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Showing results for tags 'paint'.
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I am painting a bluegill crank bait and was wondering if i can paint the fish on the primed and sealed wood, do a coat of polyurethane, then do some detail work with acrylic paints ON TOP of the first polyurethane coat and then give another coat or two of polyurethane. Im worried the paint wont stick though... any ideas or suggestions? also i was thinking id use window screen as a stencil to make the scale patters with some gold paint. thanks for any help! john
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I use an old kitchen knife I found for cutting bait. It's stainless, but the salt water keeps rusting it. I decided to powder coat it, and it turned out pretty good. While I was at it, I took a rusted spoon I had found in the water, cleaned it up and powder coated it white. I wanted a red stripe, but wasn't sure how to make a nice clean one. What I ended up doing was brushing some powder coat onto the glue side of a piece of scotch tape. After baking the white background to set it, I heated the spoon a little more over a heat gun, then laid the tape glue side down on the spoon. It melted right onto the spoon! Nice way to get a clean pattern onto a base coat.
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Hello all I have been dabbling into powder painting recently and have come up stumped on how some of these designs are created. I’ve stumbled my way through trial and error for most designs such as dots, eyes, clears so on so forth but some of the finer designs such as swirls and stripes have me stumped any advice? I’ll attach some pictures of others work that ive seen
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Hey everyone, i bought some of the boss illusion powder paint and silver vein bass and am really unsure how to use it. An old thread on here mentioned their instructions didn’t replicate their results- and that reaching out to them didn’t appear to be helpful either. Another thread failed to mention any tips on how to consistently get the effect. Anyone have very detailed instructions on how to do this correctly consistently? Thanks for any tips!
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Curious to know if any of you jig makers sand the lead heads before powder painting them? If so, what do you guys use to sand them? I have been hand sanding mine using fine (400) grit sand paper but I wish there was an easier/quicker option? Possibly a dremel with sanding bit?! Interested in hearing from the more advanced/experienced crafters. Thanks in advance!
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Hey all, I just bought ten 3/4oz. Unpainted jig heads. And never thought about how I would (powder)paint them without melting or getting paint on the weed guards. I've heard wrapping tin foil around the weed guards has worked for people. was also curious how to go about baking the heads in oven for curing process after they are painted without affecting the weed guards. Is there a home remedy or will I need to order some kind of heat resistant tubing to put over the guards? Also I have 1/8" diameter FG30 weed guards on hand but the 3/4oz jig heads are bigger (not sure on diameter). Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
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Hey everyone, Paul Brown Lures are extremely effective hear on the Texas Coast. Aside from being well made, I think a big reason for their effectiveness is the large eye that is painted on the sides of each lure. I have attached a picture of one of the lures for reference. It looks as though the eyes are painted, as they clearly are not the typical adhesive eyes found on other lures. They protrude from the sides of the lure, and almost feel as though they are just globs of some kind of paint. My question is, has anyone tried to replicate this type of eye and had success? I'm wondering what kind of paint was used to create this. Any information you folks have would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Opening a door and windows and blowing a fan provides haphazard ventilation at best. Building a spray booth is fast and cheap. A small plastic bin makes a great paint booth. Cut out the bottom and attach a small window fan. By using cardboard or plastic board joined with duct tape, you can duct the fumes away from you. At first, I just vented them to the floor. Now I vent them out the window. If you have a vented bathroom fan, the process is even simpler. A few modifications to make it more functional: Glue strips of swim noodles cut in half to the top. Plunge cut slots with an exacto knife and mark them. Now you have a place to put your lure holders and lures. This really helps with production painting. Another strip or two of noodle material can hold your scale masking materials. Roll them onto spindles and insert them into the foam. A media and airbrush cleaner can be made out of an old plastic coffee container with a few paper towels in it. Link it to your fan with a piece of vacuum hose. Glue a sheet of craft foam on the end of the vacuum hose and cover part of your fan with it. This causes enough vacuum to hold it in place and to vent fumes. You might as well glue a holder for your airbrush on there as well. and a hook for holding your cleaning brushes. And while you are at it, why not stick your scissors, knife etc into the foam to keep them handy.
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Is there paint that are not water based and that can be used with an air brush, I realize I would have to wear a respirator mask Thanks Gino
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I have been painting baits for a while now on a small scale using a Pasche Talon (gravity fed) with water based createx paints. I want to start painting lots of baits the same color patterns to sell them. I've noticed some videos online of people doing this and oftentimes the paint container is attached the the bottom of the airbrush. What is the best setup for this? I can definitely see the advantage of not having to constantly put drops of paint in the hopper. Any recommendations on equipment for somone wanting to go from a hobbyist to start painting large scale?
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I've gotten into custom painting crankbaits and trying to sell them recently. I have had no issues selling them but my question is, how are so many people able to sell custom painted baits at $10 or $15 per bait? It takes me a couple hours to paint one color pattern, which makes $10 per bait hardly worth it, but with so many people offering this price there has to be a way to speed this up. What can I do to speed this up? I've been trying to paint multiple baits at a time but if someone sends me a single bait to paint, it still takes a couple hours to prime and paint. Are people using multiple airbrushes, do they know a better way than me to clean the gun between colors, will I get faster as I gain experience, what's the secret?? Seems that right now cleaning the gun between colors is what takes up the majority of my time. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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Hello all, Just started selling my custom painted cranks and I have a question. Should I be asking for payment before I start on a custom order? I'd hate to paint a handful of baits a certain way and then have that person not pay.... Thoughts?
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I have been painting crankbaits and clear coating them with devcon 2 part epoxy and some with Garco/DNS81 MCU's. I have a couple of cranks where the finish didn't turn out so well. My question is, how do I remove this finish so that I can re-paint the bait? Any tricks? Or should I just rough it up, prime, paint, and seal again? The devcon seems like it will be especially difficult to remove as it seems to form an egg shell type coating around the bait., whereas the MCU's seem to almost soak into the paint.
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I've been painting my own crankbaits using Createx Paint (transparent white as primer coat) and DN-S81 as a clear coat and have noticed that as I'm fishing them and as the finish chips off from hit rocks or whatever that the original color show through. What I mean is the primer coat I put on and all comes off as the finish but the original color does not. How do I solve this? Should I clear coat after I prime the bait? Is there a way to completely remove the original color? Thanks for the help! What a great site.
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I have been looking for a fluorescent white paint. Createx is what I usually use. Any recommendations or links?
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I Need some help with Wiggle Wart eyes. Is there a stencil out there that people are using? I did manage to get one out of 4 attempts. But that was just a matter of dotting the middle of the eye. I'm trying to find the correct hole sizes but my attempts at making something perfectly round and pliable enough to bend around the blank hasn't been productive. Thanks Ron
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I have been having this problem with my black and white Pro-Tec powder paint. I can't seem to keep it from having volcanos. Its not even rising it just shoots up out of the cup. I have tried brown paper bag, 20# copy paper, and now the tyrex or what ever from shipping envelopes. Nothing seems to work with those two colors. My orange, pink, purple, and green pumpkin all work perfect with the brown paper bag. I really need to get these colors working for me. I glued two of the tyrex shipping envelopes together last night and I am going to see if it works on my lunch break. Wish me luck!
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Hi all Is there any Europe based shop that sells Spike it products? I am most interested in their airbrush friendly paints. I know that their water based "colure" paint is safe to buy directly from their website, and would go for it, but it does require an extra "clear coat" to seal it. And considering the size and shape of the baits I'm trying to paint this is practically impossible, so I'd like to get a paint that stays on the lure without the extra dipping. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
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Hey guys, So I have this new glider that guys are going nuts for and ive switched to plastic and its pretty much ready to be produced in quantity. Unlike my previous models that were wood. I opted to go hard plastic so I can produce more to sell. My only problem is that painting is seriously kicking my butt. Im not quite sure what the issue is. I use plastic resin from a company called fabricast 50 from specialty resins. Now the main problem im assuming is the bonding. But it only really occurs on the back and belly of the bait. So thats no good when it comes to epoxying. It's almost like something is coming through the bait which I thought was some sort of contamination. But I use wax and grease remover prior to priming. Is it the spray bomb primer? Should I use a adhesive spray instead?
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I've made a decent amount of plugs and I've decided it's time to get some paint in order to paint these guys. However I'm sort of lost as to what colors I should get. In your opinion what are say 10 or 12 essential colors when painting lures? And what brands do you guys reccomend? Thanks for the help!
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I have been painting crankbaits the old fashioned way and am thinking about upgrading to an airbrush. I have some questions, though, before I buy one. It's a little confusing, since I don't know anything about them. At this point I wouldn't be using it all that frequently, so I would like to get something that is affordable, and I can upgrade in the future if I want to. Any questions you can answer would be appreciated. Purchasing Where can I get a good airbrush for a beginner? What's a good brand/model? What size compressor do I need? Where can I get a compressor at a good price? I've seen some kits that use canned propellants. Are those any good? How long does one can last? Features Do any of these have a significant effect on the brush's usefulness for painting crankbaits? -Single action vs double action? -Internal mix vs external mix? -Gravity feed vs bottom feed? -Tip size? --Anything else that I may be unaware of?
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I'm new to painting my own lures using a spray pen. I was wondering what kind of paint is most popular and what are the advantages and downfalls. I have read a lot of differing opinions and wanted to get the down low from an experienced source.
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Hey guys, I'm fairly new to this forum and i'm having an issue with my powder coating. I do it for myself and have managed in the past, however this time around the color isn't cooperating. I use the Pro-Tech powder paint by CSI. It is older - i think i've had it for 2-4 years. Will age affect this? The powder seems fine. When i heat the jig head and dip in the powder, some of them don't take the powder well - looking like moss on a rock or cracked. The ones that do look decent, when baked in my toaster oven all are jacked up. My main two colors (green pumpkin & watermelon) look like the color they should before baked, and after baking they look the same this year - no difference in color. It also appears that the black powder paint is nearly baking off. any suggestions would be great appreciated.
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Hi everyone. Is there anyone in the MA or RI area that knows of a store that I can walk into to get quality water based airbrush paints? I am looking for Createx, Wicked, Life Tones ( hydro mist ) or Com-Art. I have been buying them on line and I have not seen them in any stores. If I want to buy a set its not bad, but to buy a single 2 oz bottle of a special color costs about 7 bucks !!! That's crazy!!! If anyone can tell me about a local store, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Jay
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I searched for spoons, and found nothing. Is nobody making them in here? I made about 8 so far, and when putting the split rings in the holes, discovered a real problem. After sitting for almost 30 hours, the primer under them paint was still soft. When I tried to put the split ring in, it peeled back the pant and ruined the finish. Some, I had painted and then clear coated with clear rattle can, and a couple I had coated with fiberglass resin. The fiberglass seemed to be a problem right off the bat, so I stopped doing that. Here is what I am working on..... (I hope this belongs in the hard bait category, but I couldn't find anything else that fit)
