m assuming your just trying to save on resin and money right? You could prototype single cavity molds or print out just the lure out of any resin so you can see it and judge if it will work or not.

You could print a very thin stencil on an fdm printer. When it is super thing it will be flexible

I have a few molds I’ve printed out of resin and fdm. The resin is much nicer than the fdm at a higher cost. No later lines and no warping issues. If your going to use resin get the syriatch sculpt. It’s the only really consumer option that can handle the heat. There are others but they are a lot more expensive.

Thanks! They are a hair over 4 inches

Been lurking here for a while finally made an account. I made this rain bait mold on my 3d printer. The files can be downloaded here for free if anyone is interested:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5471523