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Hello all, I'm looking for a heavy 90 degree jig hook that goes down to a size #4 or even a #6. What I have in mind is a small ballhead jig that would appeal to bass or even a big trout wanting small forage. The hook would need enough strength to not bend out during a fight with 8 or 10 lb line. I've searched a lot on this site and the general consensus points to the Mustad 32833 2X strong steelhead hook. While I agree that it's a dandy hook, I'd love to be able to find something similar that doesn't have the short eye length. Something that would work with minimal modification with most 90 degree jig molds. Only other idea I have is the Mustad 32500 skipjack hook. Seems like this hook can be found in #4 and #6 sizes and is a tad stronger than other hooks in that size range. It's still not as strong as the 32833, which is unfortunate. Does anyone know of any other hooks that fit the bill? Thank you!

Used a #5 Colorado blade for the blade and a 1/4 oz egg sinker. This was an interesting build as I had MULTIPLE fails on this. Getting the alignment and spacing was key, if the line tie was too high it just wouldn't shake. Also it hated a trailer and skirt but a trailer or skirt alone and it did fine. All in all a fun build, just have to do the video for my channel now.

Hi guys. Was wondering if I could use the eagle claw 2190 hooks with my Gary Yamamoto swim jig mold as a cheaper alternative to the Gamakatsu 474 v eye hook? Any wire gauge difference between the two? Would there be enough shank to accommodate the bait keeper lead before the bend? Any one tried this yet . pros and cons Any ideas about hook set ratio change from the bent shank hook section. In pics they look relatively close other than the bend? Thanks to all for any info and feed back. Canuck

Hello all. I have been loosing a lot of ss ball bearing swivels and blades off the upper arm of my spinner baits lately. I am using .035 and .o40 wire frames . I use needle nose pliers to turn the end loop and try to keep a neet round profile to the loop.I have tried having the end of wire finnish just touching directly behind the main arm wire and also tried just slightly to the side of the main arm wire to close off and eliminating any room for the swivel or the split ring to pass while in use. I have tried swivels with fine snap rings on each end and swivels with large hole for the wire with one snap ring connecting to blade . Unfortunately there has still been the odd loss of swivel and blade. I use american quality ball bearings that run approximately $1 each and I follow the size chart for blade size and combos but the frustration of haveing them drop off or comming off during a strike is getting to me. I have contemplated trying to do a full coil wrap like a snap ring but that eliminates the large hole swivel style that I prefer. I have heard about the over wire hook type bend closure style but dont really want to sacrafice the wire length to attain it. I have even concidered varnishing or glueing the wire overlap to seal the gap to prevent any further losses. Leader crimp sleaves with a slight design change to the end loop would work , but still have a loss of arm wire length. Any sugestions? Thanks in advance for any wisdom or knowledge that you may generously share. Cheers

Hello fellow tackle makers. Over the past few years I have been fortunate to tap into the tackle making wisdom of the membership with great succes. I just recently found my self stumped unable to match the hatch so to speak in a situation fishing for pike and bass in a tourney with unusually hard constant down pour . The kind that the rain actually bounces back off the water and deflects back up 3 or four inches. It was a dark day with a north wind causeing a constant chop across the surface of this clear water ontario lake. A cold front had just rolled in the night before dropping the temperature from 24C to 14C day time highs. The lake water was much warmer than the cold rain so it caused a fog to start forming as it mixed with the surface water. These climate and weather variables caused me to really challenge what I have learned about adapting to different conditions while fishing spinnerbaits. I tried many head sizes and blade configurations, skirt and trailer combos with little to no success. I thought that the noise of the rain probably nullified the blade vibration somewhat so flash and speed of retreave would be more a factor. I tried 3/8 1/2 5/8 and even 3/4 oz heads to be able to cast in the wind and get the bait down to deeper fish. I tried changing the skirts from 66 strand to 44 to no skirt, even just a bare grub body. I used natural colour three /two colour single colour silicone skirt patterns. Blade configuration from double willow to combos with colorado willow indiana willow single hammered finishes in gold brass silver plated . You get the picture . At one point I had fourty different baits on the floor of the casting deck . At some point I felt ready to throw the whole tackle selection overboard at them,I mean rods and all!!!.. After this long story I was hopeing to get some feed back as to what you may have tried in this situation including using something else as a lure. I did try a few other technics but really would like your thoughts on modifications or choices that you may use with spinnerbaits that I could use in future under similar conditions. Even with this frustrating day my team was able to finish third just one lb behind the winners. Thanks again for any feed back,although a little bit different a question I feel this is the right forum to ask it. Sorry if you dont agree. Cheers.

Does anyone know if there is anyone Who might still make a sauger jig mold in 3/4oz and 1oz ? I hope that is the right question to ask ...