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So I was having some problems with my Envirotex epoxy just recently and I figured I would post what I just found about it. It is probably common knowledge but it saved me from throwing out a good batch of etex. The epoxy I was using on the lures was curing just fine but I had little tiny imperfections (not bubbles) and it didn't appear to be dust. Just some small lumps and voids (probably only noticeable to me when I was scrutinizing it after). I had my etex inside so it was at a good room temp and humidity, but at one point or another it must have been exposed to a bit cooler weather. Well, what I found was some of the resin bottle was crystallizing. This appears to be very common when it's exposed to cold weather. The hardener bottle was still fine. So I though it might be garbage but by heating it up properly, you can liquefy the little crystals and it becomes perfectly usable again! phew. Now I know this is probably common knowledge to most of you, but I was relieved to solve at least that problem with my finish! Here is a good page I found that talks about resin and how to fix it. https://theepoxyexperts.com/coldweathernotice/

A simple, cheap technique to finish lead jigs. Not perfect, but good enough to catch fish. Not quick because each layer of etex requires 12 hours to cure. First, I prime lead jigs with a layer of etex I add another layer of etex mixed with titanium dioxide powder to get a bright white jig. Etex in the curing process, gradually hardens and gets sticky, Depending upon temperature and how much etex is applied, at about 7 hours +++ the etex will be sticky but not come off the jig if you touch it (with your finger or some other object) You can use etex applied to scrap jig for this test. At this point, apply the nail foil, rubbing gently with cloth, and then pull off the cover plastic. The foil is stuck on the jig. For some reasons, I only get about 90% transfer of foil on the jig (not perfect) but this is good enough for me. Wait a couple hours, then add a protective coat of etex. You can also add dots, eyes, stripes, colored etex at this point. Dots or Stripes- I use oil based sharpies (regular sharpies will bleed with etex because they are alcohol based). You can also use gel ink pens with med or thick point. Colored Etex - I mixed neon micas with etex and brush on the jig. Glow powder can also be mixed with etex. Nail foil doesn't come neon. Sources: Art nail transfer foil I get thru aliexpress.com. comes 4 cm x120M (or150M) for $5-$10. This comes out to 1 cents per foot. Comes holographic, solid colors, and transparent. Etex I get at Michaels http://www.michaels.com/envirotex-lite-pour-on-high-gloss-finish/M10178984.html. Get the 40-50% coupons. Horsehair brush I get at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html. I reuse them over and over, clean with rubbing alcohol and stored in jar with an inch of alcohol. Neon Micas I get at tkbtrading https://tkbtrading.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=neon**.Colored mica powders including fluorescent. Used in makeup and soap making. They are powders, suspended not dissolved in etex. This make brushes easy to clean Titanium dioxide get at crafts or sculpture store like Douglas Sturgis. This is the bright white powder. Tips: I mix etex in 2" wide plastic cap which I use over and over. It is important to get exact 1:1 ratio and mix the 2 parts thoroughly. I weight the etex on a super accurate gram scale ... so I can mix as little as a few grams to coat a few jigs. I don't bother to clean the cap, when the etex hardens, I just do a new mix on top. Thanks to Gliders in hardbaits forum, check out Foiling on E-Tex http://www.tackleunderground.com/ommunity/topic/30355-foiling-on-e-tex/. His hardbaits are works of art and show what is possible with this foil technique. I can brush over foil with neon micas to color the foil pink, blue, red, purple, yellow, etc, thin enough for the foil to show thru . Cheap - cost of foil, micas and etex on a lead jigs comes out to less than 10 cents per jigs. If all foil is not sticking, I add another layer of etex and do it again right over. The foil is so thin it doesn't change anything. These jigs are used in 30-100 foot depths low light and murky water conditions, where I believe the holographic flash, neon accents are important. Over 100 feet, glow becomes more important. To get near perfect quality, probably need to polish the lead jig and remove any imperfections, fill any divots. Then add multiple layers of etex. For me the quality is good enough for me, I'm fishing in murky waters and the fish don't care about perfection, I'm bouncing them on the bottom and losing them to snags. .

How's it goin. Etex seams to cure fine on the turner. Been mixing about 6ml, x2 per batch with syringe. 70 degrees 58 humidity Seems to cure fine can't scratch. 3 medium coats every 8 hrs. Createx Autoair paint. Sometimes only let paint dry 12 hrs. Wonder if the 4012 maybe didn't evaporate all the way and made etex soft. But it's hard till it hits the sun. Noticed it yesterday fishing. Could dent with fingernail. Just checked leftover etex in then mixing cup and its rock hard and doesn't get soft in the sun. Something with paint ?Anybody know why that would be ?

For the first time i had isdues with my etex. On pu poured lures, with special groundpaint and standard airbrushpaint, i put on the etex. On the round lures no problems but on the more rectangle lures i had spots with almost no etex. Used my normale turningweel Can hot dry weater be the cause?

Hey guys I got a problem I got 6 wood baits all ready painted.Applied the last 2 coats of etex but it faild.It is not really sticky or tacky but soft enough the i can dent it with my fingernail.Could I possibly just devcon over the etex and have no problems?

Ok I have been trying to make my own baits for a while and i finalyl got a few that work good finally.But i still have a problem that just keeps happening. The etex epoxy keeps covering my eyes that the hooks hang on and the line tie in my bait. then if i try to chisel etc it off it cranks sometimes and the bait kinda looks bad sometimes from it. I love the look the tex gives but really need some help on cpould be doing wrong. I have a spinner and everything. Could I be applying it to thick or? Maybe ishould let it sit some after mixing to let it thicken? any help would be appreciated. I use scotch tape to protect the diving bill would love a better way to do that as well thanks guys in advance

Hi all, I joined the forum a couple days ago. I got interested in making crankbaits about a month ago, and I spend alot of time on the net researching. So far Ive learned alot from this site. I have made a couple plugs, I have not painted any yet as was trying to find the right sealer. I did buy an airbrush and a bunch of createx paint. I have also already built a lure spinner. So in all of my researching I had came to the conclussion to go with envirotex. On the product sheet you get with the etex it recommends temps of 70 degrees or higher. My problem is I dont have a work shop or a garage, and my wife wont let me use this stuff in the house. Has any tried mixing more hardener to the resin to accomodate the cold temps outside? Or does anyone know of any tricks to get this stuff to setup in the cold? Thanks in advance.