Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'swimbait'.
-
-
Sinking swimbait. Three sections weighted to fall horizontal at just under a foot a second. I broke down and used PVC for this one and carved some basic anatomy. Designed a slight upcurve from the nose to operculum to create some minor lift on retrieve to help control bait for working over deeper weed beds. Used a lot of mica powders to get some chromatic changes. The blue, rose, pinks are mica dry brushed and rubbed over gray and metallic silver. Orange, brown, golds of the throat are mica powders also and for good measure rubbed in some green along the dorsal. -
While my Trout spoon is drying, I'll go on with my other design, weedless swimbait. Weedless in a sence hooks are on the backside, kind of what you'd do with your soft baits. Hooks are attached to line, which runs along the backside of the bait, kept in place with small bits of silicone. Trying to get that perfectly balanced, three section swimbait. This is a small design, only 10cm (4") long, so it's going to be nitty pitty operation to get this swim right. But if I get this right, it's going to be one of the best hard baits I know. Cast, wait for it to slowly sink to bottom, then walk it slow or fast. You can get this where the big fish are, very close to bottom, with greatly reduced risk of getting it stuck on weeds etc and losing it for good. Although, I have to say, this might end up to be an epic fail... Carved and ready for the next steps After making the channel for the wire and hooks to attatch, and sealing the bait. Updating this as often as I get something done but it's probably going to be a slow project. Cheers, Jarmo from O'baits
-
Hello everyone, this is my first post on here, so I hope it goes well. I've started getting more into carving baits, and I have a few questions for those of you with experience. First off, I'd like to say that I truly admire some of the great talent that I've seen on this website! I hope to get better and improve my baits, and hopefully you guys can help me out. I've designed two lures in CAD already, and they have gone well so far. The first bait is a small ~5-6" swimbait. The second is a huge trout swimbait. As a newbie, I don't know how to weight the lures properly (where to place the weights, and what weights to even use), as well as where to place a joint for the most effective swimming action. Any insight on those two would be greatly appreciated. My large trout lure has unfortunately gotten damaged, from it dropping onto concrete floor. Part of the tail has broken off, so I epoxied it back on. I am wondering if this will be strong enough. Should I have done something different? Also, how thin do you typically carve the fins? I'm using basswood, and I don't want to make them so thin that they're too weak to stay intact (like the tail). I've left the other fins around 1/4" thick, am I able to make them smaller without issue? My other question is about carving the details (gills, fins, scales). I've tried just carving grooves with a knife, but I haven't been able to get the results I'm looking for. I've ordered a Flexcut detail carving kit, and I was wondering if this is the type of tools you guys use for your detailing. Below are pics of the trout. Thanks in advance for anyone willing to respond!
-
Has anyone poured this mold yet? Really like the look and concept but the tail seems pretty thick. Would like an opinion on the swimming action.
-
A prototype segmented bait. It has two hinges but four pivot points. The motion is fairly fluid like. It was made to test and not for finishing but I did it anyway. I'll make a cleaner one in the near future. I've posted a video of the build here. -
A roach pattern found only in Europe and Asia. It has a lateral rattle in it. -
Fashioned loosely after a goa'uld symbiote as seen on the scifi show Stargate SG-1. Just for fun. -
My first attempt at making a crankbait. -
Shallow diver -
.jpg.7e8a57b68336604a9af303ab047a9737.jpg)
I often see these coughed up by bass that I catch. Deep diver -
This bait has a rattle that vibrates from side to side. -
Hey guys i am new on here and new to lure building and painting. I painted my first bait yesterday and it was a jointed swim bait. i made a lure turner but i dont think it will work for this bait. I will include a picture of the lure. Does anyone know how i should topcoat this lure?
-
Alright guys, I Need all of your help! Does anyone know how to Custom paint a Deps Slide Swimmer 250? I have never tried to paint one and l Really want to learn. Any tips would be very helpful! Thanks Guys, Brad
-
I recently have been trying my hand at shooting swimbaits. So far, its going okay. I noticed my mold allows for eyes to be placed on the soft plastic after it has dried and this is not something I've ever messed with as a fisherman in general. What are some of your thoughts on using lure eyes for swimbaits/flukes/creatures? Is there a 'best practice'? Does it really help? How durable will they be? Do you prefer adhesive or glue? Do you clear coat your bait once you've finished? Any other thoughts in general in this arena? Regards, Bronzeback Cowboy
-
6.25” paddle tail -
Just thought I would post a video about how I do my swimbait. I did leave some of the more boring details out but if you contact me I will be happy to help .
- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- dave’s lures
- swimbait
- (and 2 more)
-
Hey everyone, I recently bought a top injection mold from Basstackle and have been shooting with Bait Junkies, now Bait Plastics' hard formula. I cannot for the life of me get a bait to shoot without there being air bubbles at the top/head of the bait. It's infuriating! I haven't violently stirred the plastisol or sucked up any air while pulling plastisol into the injector, but it happens nearly every time I inject. The reason I know I'm not doing this is because I have another, side inject mold from a different company that shoot perfectly every time. I've tried purging the injector prior to shooting and that didn't work. Anyone have another idea on how to fix this issue? Is it the mold sprue that is the problem. I can't help but notice that the side injection mold that shoots perfectly has a wide sprue opening where it meets the body of the lure, whereas the Basstackle top inject mold has a very narrow sprue-body connection. Could air be getting trapped at that choke point and not be allowed to escape? Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and help.
-
Just shot a little batch of these guys. Royal Blue and Yellow Gold glitter. Green pumpkin base. -
Hey everyone, I recently got a new mold where the sprue hole is pretty narrow...too narrow for my current injector that I purchased from Do-It to fit in. As I don't want to by a new injector for this new mold, I was wondering if anyone has found some sort of sprue adapter piece that would allow me to use my current injector, but funnel the plastisol into the narrower sprue hole? Any information you have regarding this would be greatly appreciated.
-
8.75" multi-joint Keeper Trout swimbait with assist hook hanger in the tail and an additional line tie on the chin. 100% hand carved out of a single block of wood using only a utility knife, a handsaw, and sandpaper. Base colors are spray painted with the detailing and highlights hand-applied using acrylic. This bait took over a year to finish, but it swims like a champ and has a very special place in my tackle box. -
Any one here have info on unpainted swimbait blanks? 1 or 2 joints.
-
Made a swim bait master that I really like, but wanted to see if you guys would think it will work. I want to rig it weedless on a owner beast 10/0. Do you think this would work? What brand of plastisol do you guys recommend for big swimbaits like these?
-
Hey folks, I have been scouring the internet trying to find a way to decently dye the tails of my paddle tails. My main concern is not being able to effectively dye dark colored lures and make them have a nice chartreuse paddle tail. I have tried Spike It which works very nicely for light colored lures. I have also tried K. Wigglers, which does indeed dye dark lures chartreuse, as they use some sort of silicone rubber, but I get terrible bubbles trapped in the dye, and the lure just looks bad. Had anyone had success with other ways of dyeing their tails? Spike It has that spray paint stuff, but they don't make it in a bright chartreuse color. Would airbrushing be the way to go? Thanks in advance for your help. -Taylor
-
Would it be possible to make a mold of a Huddleston and pour new tails for them. the baits work great but pike bite the tails off all the time getting sick or replacing them all the time at 25 dollars a piece.
