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Does KBS Diomond Clear need to be stored in a mason jar to keep it from going bad or am I fine just putting the lid back on it?

Has anyone ever used anything other than epoxy to add clear to lures? I've noticed lots of people using that but is there anything else to use like createx gloss top coat? Why is epoxy so popular does it not scratch? HELP PLEASE!!!!

Hi all, I am new to the site and hard bait building. Last year I started lure making but stuck to easier lures like bucktails, spinnerbaits and some other hair/fur type lures. This off season I have decided to try my hand at some deep and shallow crankbaits and some dive/rise jerkbaits. These are for personal use only, I may give the odd one to a friend but I have no intention of selling them. I have spent the last several months reading a lot of material, includign a lot on here, and trying to figure out my plan of attack and have finally come up with the following process. 1) I will be using primarily cedar, western red and eastern white. Both easily accessible and reasonably priced. At some point I may try some different types of wood but chose cedar as a start. 2) I will seal the bait with a couple dips in sanding sealer. Sand with fine paper after it dries. 3) Apply a coat of primer paint. 4) Paint the lures with acrylics. To start we will just be using brush on paints, we used to paint for a hobby so we have the paints and brushes etc. In the future we will look into an air brush. 5) Insert dive bib on crankbaits or dive tail in the jerkbaits. I will be using 5 or 6mm Lexan for my dive bibs, and I have dive tails from lure parts online. 6) Coat with a couple layers of ETEK as the clear coat. I will build a turner. I will be using primarily through wire construction, by cutting the lures down the centerline and glueing the two halves back together once the internals have been put in the correct places. I may build a couple with screw eyes just as test specimens. I have found the template for the Grandmas so as a starting point I was going to try some minnowbait style lures, thickness of baits will likely vary from the originals so I plan to modify my lip accordingly, I acknowledge this will be a trial and error process. As it will be with all crankbaits in determining the best bib shape, angle, size, line tie location etc. With all this said there are still a couple of factors I am racking my brain around and was hoping some of the builders here could provide some insight. Q1) Any recommendations on a decent primer paint to use. I am not sure I even need this, maybe a white base coat will be sufficient over the sealed bait. If I need primer specifically I would prefer a brush on or dip as I do not have the room to be spraying aerosol paint cans. Q2) What is the avg thickness or weight addition of the clear coat when using ETEK. I will likely do 2 layers, more if needed, and I know this will vary by bait size and builder but is there a general thickness I could use to try and estimate the weight I will be adding with the clear coat. Off the top of my head I was thinking around 3 mm additional thickness, on each side. In my view determining the weight addition by the epoxy, which on a 10-14" bait can be a few oz, is more important than the actual increase in dimensions. I figure the extra size can be overcome with a bigger bib, only time will tell with some trial and error. Q3) Has anyone ever discovered any type of relationship between bib and lure size, they are willing to share. For example the minnow baits I am attempting will be similar in shape to Jakes, Grandmas, Shallowraiders etc. However my bait width/thickness will vary from these, especially until I figure out the additinal thickness I add from the clear coat and paints. I intend to use similar weighting locations as the named baits do, I found the Grandma templates online, and I will adjust the bib size according to the lure width (potentially add more width on shallow divers and more width and possibly length on the deeper divers). I plan to use linear extrapolation to come up with the starting bib sizes. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I will post any findings I make as I embark on this adventure. Thanks Mark

I've made the switch to KBS last fall and production time really has increased for me. I'm getting the the point where I'd consider myself a high-volume painter and every step counts when trying to get baits to customers, especially the ones that wait til the last minute to order. Although KBS cures quickly and is virtually dummy-proof, I can still see where some steps can me eliminated that are causing time delays. For instance, I have to clean the hook hangers after each coat so it doesn't build up enough to peel paint. I think spraying kbs would help eliminate that and speed up my production. So my question is, who is spraying KBS and what are you using for a ratio? I figure I'll just get an small volume HVLP detail airbrush and get things started. Any help would be appreciated.

Wassup Guys!!! Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Got a new job and had a little girl a few years ago so time has not been spent in the shop. I recently got back out and building again so I am trying to see what the latest is on the all purpose, do it all, dippable, one coat, dries rock hard in 5 min no turner needed brilliant UV stable top coat. OK now that that is out of my system... I am fully aware that the best finish is purely subjective and probably never going to be found. Thus, I am looking to see whats the latest on top coats. From what i can dig up its basically still the same from 3 years ago... Epoxy, DN/MCU or in some cases concrete sealer. Well I have tried DN 4 times and never could get it to last even with utilizing all the bloxygen methods so I am kinda fed up with that stuff. Epoxy even decuopages have all cracked and failed over time and so it will kill me to finish a bait knowing it only has a few years to live. My go to 3 years ago was 2 part auto clear but now with California restrictions on VOC I cannot get the good stuff anymore! I went goodies shopping a last week and bought 2 concrete sealers to test. One is lacquer based and one is Acrylic xylene based. From my tests they both react to water based paints but very differently. The acrylic one is temperamental and if you do a good heat treat and put the createx top coat on it will be ok, but the lacquer is opposite if you use the top coat it tends to crack and react more. Both seem to produce a very hard finish but it seems both are prone to worm burn. Other than DN, Epoxies and Auto clear what finishes are not susceptible to worm burn? I still have my lure turner I can go back to epoxy if I have to but I know there is something I can buy in CA that is a better option. Also, I never liked water based finishes because they all seemed to turn white and soft if there is prolonged water exposure like leaving them on rain soaked deck. Maybe putting a final layer of polycrylic over a concrete sealer may work for the worm burn though? Advise and suggestions welcome...actually I am begging for them! Cheers, Matt

I've recently started painting crankbaits and use BSI as a top coat. BSI cures at temps over 70 degF, however, in the winter my basement gets cold. Temps are usually in the upper 50s/low 60s. I'm thinking of constructing a heater with halogen lights, but I'm worried about the fire hazard. Is there an alternative clear coat that I could use that is just as durable as BSI, but has a wider range of temps? I've looked at KBS but I'm concerned about the fumes, and would like brush it on if possible. What other choices do I have.

I know I'm probably opening a can of worms here but I need advice on the best clear coat for finishing my baits after they've been painted. I want the paint job I put out to be an equal to what you find at the stores. This seems to be a big secret. I started out using water based paints, and 2 part epoxy as a finish. Then moved on to the different MCUs (DN, Garco, Diamond, etc..) and they just aren't like what you get from large scale manufacturers. What are they using?!? Is it a secret MCU receipe? Is it automotive finish? Oil paints? I've stayed away from oil paints and automotive finish for the health reasons but am open to ideas. Please help!!

First Post and learning a lot from you tackle guys. I don't paint hardbaits but I do paint some small objects that see similar abuse. I was looking at options above and beyond typical 2k automotive clearcoat. I need to be able to spray the clear as film build is key for me. I had recently picked up some Klasskote clear and it sprays great but had a yellow hue to the hardener. Couple questions for you old dogs. Is epoxy clear truly that much harder then 2k automotive clear? Is there any brand of sprayable epoxy clear out there that doesn't yellow as fast? Thanks for any replies I truly appreciate it.

I searched this forum for info on glitter applied to lures and found a lot of good information so this topic may be covered elsewhere (just can find it), but here goes. I have a guy who wants a shiny stripe painted along the lateral lines on some of his lures. I figured on just using iridescent paint to make the stripe. Turns out he wants a glitter stripe using "rainbow" colored glitter over turquoise paint. I've use glitter on a few baits but I don't use it a lot and never for detail stuff like a stripe. I'm thinking of using a stencil for the stripe then removing the stencil before the stripe dries to avoid a sharp edge. Not sure about this at all! I'm guessing someone on TU knows how to put a glitter stripe on and make it look great. I could use a little tutoring on glitter products to use, how to apply them, etc. Hope someone has the time to discuss this. I want to do this right as I like the guy, he's an old-timer who has shown me a lot of good "honeyholes" and offered up a lot of fishing wisdom. Appreciate any help offered.

I've been searching thru all the old solarez threads & decided to call the owner myself. He told me that if I wanted a true matte finish on my crankbaits, that I would need: Solarez Matte Finish Doming Resin Have any of yall used this product, or do I need a different one of the solarez products? I'm currently using D2T or Etex, but I need a matte finish crawdad pattern. Any input or advice is greatly welcomed. Thanks

I'm new to this site but I'm hoping someone here will have experience with this problem. First I want to say the folks here have posted some great information on tackle making and I've learned a lot in a short time...so thanks to all. Anyway, I have been experimenting with MCU as a finish coat on my hand painted hard plastic lures....with mixed results. The product is made by Graco and is recommended by some lure painters on other sites. The issue is the stuff seems to cause the paint to wrinkle on some lures. Two lures from the same batch with the same pattern may have totally different results when dipped. One perfect...one ruined??? I'm painting with Createx Airbrush Colors paint....nothing fancy...no special thinners...just a drop of distilled water when necessary. I dip the lure and hang it on a drying rack. The room is under AC so its about 76 -78 degrees. Can't figure it out but I sure am tired of ruining a pattern that I've worked hard to get right. Any of the veteran painters on this site have any wisdom to share on the subject of MCU clear coating? Thanks again, to everyone here for sharing some really good information.

Hi all, I was watching youtube videos of lure making. On several of them, I saw a rotisserie in use to rotate the lure so clear coat doesn't run. I checked fleabay and found a rotisserie motor for 4 bucks and a couple of dollars shipping. I rigged up a rotisserie that I can clamp my back eye hook onto. I want to tell you what.......No matter how long you have been making lures, if you clear coat them, you need to get a rotisserie. It makes it almost look like you know what you are doing with finishes. Wow, what a difference. The finish goes on thick, thick, thick and levels out to a mirror finish! Is everybody using them already?

Thinking of getting into pouring jigs and was wondering what is the most durable way to finish a jigs paint job and the most durable way to set a weed guard? Thanks in advance Joe

I have been using a fiberglass resin for my clear coat. It is awesome stuff and cures in about 20 minutes or so. It is USC fiberglass resin. I mix it in small batches and do about 6 lures at a time, brushing it on. I happen to have a pic in my phone that might help. Just to the right of the lure, you can see the can and lable. I hope it is ok to put a pic here for this purpose.... Any thoughts, degatives, comments? Tim

Hows it going everybody? Newbie here, and just painted up my first couple spoons. Now i'm just looking for a clear coat for them. Dick Nite clear coat is the front runner now. Any suggestions? Tips? For Spoons. Thanks. spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm spoon 2.htm spoons.htm

I have heard of this Solarez. I am looking to get started in our making and trying to find the cheapest way out on everything that will also produce the best product for the price. I have heard this stuff does really good. So my question to everyone is what exactly is it, how is it applied/used, where to get it, price and how is the product?

Hey guys, I have 32oz. of flex coat v. its the formula thats resistant to uv yellowing. do you guys think this would be ok for my clear coat.

I finally fixed the order problem for you guys! I built a new order page for TackleUndergrounders! No more of the old, "send an email, wait for a response and for me to pack the order and weigh it so I can send you a PayPal invoice, wait for a response, me get the payment, write up the order in the computer, put the shipment into the UPS software, print the label, and ship the order all while you wait again" process... Trust me, I appreciate the hassle it has been for all of you, and I assure it has been no cake-walk here either... Well, it's all fixed, in place, and ready to roll! Now, you simply go to the site, click "Add to Cart" for the items you want, enter your information for PayPal, click "Check Out" and it automatically gives you your approximately 65% discount, figures the shipping (using a flat $10 rate now - I'll eat whatever more it is in order to expedite this process), takes your payment, and sends the order directly to my shipping department! Orders should ship the next business day from now on! Here's the link to the new order page - it's the same as the old link: http://www.dicknite.com/TU_Lander.htm You might want to bookmark it, make it a favorite, or whatever it is called in your browser, because it is not accessible from the main web site. It is only for TackleUnderground members and their friends and families! You are still getting the same price large-scale manufacturers get. It's in the neighborhood of 65% off of retail. The prices listed on the site include the discount, so there are no codes to put in, or hoops to jump through. Since you are going there from TU, I know you are legit! I plan on adding a few things to it in the future, like clicking on each paint color and having it pop up a window with information about it, MSDS sheet downloads, and the like, but for now, this is going to solve the biggest problem we have had - you having to wait for this fat old-guy to catch up enough to get the orders processed manually! I really want to thank you all for your patience over the past several years. You have been more than generous with your understanding and I can't express how much that has meant to me. TackleUndergrounders are the absolute best customers I have! Thanks again, Dick

I am looking to get some brushes for my clear coat. I have looked at the disposable brushes in my area, and they only make them in pretty small widths. Since I am coating larger jigs - 1-4 oz - I want some brushes that are a bit wider. I have had pretty good success in reusing fairly cheap (1.e. ~$2-3) brushes by washing them in alcohol as soon as I am done coating. I want to get some more of these brushes, but I am wondering what would be best for busting bubbles and getting a good clear coat 1- a nice soft bristle 2- a rather stiff bristle I am looking at brushes that have fairly fine bristles, but they have different characteristics. Which would you guys choose? Thanks, Pete