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Showing results for tags 'floating'.
Found 7 results
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![20180511_140403[1]](https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/monthly_2019_01/small.1184604613_20180511_1404031.jpg.145226ce25fa947e9d2c0444b7892c4d.jpg)
Spun this one up to see if it would work. Got the idea from an e-book. Tested great. -
QUESTIONS 1. Where do you purchase expandable Poly Styrene 2. What are the preferred materials to make molds out of 3. What is the process 4. What colorants are used to color them 5. Is a top coating required 6. What are material safety handling requirements
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These are Bogbaits Topwater Rats,made from a silicone mold, we added our floating additive to our hard Plastisol to achieve just the right Buoyancy,Custom paint using the Vip Soft Plastic Lure Paint,mixed the paint light to achieve the effect with air brush,we added our Cool solid Black 3d eyes,then we hand dipped the entire rat in a clear hard plastisol to tuff it up,we like to add a 4/0-6/0 widegap hook!!!These are killer on and over any weedbed but are also great in open water when jerked,they actually dart side to side!!! -
I started to pour my top water baits with out bubbles to see how they would act uner water. With a bullet sinker they work very well. They even stand up vertical when left alone. Plastic pours so much nicer without the bubbles. I can not wait to get another mold to pour some different baits. The baits are also almost see through so I can put glitter in the bait. With the bubbles the bait almost has to be a solid color. I also switched back to a microwave intead of the the pot. I found the glass cup heats up and hold the heat better then the pot, easier to clean up after done, and faster to get back to pouring after cleaning the left overs out of the mold. I keep getting dimples in the worm, I found that I was pushing to hard when putting the plastic in the mold, as I pushed the air would try to get out, but it also would be pushed into the last cavity I just filled. Live and learn, each cavity should only have one air vent. Mudd Butt Baits
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I just cut finished worms in half, got them to go back in the mold, not easy with the popper in the middle. Then poured the green in, I was reading that some baits with skirts are plastic welded? It that simply just heating the two ends and holding them together? I would like to just use to pots, two colors and two injectors, but how do I know how much to put in the first pass? Do I just put marks on the rod? Thanks
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Here is the finished worm, I found that I have to keep the temp a little higher with the bubbles in the plastic. I also have to put down pressure on the injectoer after the cavity fills, about 5 seconds in enough, The yellow turned out nice, but it picks up dirt really easy. I will add glitter the next time round. The worm still has good action and it still plenty strong. I bought a $40 Presto fry daddy, I think that is what it is called. It has the heat dial and is almost the right size for pouring 40-150 baits at a time. I put the lid on to get the plastic up to temp and in bewtween pouring, I did put the bubbles in before heating and that was alot better due to the hot air did not carry the bubbles up and every where. I then put a 2x4 under the back legs to tip it so I could draw the plastic out. Beats paying a few hundo for one that says it is for fishing baits. If you want any of these just let me know.
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I am psyched! Not only because it worked, but because for once, I think I can offer something of value to the forum! I have been reading about soft plastic not floating very well. I have been working on frogs, and yep, they float, but barely and I haven't rigged them yet. I am sure with the addition of a hook, it would pull them right under. I don't like working with micro balloons, and from everything I read, they don't work that well anyway. I spent all day playing, experimenting and pouring frogs. I finely hit on something that really did work. On the shelf, I have thousands of beads from making spinners. Amongst them were some 8mm wooden beads (of course with holes through them. I put a little blob of epoxy over the hole on each end to trap the air inside. I then poured a frog. Just as the plastic got a little thicker, I inserted a bead just behind the shoulder of the frog. It is back far enough to allow for the hook shank and up far enough to allow for the hook through the tail area for a Texas rig. Between the buoyancy of the wood, and the trapped air bubble, they float really nice. Even when pushed to the bottom of the sink, they pop right back up to the surface. With the addition of the hook, I think it will set the head a little above the tail in just the perfect position. I think this is going to work out! Tim
