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Showing results for tags 'jig'.
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Hello, I am new to TU and new to lure making. I am 18 and pouring is not an option for me due to financial constraints so I have been buying unpainted jigs from fishingskirts. com and cadman and powder painting them. Its quite fun and I hope to be able to pour them myself eventually. Anyways, I wanted to show off these modified worm head jigs and see what you guys think. I tie some thread and coat it with epoxy on the upper part of the baitkeeper to allow me to tie skirts to it and not have them slide down, and still have a bait keeper that works. It really creates a nice super small finesse jig. If you want you can drill a hole in the head with an 1/8” drill bit and add a weedguard. These are 1/8 oz on a 1/0 Mustad #32786. These are an awesome smallmouth presentation. Does anyone else make ned rig style skirted jigs?
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Hey guys, If you're interested in a new jig tying channel, I just dropped my first video today. I tie up a Brown-Copper Flash Hybrid-Z jig with rabbit zonker trailers. Check it, love your support. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88zQezUmrfk
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I’m using Gorilla Super Glue Gel (have also tried locktite gel)... seems like every other head turns out like this because the tiniest bit of gel squeezes out around the weedguard. Is this just a case of “tough luck use less glue” or is there a super glue (gel or otherwise) that truly dries clear/leaves no hazy residue?
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Hello to everyone on this forum. I was trying to make a balsa lure that it wobbles when sinking, and on retrieving you can twitch it. I have some experience in making balsa twitch lures for trout, but I can't manage to make jig that wobble when sinks. I'm not sure that I explained correctly, it is like Gachi Jig of Samongachi - Japanese lure maker. Here is a YouTube link of this lure in action: I appreciate any ideas and help. Vladan from Serbia.
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This is my first post. I've been browsing around for quite some time and I felt like it was time to give back to the community who helped get me started in soft bait making. After much trial and error I have been wanting to put out some info about 3D printed molds, First, you don't need a super high tech printer to make a good bait mold. The printer I started with was less than $170. Most CAD software worth having can be had for FREE to a hobbyist( I recommend Autodesk Fusion 360). With that being said, most frustration for me has come in the form of learning to design in a virtual space. If you can do that you have it licked. If you are new to CAD, youtube is a wealth of info but I promise YOU CAN LEARN!!!! On to the details: (Steam-lined) #1.Printing open pour molds is surprisingly easy. PLA is very capable of holding up to the rigors of pouring softbaits. Settings that seem to work well for me are 1.4 mm wall thickness with at least 20% infill. Perhaps printed molds have a shelf life however with over 125 documented pulls on my double cavity, open pour, chunk mold I think for personal use it more than does the job ( I have the file stored to print a new mold if needed, which takes roughly 2.5 hr print time). #2 If you want to make a custom mold for yourself the cost to quality cant be beat. #3 I have found injection molds I printed to be less than stellar. I have had more luck designing a 2 piece mold in two sections and the making a silicone mold of each side, then injecting. With this process it allows you to have a mother mold which you can reproduce as many times as you would like. #4 Sometime printing a actual model and then making a silicone mold is a good option #5 If you don't own a 3D printer their are plenty of 3rd parties that can print you design at reasonable prices I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Attached Pics are my chunk mold with a printed chunk that I made silicone molds off of as well as a two piece mold with masters
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Hi All, My first post here. Is there a foil holographic tape out there? I can level a foil duct tape pretty well onto an 8 oz jig, but not so much for the holographic tape that is vinyl. Any tips for leveling a vinyl tape?
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Surely I'm not the first one to think of this. I am new to this site and to lure making in general, and just recently started building bass jigs from scratch and realized I had everything I needed except a skirting tool. So I came up with this simple solution with an ink pen. Used a piece of copper wire to pull the silicone tabs through the pen.
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Curious to know if any of you jig makers sand the lead heads before powder painting them? If so, what do you guys use to sand them? I have been hand sanding mine using fine (400) grit sand paper but I wish there was an easier/quicker option? Possibly a dremel with sanding bit?! Interested in hearing from the more advanced/experienced crafters. Thanks in advance!
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Hey all, I just bought ten 3/4oz. Unpainted jig heads. And never thought about how I would (powder)paint them without melting or getting paint on the weed guards. I've heard wrapping tin foil around the weed guards has worked for people. was also curious how to go about baking the heads in oven for curing process after they are painted without affecting the weed guards. Is there a home remedy or will I need to order some kind of heat resistant tubing to put over the guards? Also I have 1/8" diameter FG30 weed guards on hand but the 3/4oz jig heads are bigger (not sure on diameter). Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
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I am looking for a flipping jig head with a horizontal line tie like below. The lead head appears to encapsulate the line tie, has a weight forward design and is a little wider than some jigs you find. I just want the jig head, no weedguard, unpainted, no skirt, with a Gamakatsu hook. 1/8" hole for weedguard is fine. 5/16oz and 1/2 oz are preferred weights with corresponding hook sizes 3/0 - 5/0 regular round bend Gamakatsu Hook. Where can I find this? I'd love to find a place or person who makes custom jig heads I can order in bulk but no luck so far. Don't want to pour my own heads, just want to paint, add weedguard and skirt.
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I am looking for a flipping jig head with a horizontal line tie like below. Just the jig head, no weedguard, unpainted, no skirt, with a Gamakatsu hook. 1/8" hole for weedguard is fine. 5/16oz and 1/2 oz are preferred weights with corresponding hook sizes 3/0 - 5/0 regular round bend Gamakatsu Hook Where can I find this? I'd love to find a place or person who makes custom jig heads I can order in bulk but no luck so far. Don't want to pour my own heads, just want to paint, add weedguard and skirt.
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Does anyone know if there any swim jig molds available on the market other than the Do-it bullet jig and swim jig molds? Any help is appreciated thank you
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Starting point for discussion: We will start by using Wheel Weights to increase hardness. Many of us use them as a source of Antimony and they are either free or cheaper than pure lead. lets say we are molding 3/4 oz gigs and larger. What % of WW's do you recommend adding and why? What are Pros and Cons associated with increasing the hardness of lead. Fluxing Mold fill Prone to sticking in mold Mold flash Temperature of lead mixture Harder end product Powder coating Melt Temp Lead = 621 F Antimony = 1,167 F TIn = 449 F
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http://www.anglerscenter.com/gamefishing-accessories/terminal-tackle/owner-ultrahead-saltwater-bullet-jig-head/ I've been looking for this mold and I have no idea if they even make it or something similar.
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Hey guys, I'm fairly new to this forum and i'm having an issue with my powder coating. I do it for myself and have managed in the past, however this time around the color isn't cooperating. I use the Pro-Tech powder paint by CSI. It is older - i think i've had it for 2-4 years. Will age affect this? The powder seems fine. When i heat the jig head and dip in the powder, some of them don't take the powder well - looking like moss on a rock or cracked. The ones that do look decent, when baked in my toaster oven all are jacked up. My main two colors (green pumpkin & watermelon) look like the color they should before baked, and after baking they look the same this year - no difference in color. It also appears that the black powder paint is nearly baking off. any suggestions would be great appreciated.
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I am looking to find a mold for a weedless wire tube jig that is very popular on a local river for small mouth. I have found several molds which looks correct except none of them seem to have a wire included. Here is the mold that I believe is similar http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Tube-Skirt-Jig-Molds-P213.aspx Anyone know of any do-it molds that would work? or will I have to modify one of the basic tube jig head molds? If that's the case any tips on how to make this viable? Appreciate any responses and tips.
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BITES BACK JIG/SPOON COMBO WITH IRRIDESCENT MYLAR SKIRT
mrbitesback posted a gallery image in Best Wire Bait
THE LINE ATTACHES DIRECTLY TO THE WEEDLESS SPRING HOOK. THE SPOON IS FREE TO WOBBLE ERRATICALLY ON THE WIRE. BECAUSE OF THIS FEATURE THE FISHERMAN CAN STAY IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE LURE AT ALL TIMES AND NEVER HAS TO FISH WITH SLACK LINE. IN THE LOADED CONDITION THE LURE HAS A SMALL PROFILE BUT WHEN TRIGGERED IN THE MOUTH OF THE FISH THE HOOK. DEPLOYS INTO A WIDE "FISH HOOKING ARAY". THE HOOK STANDS UP LIKE A COBRA READY TO STRIKE. ADDING A TRAILER ONLY MAKES THE LURE BETTER !! -
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I am looking for an equivalent for the Eagle Claw 410 60 degree O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook but in a lighter guage wire. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ron
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I am looking for an equivalent for the Eagle Claw 410 60 degree O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook but in a lighter guage wire. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ron