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what is the most affordable way to seal balsa blanks. I know super glue etc however looking for a dip and hang function

Wassup Guys!!! Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Got a new job and had a little girl a few years ago so time has not been spent in the shop. I recently got back out and building again so I am trying to see what the latest is on the all purpose, do it all, dippable, one coat, dries rock hard in 5 min no turner needed brilliant UV stable top coat. OK now that that is out of my system... I am fully aware that the best finish is purely subjective and probably never going to be found. Thus, I am looking to see whats the latest on top coats. From what i can dig up its basically still the same from 3 years ago... Epoxy, DN/MCU or in some cases concrete sealer. Well I have tried DN 4 times and never could get it to last even with utilizing all the bloxygen methods so I am kinda fed up with that stuff. Epoxy even decuopages have all cracked and failed over time and so it will kill me to finish a bait knowing it only has a few years to live. My go to 3 years ago was 2 part auto clear but now with California restrictions on VOC I cannot get the good stuff anymore! I went goodies shopping a last week and bought 2 concrete sealers to test. One is lacquer based and one is Acrylic xylene based. From my tests they both react to water based paints but very differently. The acrylic one is temperamental and if you do a good heat treat and put the createx top coat on it will be ok, but the lacquer is opposite if you use the top coat it tends to crack and react more. Both seem to produce a very hard finish but it seems both are prone to worm burn. Other than DN, Epoxies and Auto clear what finishes are not susceptible to worm burn? I still have my lure turner I can go back to epoxy if I have to but I know there is something I can buy in CA that is a better option. Also, I never liked water based finishes because they all seemed to turn white and soft if there is prolonged water exposure like leaving them on rain soaked deck. Maybe putting a final layer of polycrylic over a concrete sealer may work for the worm burn though? Advise and suggestions welcome...actually I am begging for them! Cheers, Matt

I have been using a fiberglass resin for my clear coat. It is awesome stuff and cures in about 20 minutes or so. It is USC fiberglass resin. I mix it in small batches and do about 6 lures at a time, brushing it on. I happen to have a pic in my phone that might help. Just to the right of the lure, you can see the can and lable. I hope it is ok to put a pic here for this purpose.... Any thoughts, degatives, comments? Tim